some shots i took today, i played around with my camera and pets
then i went into the woods and tried to get pics that show nature taking over modern things such as cinderblock
critique please
some shots i took today, i played around with my camera and pets
critique please
Those two are my favorite but they would look way better if they were in focus. I have problems with this too cause I just have a digital camera with auto-focus and auto-closeup and it's not always easy to get the balance you want, I think I've taken maybe one serious photograph with it that has been focused the way I want it to be.
Question: I have a Fujifilm S700 and I'm looking for the best way to take indoor pictures of the boards I make for ad purposes. Just your basic top/bottom shots etc. I've tried different lighting, flash, no flash. What would be the best way to capture them so that they are clear with no flash glare. Is it all lighting? What kind of background should I use. I've had some success outdoors but I'm looking for more professional looking stuff indoors. Help?
If you want to take clear, detailed product shots then you'll want to use a tripod and a shutter release cable or remote (this is a remote control or button on the end of a cable that sets off the shutter and eliminates camera shake from pressing down the button on the camera). You'll want to set the camera to use its lowest iso setting and the f-stop to 11 or so, focus it on the subject, and shoot.
Also, closer does not mean sharper. Most lenses have a 1-4 foot minimum focusing distance. Stand back and zoom in.
As far as lighting, just get 2 desk lamps with soft 100 watt bulbs and put them on either side of the board.
If all goes well, you'll get crazy sharp pictures like this:
Edit: looked up your camera. Use a tripod if you've got one, otherwise just set the camera on a table or chair or whatever. Put it on aperture-priority mode at f/11, manually focus, set it to iso 64 and use the self-timer (you get the same effect as a shutter release cable). Don't forget to set the white balance to the appropriate setting. You should get gorgeous pictures.
If you want to take clear, detailed product shots then you'll want to use a tripod and a shutter release cable or remote (this is a remote control or button on the end of a cable that sets off the shutter and eliminates camera shake from pressing down the button on the camera). You'll want to set the camera to use its lowest iso setting and the f-stop to 11 or so, focus it on the subject, and shoot.
Also, closer does not mean sharper. Most lenses have a 1-4 foot minimum focusing distance. Stand back and zoom in.
As far as lighting, just get 2 desk lamps with soft 100 watt bulbs and put them on either side of the board.
If all goes well, you'll get crazy sharp pictures like this:
I have been working on long exposures and close up shots, but the long exposures always come out really grainy or nasty looking...
turn down your ISO. i shoot 100 usually. but that means there needs to be more light. so a steady base is key. and white balance is real important for clarity and a good overall look.
turn down your ISO. i shoot 100 usually. but that means there needs to be more light. so a steady base is key. and white balance is real important for clarity and a good overall look.
in film photography, the ISO number represents the fineness of the silver halide crystals on the film that react to light. usually the scale goes 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600. there are some higher and lower than that, but this is the norm in most film. if the number is high, this means that the crystal grains are larger; since they have a larger surface area, it requires less light to react the same image. the downside of the large crystals, means your resolution suffers...basically less 'pixels' per square inch. the smaller the number means the crystals are small and can produce a fine quality image, but they need more light. but in todays world, the film has beeen replaced with digital sensors, so they mimic the silver halide crystals.
so... lets say its dusk; you want a photo of a friend doing a Coleman and you do not want to sacrifice the grainy effect of a high ISO. you get a tripod and lock the tilt and roll, but let the swivel loose. you choose a low ISO, maybe 200 with a 1/8 second shutter at f/2.8 . when the slide is about to happen, you have to look through the viewfinder and see where the rider is relative to the frame boundary. try to visualize where they are in the frame and follow the rider until they are as close to you. press the shutter button. on my camera, the LCD screen goes black for the duration the shutter is open+the time it takes to store the image( in this case 1/8 second for capture and 1/8 second for processing), so using the viewfinder helps tremendously. keeping the rider in the relatively same position on screen, makes the 'film' records all the light bouncing off of them and into the sensor in the same place. this gives you the effect of the rider being in prefect focus and the background, that is still in real time, appear blurred in the direction you just turned your camera(form side to side).
i think this really makes for a dramatic setting. it makes it feel more real...somehow. i dont know. maybe its the drugs. oh well. thats my 2cents. heres and example
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Re: official photography thread
Re: official photography thread
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