Anyone have experience with the casio ex-fh20? I was going to get a regular point and shoot camera (sd880) because I could also take videos, but then my dad found that camera. I dunno if the casio is any good except for the fact that it can shoot 40 pictures a second and other high speed stuff. It's also a CMOS and the cannon sd880 is ccd.
40 pictures a second or 40 frames a second? there is a big difference
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[HamsterChucker360] 11:55 pm: i slid them to 78mm
[HamsterChucker360] 11:55 pm: from 76mm
Anyone have experience with the casio ex-fh20? I was going to get a regular point and shoot camera (sd880) because I could also take videos, but then my dad found that camera. I dunno if the casio is any good except for the fact that it can shoot 40 pictures a second and other high speed stuff. It's also a CMOS and the cannon sd880 is ccd.
Location: mililani, hawaii/ bel air maryland for a while though
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Re: official photography thread
OK today was my first day in the studio and I have to say....I'm hooked. We played around with basic lighting setups and it was super fun. Super cute model too
and me with her:
Haven't developed the film ones yet but I'll post them when I do. Anybody have any fun lighting techniques or things to try? I have access to all professional equipment at my school and a full on studio!
One of my friends did an off cam lighting guide. I'll repost it here, yes, he scooters.
Quote:
I’ve noticed a lot more people here are starting to use off cam flashes, so I thought I’d put together a tutorial for off camera lighting, hopefully it will help some people.
Basics:
Using off camera flashes is useful for creating less ‘flat’ lighting, and can help to make your photo much more interesting. You’re going to need a few pieces of equipment though:
Flashes:
You’re going to want to get a flash that has manual power settings and a fast flash duration, so you can freeze the action. I use vivitar 285s, they are a good cheap flash with a very fast flash duration and manual settings, it also has an adjustable head so you can use it on wide, normal or telephoto. Be careful not to ever use a vivitar 285 on your camera though, it has a very high trigger voltage which can damage modern cameras, but that doesn’t matter if it’s just on a tripod. The vivitar 285HV is safe to use on camera though.
Slaves:
Slaves are what trigger the flashes, you can get optical and infrared ones but they’re not very reliable so I’m only going to talk about radio slaves. Pocket wizards are the best, but they are expensive. I use Quantum 4 and 4i radio slaves, they are older then PWs but they are still good and reliable, if you do buy them make sure you only get 1 frequency, either A, B, C or D, because they will not work together.
You can also get cheap radio slaves off ebay also, I’ve never used them, but I’ve heard they can be pretty unreliable, especially if you are using multiple receivers. They can be good if you just want to try out off cam lighting without a big investment, but I would recommend getting pocket wizards, if you can afford it.
You have to connect the ‘sender’ slave to your camera with pc sync cords, and the receiver to the flash, if you camera doesn’t have a sync cord terminal you will need a hotshoe adapter like:
If you didn’t get a sync cord with you’re flash they are easy enough to get on ebay, there is male and female connections on pc cords so make sure you get the correct cable:
male is left and female is right.
Stands:
You can either use a lightstand or a tripod, lightstands are usually taller and more compact. I use tripods, but that’s just because I had a few already, you will just need to get a hotshoe adapter like this:
That will let you mount your flash onto the tripod.
Exposure:
Exposing for flashes can be tricky at first but once you get the hang of it it’s not too hard. The aperture is the most important setting, that will determine the ‘intensity’ of the flash, because the flash itself only lasts for a split second the shutter speed doesn’t effect that exposure, only the exposure of the ambient/available light. You can work out the aperture with a formula; [aperture = flash guide number / distance.] The guide number is basically how powerful the flash is, you should be able to find the guide number for any flash online, but for a vivitar 285 on ‘normal’ its 120 at 100iso. A simpler way is by using a flash meter, like the sekonic l308, but as most people use digital here, I’d say just shoot some test shots until the lighting looks good.
Once you have the correct aperture you can adjust the shutter speed, usual skate/bmx photographers underexpose the ambient light by one or two stops, which helps make the subject stand out. That means if you are at f8 and the correct exposure for the scene is 1/60th, you would use 1/125th or 1/250th to underexpose the background.
Here’s another example, you meter the scene at f5.6 with 1/250th, and you work out that the flashes need f8, you would just use f8 with 1/120th which would be underexposing the ambient by 1 stop. (One increment on the shutter speed is equivalent to 1 stop difference).
If you are shooting in daylight then you will have to keep you shutter speed fairly high or else you will get motion blur, even with the flashes. Flash sync speed (or x-sync), is the fastest shutter speed your camera can sync with flashes at, for most cameras it is 1/200th or 1/250th, if you’re sync speed is slower then that you may struggle to get sharp pictures in daylight, but at dusk or night you shouldn’t have a problem.
Flash Placement:
Here are a few examples of flash positions I have used:
1.
I usually only use 2 flashes but with 3 flashes you get a lot more control, here I use the flash on the right as a rimlight, I powered up that flash so it overexposing, which created some highlights.
2.
This is an example of ‘sandwich’ lighting, its can be used to create very dramatic lighting with a lot of shadows and highlights. I think both flashes were at ½ power.
3.
More of a ‘standard’ lighting set up, but it usually has good results.
These are just examples of positioning, it really depends on the situation, just don’t be scared to experiment a bit with it, it’s the best way to learn.
I have missed out a lot of information here but I just wanted to skim over the basics, if you do have any questions feel free to ask, and I’ll try my best to answer them.
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Donald Miguel
Photographer/Graphic Designer
Re: official photography thread
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