Build Off contest 2: Expert Class Entry thread

**sniffleless** · 08-01-2009 11:07 AM

This is the Official Entry thread for the Expert Class.

This time you have to choose. It's time to show off those board building skills and wood working magic. Just post up some pictures of the board you built during the official build period. I'd like to see a couple of pics during the build (like in the press and during the shaping process) and at least one of the finished board. More pics never hurts.
ONE ENTRY PER PERSON PLEASE!

You have a week to get your entries posted up. At the end of that week, I will lock the thread and the voting begins. For the experts you will be contact by me via PM. You will receive voting instructions. You follow those instructions and respond back to the PM. You will have a week to do it.

Okay the voting is no big secret. You all get to rate your competition. You select what you believe to be the top three boards (EXCLUDING YOUR OWN. You can't vote for yourself). You rate those boards on a scale of 1 to 10. Ten being best score. 1 being worst score. You send those scores to me by replying to the PM I send you. I add up the scores. Builder with the most points wins.

You can't vote for yourself because I want you to stay honest and objective. We all love our own creations but you have seen your own board in person. You haven't seen the others besides on the internet I would wager. You know your boards flaws. I'm sure you want to win too. So I hope that helps you understand the reason for not being able to vote for yourself. If you truly made the best board the votes of your peers should reflect that.

Remember this is all for fun.

All that enter the Expert Class are put in the running for Builder of the Year.

**SoloRider** · 08-01-2009 11:12 AM

1st!

Vote for me and I promise to put a brand new pony in every household in the country.

I started by routing out a channel in a sheet of 1/8" bamboo veneer, I didn't set up a guide because I knew it wouldn't be important.

Next I laid down a little carbon and kevlar in the channel...

...and epoxied it it place. After that was all set up and I was happy I grabbed a second sheet of bamboo and put them in the press. The press is a mild "W" with 5/8" of camber over the length of the deck.

After it came out of the press I glued down some scrap blocks at the ends of my blank like so.

I've had some trouble in a previous build keeping the stringer from shifting in the press and these blocks keep everything lined up nicely.

Next I got started on detailing my mahogany stringer. I thought a rocket might be nice...

...but how are you going to know that it's moving?

Much better! This was a major pain in the ass BTW. I've always kind of wanted a scroll saw but have never really felt the need. As I was cutting this out with a coping saw and coming perilously close to breaking it a number of times I was sure wishing that I had one.

Next I put the whole thing back in the press.

Then I could coat the whole thing in epoxy.

After that, the drawing and cutting started.

Even more cutting until I had what I was looking for.

After all that it was just a matter of finishing, gripping, and setting it up. All ready for delivery.

Specs:

35.5" length
9.4" width
24.5" wheelbase

Remember: A vote for me is a vote for ponies!

**mystiktrueno** · 08-01-2009 11:29 AM

woooww! those rockets look good!!

**gnidnu** · 08-01-2009 11:55 AM

Yeeha, it's open! This is my entry for the Build Off #2 2009:

A bamboo/fibre glass deck designated for SDP (Short Distance Pumping), just 6 mm thin with an additional 3 mm waist stringer. Top and bottom feature a glass based fabric metallised on one side, similar to Texalium. The deck was post cured in a heat curing oven for enhanced resin cross-linking and high temperature resistance. An annealed matte varnish protects fibres and resin matrix from UV-exposure. Sprinkeled on corundum - an abrasive blasting agent - was used for the clear grip. A 12 mm radial concave plus a 6 mm convex strip in the back lock in the riders feet.

Large pictures: Click here or here

Large Pictures: Click here or here

Large pictures: Click here or here

Large picture: Click here

Specs.:
Length: 82 cm
Width: 24 cm
Wheelbase: 59 / 62 cm
Concave: 1,2 cm
Flex: Stiff

**piedogger** · 08-01-2009 11:58 AM

solorider-awsome NW REPERSENT

**Big Foot Boarder** · 08-01-2009 12:37 PM

Solo that board is BEAUTIFUL!
gnidnu that's a sick board how's it ride?

**gnidnu** · 08-01-2009 12:44 PM

@Big Foot Boarder: I really dunno, the setup hasn't arrived arrived yet. Still waiting for some baseplates.

**Big Foot Boarder** · 08-01-2009 01:06 PM

Originally Posted by gnidnu

@Big Foot Boarder: I really dunno, the setup hasn't arrived arrived yet. Still waiting for some baseplates.

Gotcha well that just looks like a blast to ride so lemme know. haha

**dap209** · 08-01-2009 02:20 PM

solo that board is a piece of art. +10forponies

**DitchDodger** · 08-01-2009 02:28 PM

I'm back!
May I present the aptly named Lead Sled for your consideration.
48" long, 10.5" wide, weighing in at an impressive 12 lbs as loaded with Indy 215's and Retro 70mm's. (tried some clear green wheels in a couple shots, but like the yellow).
Made from solid Ipe and Hard Maple, dowelled at every joint and finished like a grand piano.

Started out by feeding the rough Ipe and Maple through the wonder machine.

After cutting the wood into strips, dowels were inserted every 3"- 4" before glue-up.

After the initial glue-up the deck was fed through the planer and then the side rails were clamped in place.

Here's the sanded board before finish was applied.

The plan was to airbrush on the logo and then the clear finish.

The board mounted so as to pivot while being sprayed.

Template in place and logo applied.

After removing the logo template I discovered that the paint didn't adhere to Ipe, so I sanded it all off and applied a logo that was printed on clear acetate and then sealed under the clear finish.

Much sanding, several coats of clear finish, some buffing and polish, and you get this.
Enjoy!

Strictly designed for cruising (and catching attention).

Thanks for your consideration.
DitchDodger
ditchdodger.com

**guivans** · 08-01-2009 02:34 PM

Theres something very different from the usual...

**mystiktrueno** · 08-01-2009 02:41 PM

it kinda reminds me of a yacht

**mace the bass** · 08-01-2009 02:50 PM

i would be too afraid to put a scratch on that to ever ride it

is it comfy to ride with those big rail on either side though?

**DitchDodger** · 08-01-2009 03:44 PM

Originally Posted by guivans

Theres something very different from the usual...

I get a kick out of trying something out of the ordinary...

**DitchDodger** · 08-01-2009 03:47 PM

Originally Posted by mace the bass

i would be too afraid to put a scratch on that to ever ride it

is it comfy to ride with those big rail on either side though?

The rails stick up less than 1/4" and are barely noticeable. The 45 V-lam that I entered last year had a similar finish and still looks as good as new.

**DitchDodger** · 08-01-2009 03:50 PM

Originally Posted by SoloRider

1st!

Vote for me and I promise to put a brand new pony in every household in the country.

I started by routing out a channel in a sheet of 1/8" bamboo veneer, I didn't set up a guide because I knew it wouldn't be important.

Next I laid down a little carbon and kevlar in the channel...

...and epoxied it it place. After that was all set up and I was happy I grabbed a second sheet of bamboo and put them in the press. The press is a mild "W" with 5/8" of camber over the length of the deck.

After it came out of the press I glued down some scrap blocks at the ends of my blank like so.

I've had some trouble in a previous build keeping the stringer from shifting in the press and these blocks keep everything lined up nicely.

Next I got started on detailing my mahogany stringer. I thought a rocket might be nice...

...but how are you going to know that it's moving?

Much better! This was a major pain in the ass BTW. I've always kind of wanted a scroll saw but have never really felt the need. As I was cutting this out with a coping saw and coming perilously close to breaking it a number of times I was sure wishing that I had one.

Next I put the whole thing back in the press.

Then I could coat the whole thing in epoxy.

After that, the drawing and cutting started.

Even more cutting until I had what I was looking for.

After all that it was just a matter of finishing, gripping, and setting it up. All ready for delivery.

Specs:

35.5" length
9.4" width
24.5" wheelbase

Remember: A vote for me is a vote for ponies!

Nice effort!. I'm glad I live in Canada because I'd be really pissed if I found a pony in my house next week

**bertman** · 08-02-2009 07:49 AM

I'm not sure why I'm even posting after seeing what's been entered thus far. But here goes my first attempt at a contest. This is maybe my 20th pressing?

I started with 1/4 inch Baltic Birch and stacked three sheets with Titebond3. Then it went into the press which is pretty ghetto but the thing works well.

I then created a brand new template after chatting with Speedo who wants a strong and wide deck for his large dimensions and sturdy enough for Alburquerque ditches. I tweaked it and then layed it out on the blank pressing.

I cut it out with a jigsaw and then sanded down the rails to give it shape.

After I was satisfied with the rails and overall shape, I marked out the hole patterns and drilled them out.

After it was drilled and sanded further, I decided upon a theme (after much brainstorming). I wanted to do something specific for Speedo like a characature of some dude wearing a banana hammock but thought that may convey the wrong message so I went with a "beast" theme as this deck was starting to become one. So I painted it with the primary color which is "Grabber Green".

I then cut out "stripes" from masking tape and layed them out on the deck one at a time.

Then I sprayed the black, allowed it to dry, and removed the tape.

I then masked it again for the logo.

Several clearcoats and sanding sessions later...

Then I decided to grip it and add some fresh Paris 180's and orange BigZigs with Oust Mach7's...
Dimensions are 39 inches long, 10.5 inches wide with a 31 inch wheelbase.

**Rich Nelson** · 08-02-2009 07:51 AM

**FBD** · 08-02-2009 08:07 PM

these boards are what I aspire to.
amazing job to everyone!

**hoch92000** · 08-02-2009 09:05 PM

Here is one for you foam fume junkies. It features the use of that, oh so fragile, pink stryofoam. It is going to be the last time I use it. Going for some stronger stuff I got from a plastic factory in Yadkinville. The pink stuff is extremely light but useable if fortified adequately.

First off, the core is structured with alternating foam and wood elements to counteract the foam's susceptibility to compression. The wood here is all poplar, also very light. The thin pieces are about 1/4" wide, and the foam goes 1". Epoxy for glue.

After setting, the core is planed to 7/16" (my new toy, a planar, a highly underrated tool).

.

My aim was to create a foam core with solid rails, a bit of a challenge. There are certainly more than 100 ways to skin this cat, other than that shown here. The core is shaped and bound by 1/2" by 7/16" red oak runners, pre-routered for rounded undercurve. No glue yet, just clamps to hold the baby together. Also, are added the 1" wide small poplar pieces on the front and back end, after sections of foam were cut.

The clamps are replaced by duct tape (that's right, duct tape).

The core is wrapped in triax glass after epoxy is placed between all the non-glued joints. The top layer of glass (note the deck is top face down) was cut about 1.5" around the core, wrapped over the edge, then the top layer of glass was laid over, resulting in an overlap of about 1" around the top edge of the deck. The fore and aft will be cut revealing bare wood which will also be wrapped.

And out of the bag.

As explained, the final shape was cut, and more glass was placed over the front and back edges, which did trap a little air

. Sanded profusely, hot-coated, varnished, sanded, wet-sanded, then buffed. Epoxy and white sand on top. The Varnish used was spar urethane, which did yellow a bit. I've tried a bit of everything for varnish; urethanes, automotive, etc, and all things considered, I'm going to go with polycrylic from now on. Clear, water-based, safe, durable and certainly shiny if buffed.

So here is the final product. I didn't weigh it but it feels like it weighs bugger all. It is set-up with a Bennet/RTS combo, but tuned for cruising small hills. 25 1/2 WB (with the option to go from 24.5 to about 29), stiff as hale, and steep cave. Thanks should go to all that have posted exhaustive threads on composite work.