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Re: slammed originals
 Originally Posted by ATB Longboards
right now i have the 250mm orginal trucks and i love them, im planing on making a new deck this weekend preferbly a drop thru. i have a few ideas to make my origninals dropped but still thinking of other methods for this. any advice to make the originals drop thru? worst comes to worse im going to use randels. 
There's no space for it between the base and hanger
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Re: slammed originals
 Originally Posted by ATB Longboards
right now i have the 250mm orginal trucks and i love them, im planing on making a new deck this weekend preferbly a drop thru. i have a few ideas to make my origninals dropped but still thinking of other methods for this. any advice to make the originals drop thru? worst comes to worse im going to use randels. 
just make it a topmounted deck with a drop or rocker equaling the thickness of the deck, that'd be a pretty good approximation of the feel of a dropthrough.
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Re: slammed originals
 Originally Posted by -Mu-
There's no space for it between the base and hanger
thats true then the trucks are loose i tightnd mine a turn or two and it stopped about a 1/4'' away from the base im sure there is a way to make it work you may need some additional hardwear but i think it could happen
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Re: slammed originals
 Originally Posted by glideronfreerides
just make it a topmounted deck with a drop or rocker equaling the thickness of the deck, that'd be a pretty good approximation of the feel of a dropthrough.
I have a sneaking suspicion that putting Originals on a rockered or dropped deck with no riser would be railbite city (depending on the width, of course).
The closest approximation of a dropthrough deck with Originals is topmounting them with no risers. The reason you can't dropthrough originals isn't because the baseplate has a funky design, it's because the truck itself is already too low.
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Re: slammed originals
originals will not drop through, and if you do manage to do it, they won't have anything like the ride you had from them before.
 Originally Posted by Petary791
i ****ing hate evos with a burning passion of 1000 suns
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Re: slammed originals
sadly these babys won't drop thu...like everyone else said...but if you make an indent for the bolt in the originals then you wont need any riser and that could be really low being that the trucks are pretty low to start with.
Turn on. Tune in. Drop out.
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 Originally Posted by Concrete Slave
Thats not being whipped. That means I want some poon
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Re: slammed originals
 Originally Posted by lizardbowl12
sadly these babys won't drop thu...like everyone else said...but if you make an indent for the bolt in the originals then you wont need any riser and that could be really low being that the trucks are pretty low to start with.
you will be surprised i have a very good idea now that is all over like three sheets of paper lol i think im on to something. haha you all prob think im crazy but give me some time ill come up with something
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Re: slammed originals
 Originally Posted by jaytoo@gmail.com
I have a sneaking suspicion that putting Originals on a rockered or dropped deck with no riser would be railbite city (depending on the width, of course).
oh yeah, good point. well, perhaps the way to go then would be to make the drop equal to the thickness of the deck + the riser. no?
topmounting with no risers would work too, but the cutouts would have to be massive.
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Re: slammed originals
ATB I haven't figured out a way to drop thru originals. You'd have to clear the way for the hangar to get to full lean which is hard unless you make specific cutouts for the hangar but you'd need a tapered nose/tail for that.
The only solution to getting them lower then Original can provide (directly topmounted) was having them flushmounted.
But then there might be strength issues if you don't reinforce it on thin boards.
Flushmount Originals+Dropthru Reinforcement plates
I made that thread awhile ago to show my flushmount Originals and I put another link on that thread for pics of before the flushmount. Check it out.
If you could find a way to drop them thru... tha'd be teh secks
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Re: slammed originals
If you're building a board specifically to try and drop originals thru... maybe go with the Roger bros 3-piece approach? Design your deck as mostly just a standing platform, then try a mounting system that is thin enough to drop thru the originals without hanger bite, or whatever the problem is?
That said, I have absolutely no experience with Originals, and am not at all familiar with the design. If the problem is that you can't take Originals apart to drop them thru, maybe try an open ended mount? Think about it like drop speed/hellcat/generic drop thru that has it's nose broken...
i dunno, just throwing some ideas out there
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Re: slammed originals
 Originally Posted by ATB Longboards
thats true then the trucks are loose i tightnd mine a turn or two and it stopped about a 1/4'' away from the base im sure there is a way to make it work you may need some additional hardwear but i think it could happen

Tightening only puts more stress on the cam and may break it. If you want to restrict turning there is a post discussing the use of bushings WITH springs to decrease turning at it's end, but it seems silly to me to restrict the depth of the turn on trucks designed to turn that hard. That said, it's all about choice right?
But yeah it's recommended that you not tighten it any more than necessary (tight enough to keep it from unrestricted rattling/wobbling).
The only option I can think of is if you could mount it on thinner metal that then mounts onto the board, there's a company (I forget their name) that does that sort of thing with originals already. These are REALLY low trucks to begin with so I feel like a flush-mount alone would be quite a low ride to begin with, and going any lower risks serious rail-bite.
μ
Stay clam
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Re: slammed originals
 Originally Posted by -Mu-
The only option I can think of is if you could mount it on thinner metal that then mounts onto the board, there's a company (I forget their name) that does that sort of thing with originals already.
You're thinking of the Thresher from Surf Rodz.. though I suppose they'll be putting their own trucks on instead once they're released.
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As for dropping Originals through.. hangar and baseplate will pinch the deck unless it's less than 1/4" thick. (and shaped perfectly) That's a law you can't get around; the hangar and plate get that close at full lean, and Originals always go to full lean, no matter which spring you use or how much you tighten them. You'll have to use a material that's strong enough at that thickness, even after it's cut to a shape that will allow the rest of the hangar and wheels to clear without bite. Or you'll have to accept that your turning will be limited by hangarbite, which might be acceptable to you.. and it would help with the next problem:
When it comes to just dropping the deck, you really wanna take a good look at your intended height. Start with the board you've got them on already. Stand on it, lean it all the way over, and measure the distance from the edge of the board to the ground. Now, measure the thickness of the baseplate, any riser you're using, and the thickness of your deck. Subtract the second number from the first- and if the deck flexes, subtract the distance it can flex in the middle as well. If you've just ended up with a negative number, you've got railbite. If it's not negative, I'll bet it's pretty small. That small number is how much space you've got left for heel or toe overhang, or for your fingers if you grab rail.
Mind you, I'm not bringing this up to be a killjoy. I've played with lowering Originals myself. I've got 'em on a G-Bomb, which uses some metal brackets to provide drop (similar to the Surf Rodz board I mentioned above), and had to add bigger wheels and more riser to keep from dragging rails & toes. Anyway, there's a few things I've learned:
1) Use a narrow deck. There's a reason Original made the Apex so narrow.. I could use less riser on my G-bomb if my deck weren't so wide.
2) Use a stiff deck. My G-bomb flexes a lot, and I could go a lot lower if it didn't.
3) Use a lot of concave. If your rails ride higher, they'll be less prone to drag, and your overall height can be lower.
If you decide to go through with it, good luck! Take pics!
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