A quick question about stringers

[Killbo]

Apologies in advance if this has been asked and answered before, but I couldn't find the answer I needed using search.

How would I go about bending a stringer to fit a drop deck? I want to reduce the number of plys used from 5 to 3, and add stiffness using a 4 inch wide 1/4 inch thick stringer. Would I press the deck, then glue the stringer on? And is steam the best way to get the stringer to follow the shape of the board?

Thanks.

[Maxx]

Apologies in advance if this has been asked and answered before, but I couldn't find the answer I needed using search.

How would I go about bending a stringer to fit a drop deck? I want to reduce the number of plys used from 5 to 3, and add stiffness using a 4 inch wide 1/4 inch thick stringer. Would I press the deck, then glue the stringer on? And is steam the best way to get the stringer to follow the shape of the board?

Thanks.

Well i would probably clamp it on afterwards, since its 1/4" thick. Whether or not you can bend it depends on what type of wood its made out of. I don't know anything about steaming but I suppose it could work.

[redamnavit]

And is steam the best way to get the stringer to follow the shape of the board?

Steaming is quite effective in shaping solid wood but it'd be wise to do it separate from the deck of the board to avoid the issues that steam + glue provide.

The last time I had to steam a piece of wood to form (admittedly... 11 years ago) I build a jig with dowels mounted to a board at the inside of each planned curve, then forced the wood in and and around those dowels then put the whole apparatus in a steaming box. My curves weren't very aggressive though; if your drop is quite abrupt you might have to steam the stringer to a less aggressive profile using a "milder" jig before you steam it using a final jig... am I making any sense? Also, expect and plan for a certain amount of spring back depending on what wood you use and how long you leave it to steam.

Come to think of it I've never seen a drop board with a stringer. Looking at my explanation, perhaps this is why... honestly it seems to me you'd be better off building a laminated stringer i.e. several 4" wide strips built up to your desired thickness and formed using your board's mold, then trued up and glued to the deck surface.

[Killbo]

Steaming is quite effective in shaping solid wood but it'd be wise to do it separate from the deck of the board to avoid the issues that steam + glue provide.

The last time I had to steam a piece of wood to form (admittedly... 11 years ago) I build a jig with dowels mounted to a board at the inside of each planned curve, then forced the wood in and and around those dowels then put the whole apparatus in a steaming box. My curves weren't very aggressive though; if your drop is quite abrupt you might have to steam the stringer to a less aggressive profile using a "milder" jig before you steam it using a final jig... am I making any sense? Also, expect and plan for a certain amount of spring back depending on what wood you use and how long you leave it to steam.

Come to think of it I've never seen a drop board with a stringer. Looking at my explanation, perhaps this is why... honestly it seems to me you'd be better off building a laminated stringer i.e. several 4" wide strips built up to your desired thickness and formed using your board's mold, then trued up and glued to the deck surface.

Thanks, this really helps. I decided to try this on a more simple build, basically a mini with a slightly raised tail. That way I can see how long I need to steam and how well the wood will bend once steamed. I'm using 1/4 inch lacewood and have read that it takes to steaming quite well. If working with it proves to be difficult even for the simple job I need to do, then I will use your idea and make a laminated stringer.
Thanks again.