40" design spec.

[Sideburnt]

Hey guys.

I've been scouring the internet for ages trying to find the best design for a board that i can for a street/commute/carving board.

I've gone for a light strong board with a slight concave flex and reckon its pretty close but I want some other opinions.

Now this is the geeky bit. I've gotten a bit obsessed by this project so I've put together a design spec file that I'm updating every time I improve an idea, its got everything on there, wood grain, glue etc. etc. it also sources materials that I can find in my area (Leeds UK).

I know its a bit of a ball ache but would you guys take a look over and tell me if this is a crap setup or improvements if possible.


http://www.bigupload.com/d=4638 thats my RAR'ed spec run the html or open the flash file in IE.

And just a quick question off the cuff, has anyone ever made a board from oak plank?, I've researched all this so much I'm almost yearning for a good strong board with a little flex carved out of one piece of wood. heavy but sexy.

thanks in advance.

(i've added my file as an attachment too, wasn't sure of the best way to link)

[Staffan]

Nice design spec file. I use to create 3d-models of my designs to visualize how they'll look....

Anyway, the fibreglass will do you most when it's close to the bottom of the deck.

As your board flexes, the top layers will compress and the bottom layers will stretch. I'm not all too experienced with theese kinds of materials, but my guesses is that fibreglass is best at taking the stretchy forces.

Just look at foam/fibre constructions, where you have two layers of fibre seperated by a foam core. The foam core doesn't really take any heavy stresses, it's main purpose is to keep the two layers of fibres seperated.

Laso, if you want cross-grain wood, i'd recommend putting it in the middle layers, for the reasons stated above.

[bpz]

If those things that look like wheel wells are gonna be wheel wells, I suggest mounting the trucks and seeing where the wheels will actually hit: it more than likely WON'T be right underneath the axle. See where the wheel will bite and put 'em in there.