Speedboard build ruined...arrr, stupid drop thru's!

[ryan]

I'm pissed. I started building this deck to sell cuz I neaded cash, but now its ruined. First off I hate dropping boards thru, and second I had this really rough cutting blade to do it with. I cut it two wide, and now the board looks al sketched out, and the cutout is to close to the hole. I'm pissed, I guess I'll have to ride this one with only 3 bolts on the tail. Arrrrrr, any advice on how to make drop thru's look clean? I can make them work and all, but I want them to look clean. This board kinda looks like a Smoothcut now that I think about it...but anyway, I'm pissed, if you didn't catch that.

[Mr. Zogs]

what did u use to cut out the drop throughs? routers and rotozips make them easier and smoother... a jigsaw is tough to use to get the tab slots done right......

[ryan]

I'm stuck with a jigsaw, I'm actually in the process of trying to buy a rotozip

[nsc1120]

maybe try making a drop though plate thing like on the seismic drop through board


http://www.silverfishlongboarding.co...ic+drop+plates

[ol'dude]

Thin piece of sheet metal will cure it.
Also, remeber one of the Golden Rules of Woodworking; alwayscut inside the line first.

Oh... and get a plunge router.

[ddsnake]

Ryan , you make awesome boards......and you learn from each one.
(I understand your frustrations)
Mabey drop the baseplates into the slots and make sure the holes line up and bolt them in place make sure they are solid and that it rolls straight . If it feels solid then its all good. Even if you feel a couple of the bolt holes are too close to the slot - If it feels solid it's good. Then sand and finish the slots nicely.
Save for a router and make yourself a tempelate/jig for the drop thru and then whenever you have to make a drop thru , measure,mark ,clamp jig to deck, router the slots =nice drop thrus.
Keep up the good work!

[ryan]

Thanks for thanks for the advice guys!
I already have a router, but it's like bolted to a table, and is a pin to take of to tour the drop thru's. I nead to do more precise work!

[tofman]

still looks queit ride-able though, in fact it looks sweet.

[whitmell]

If you think about it, as long as the board is thick (or strong) enough, it shouldn't matter that the hole's close to the cutout, the screws will be going through the truck, it's not like they're really going to move.

That being said, I would still take some thin sheet metal and make plates to go on both sides. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to do even if you didn't screw up the cutout.

[xxsimply_becausexx]

maybe try making a drop though plate thing like on the seismic drop through board


http://www.silverfishlongboarding.co...ic+drop+plates

I'm currently in the process of trying to design one to go along with randall DH's and RII's. Let you guys know how it comes out.

PHil

[CrisVA]

maybe try making a drop though plate thing like on the seismic drop through board


http://www.silverfishlongboarding.co...ic+drop+plates

I'm currently in the process of trying to design one to go along with randall DH's and RII's. Let you guys know how it comes out.

PHil

Whats to design? It looks like a piece of steel with holes drilled out. Seems kinda mindless to me.

[ryan]

still looks queit ride-able though, in fact it looks sweet.

it's definately rideable, and that's what I'll do with it.
I wanted to sell it though, and I don't want to sell crap board with only 3 functional holes, and sketchy looking cutouts

[bpz]

I'll buy it for a discounted price if you wanna hook it up Perhaps we should talk? PM me if you're interested.

[dbasmonkey]

alright, i have absolutely raped a dropthrough attempt like that, but there's a fairly easy way out- if you are willing to permanently sacrifice those trucks to that board. cut a small square of fiberglass that matches the shape of the truck mounting plate with a hole in the middle for the trucks to go through, align it on the top of the board exactly, and wet it with a little activated resin. then put the trucks through, and clamp the hell out of em to the board, so they'll be as pressed in as possible with no gaps. when that cures, trim the excess cloth, belt sand it, whatever works for ya. then on the bottem, stuff in as much fiberglass as possible to take up space without submerging any vital moving parts, and pour activated resin in the top as much as seems like a good idea. more beltsanding, etc etc, eventually you'll have a pretty damned solid mount, if used in conjunction with some plates, the board will be darned near invincible, and of course you'll have the cured resin to screw into.

if i made no sense or you want so see a pic, pm me

[EBasil]

Whatever you do, salvage it somehow. That's a nice-looking deck. Well, other than the holes...