Another first timer...I know I know.

[drummerstix]

Alright, so I'm looking to build my first board. Probably in the longer (48"-60") range, something with a little camber, probably no concave. I'm sure many of you have made a simple cruiser before, and I wanted to get input about wood, glassing, etc.

11-ply Baltic Birch sound good? If not, what do you guys use?

I don't want to spend the money for a Vac Bag system for glassing, etc. If I were to just slap it on there, would I do it before or after the bending for the camber? (I'm guessing after, but I have no experience with this, so I want to be sure) What's a decent thickness fiberglass to use? And for resin, Epoxy?

Regarding staining: I've seen some sick stain jobs that I want to do. Looking at a darker stain with lighter stained racing stripes down the middle. Any of you guys who stain your boards, when during the building process do you do that? And what's the best way to get those stripes?

As far as wheelbase goes, I'm looking to get the front trucks as close to the nose as I can, trying to eliminate wheel bite (although I won't be carving too much on this board). What's a good size wheelbase for a 54"x9" board with a few inches of camber? I weigh about 155lbs.

I know there are a lot of questions here, and for all you more experienced guys they're probably very stupid, haha. I'd appreciate any advice you all have though. Thanks a bunch, and happy riding.

[Longbord1]

im sure meaningoflife could help you out. im 147 and he made me cambered 60" out of 17 or 15 plys of baltic birch. h=the camber flattens out and the board feels great

[lettucefresh]

What thickness Baltic Birch are you using to laminate this? i would suggest using 1/8 (3 Ply) and doing 4 layers, for a total of 12 plys.
I would glass between the two inside layers and the two outside layers. Glass is stronger on the outside, yes, but much easier to do in between plys. Brian at FeralArts uses this method and likes it, i do too. even though you don't get quite the same strength from the glass, it's way easier.
I would recommend something in the 6- 9 oz. range. Go for unidirectional, if you can find it. Usually tri-axial is a waste, unless it's a slalom board. and bi-axial is ok, but uni is what you really want.

So the order.
1.Cut rectangles out of your ply slightly bigger than the shape you want. 2.Laminate w/ fibeglass between plys (if you decide to go that way)
3. Cut out shape.
4. sand and get it looking perfect
5. stain
6. sand
7 (if you were glassing the outside, this would be the time to do it)
8 clearcoat
9 sand
repeat steps 8 and 9 until you want to ride it so bad you can't take it anymore.

To solve wheelbite, i would use wheelwells or a shape that eliminates wheel bite. And, on a 54 inch board,i would recommend making it 10 inches wide, you have a much greater truck selection (all the 180 sizes) and the leverage will be perfect, whereas a 150 hangar would be a little narrow, and less stable.


or, instead of me typing all of that, i could have just told you to use the search function.

[drummerstix]

Sweet deal, thanks man.

had a question about glassing, but realized it was very stupid.

[tomcat360]

you said that you didn't wanna get a vacuum bag, but after building for a while with different press types, I have finally decided that i really want a vacuum bag. not only is it great for glassing(not only fiberglass, but carbon fiber, kevlar...etc) it also laminates really well.

I think you should go with a vacuum bag, Roarockit has them for 55 bucks, and I definately think it would be worth it. instead of re-doing your press each time, you can just cut a new foam piece.

and I actually prefer the ride of glass on the inside....

[lettucefresh]

or, instead of me typing all of that, i could have just told you to use the search function.

!!!

[dbasmonkey]

pm me if you have access to an airbrush, i can teach you some good tricks on airbrushing stains. too see examples, check my recent board building post