Camber during Vac-bagging

[drummerstix]

Have any of you guys ever used the Space Saver bags as vac bags? I might be able to get a hold of a vacuum pump, because I don't think a shopvac would be able to get all the air out.

And when you add camber by putting a block or book under the foam mold and bending it while you vacuum out the air, do you push the deck down as well, or just let the vacuum take care of that?

[tomcat360]

do a search and look at Roarockit's site at the build a foam mold.

and for the double post you can delete it by going back and push 'edit' then select the checkbox at the bottom that says "delete this post"

that only works before someone responds though.

[nsc1120]

i looked those bags for vac bagging a couple times. they are made out of vinyl so the epoxy shouldnt stick but the seams are kinda thin also the bag is thin compared to the one that comes with the roarockit. if you could reinforce it it might work with a real vac pump

[sharcsplean]

an easy way to put in camber is to use 1/4 aluminum already bent with your camber in it. I did by board layup right on the aluminum and slid it right into the bag. that way one side also comes out super smooth.

you need to put in more caber into the mold than you want in your deck.

good luck!

[Ted]

Camber is easy with a foam mold. I came up with the foam mold idea for building skateboards when we first started experimenting with molds for our deck kits. During my experiments with different mold materials I discovered something interesting that you can only do with a foam mold. You can bend it.

Here is what you do. You shape your mold from foam, first cutting out the profile to what the final deck is going to look like. then you shape the concave along the edges of the deck. Remember the deck gets pressed bottom facing up. (the mold will be convex in shape. Stay away from concave molds when vacuum bagging)

The next step is really cool. Ater cutting and preparing your veneers, start your glue up. Put all the veneers into the bag with the mold, seal it, pump about 3/4 of the air out then take 2 blocks of wood (thick paperback books work great too) and put them under where the trucks would go. When you pump the remainder of the air from the bag, press down in the middle of your deck (this is easy if you are using the hand pump because the valve is usually at center) When the air is completly removed, the camber you put in it by bending the mold will remain until you open the bag. You now have a deck that has both concave and camber. Not only is this method simple but it is variable, the more you bend the mold the more camber your deck will end up with.

I've used this method on almost all the custom decks I have done and it works great.

Ted at Roarockit

[frank]

I've used a food saver for small board accessories. It worked fine. The bags are cool but not very big.

use a shower curtain.

[nsc1120]

use a shower curtain.

one of the clear vinyl ones though

[Directive0]

Camber is easy with a foam mold. I came up with the foam mold idea for building skateboards when we first started experimenting with molds for our deck kits. During my experiments with different mold materials I discovered something interesting that you can only do with a foam mold. You can bend it.

Here is what you do. You shape your mold from foam, first cutting out the profile to what the final deck is going to look like. then you shape the concave along the edges of the deck. Remember the deck gets pressed bottom facing up. (the mold will be convex in shape. Stay away from concave molds when vacuum bagging)

The next step is really cool. Ater cutting and preparing your veneers, start your glue up. Put all the veneers into the bag with the mold, seal it, pump about 3/4 of the air out then take 2 blocks of wood (thick paperback books work great too) and put them under where the trucks would go. When you pump the remainder of the air from the bag, press down in the middle of your deck (this is easy if you are using the hand pump because the valve is usually at center) When the air is completly removed, the camber you put in it by bending the mold will remain until you open the bag. You now have a deck that has both concave and camber. Not only is this method simple but it is variable, the more you bend the mold the more camber your deck will end up with.

I've used this method on almost all the custom decks I have done and it works great.

Ted at Roarockit

We borrowed this idea for a team riders deck, the Furtrapper, and it turned out like hot sex.. Mild s camber and a shallow concave yum yum!




simple concave we did the same way, but did two boards at a time and stood on the boards inbetween two pieces of wood... turned out pretty sweet