Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

[Consortium]

Here are the links to posts, threads and resources the Board Builders on the 'fish have accrued over the years. Check them out --there's great knowledge in these pages!

Your Questions Answered Basics Of Board Building


BASIC PRINCIPLE OF LAMINATION

VAC-LAMINATING "CAP" CONSTRUCTION

BUILDING YOUR FIRST PRESSED BOARD

BUILDING FIBERGLASS DECKS 101

BUILDING A BOARD RACK

HOW TO: FROM FOAM MOLD FOR VAC-BAG TO FINISHED BOARD

WOOD SUPPLIERS

FIBERGLASSING WITHOUT A BAG, 101

DIY WHEEL WELLS, A HOW-TO

HOW TO BUILD A SLALOM SKATEBOARD

These link to active threads that we can still all post to, and that used to be "stickies". If you'd like to nominate one we missed to be included here, post a reply to this thread or PM us.

[Loki440]

Not specifically to do with board building but building and board related

but how to make your own LED light Risers http://www.silverfishlongboarding.co...ic.php?t=23465

[wuchi]

what happend to the guide and templates about mountinghole/dropthrough-mounting?


edit: ooh here it was. should be sticky i think

http://www.silverfishlongboarding.co...opthrough+hole

[Tempest]

i think you should do a bolt hole template

This link is a board builders life saver, use it for the perfectly drilled board!!!

http://www.feralarts.com/images/BoltHoleTemplate.pdf

[Directive0]

then you printed it wrong folco. That file was in a 1:1 scale cad standard.

[ojnloco]

It’s because what ever you’re using to print the file with is resizing the image so it fits nicely on the page

Turn off an option called "fit to media" it’ll fix all your problems, well not all of them but these problems it will.

Ps that template helped make me some of the tastiest drop through holes ever seen

[Loki440]

ok people here you go, now stop complaining lol

BASIC PRINCIPLE OF LAMINATION

VAC-LAMINATING "CAP" CONSTRUCTION

BUILDING YOUR FIRST PRESSED BOARD

BUILDING FIBERGLASS DECKS 101

BUILDING A BOARD RACK

[Greenamtern]

If you want to buy mounting hardware from your local hardware store, here are the dimentions to look for (that I get at least):

10-24 x 1/2 SS
Machine Screws
Oval Head Phillips

10-24 SS
Lock Nuts
Nylon Insert

Buying in bulk is sweet.

[Loki440]

you mena 1 1/2" screws

and the flat one that are counter sunk are called flat socket cap screw well the allen key ones at least

cause allen key are better that phillips anyday

then again robertson are better than allen key, but thats where henry ford comes in and developes the philips style screw head because he didnt want to pay the royalites to the Canadain inventor who held the paten for the robertson style head which was and is better than philips

[Loki440]

Figured i should add this link, as there is alot of good info, if you ever wanted to know about metalflake whom is my mistress lol anyways


Almost Everything you Wanted to Know About Metalflake

i will add to that thread later if questions are brought up, but i dont see a point to endlessly ramble on without having a specific direction

[brainfartalerts]

This link is a board builders life saver, use it for the perfectly drilled board!!!

http://www.feralarts.com/images/BoltHoleTemplate.pdf

New home of the
Bolt Hole Template.

As before, no strings attached, open sores for everyone.

[brainfartalerts]

The bolt hole template has been cleaned up and normalized.

What does that mean?

The older template was indexed to real world examples of base plate drillings.
While the length of the bolt hole spacing remains the same at 2 1/8" and 2 1/2", the accepted design layout for the width of the bolt hole spacing differs from the older template measuring out at 1 5/8".

The drop through outline has been stripped off.

The new template looks like this:



Click on the image to open the PDF drawing for printing.
Remember to turn off scaling when printing the template.
Check against the index lines of the template to assure accurate print-outs.

If you are interested in purchasing template stickers, a cut sheet of 6 stickers may be purchased for $2.25 by clicking on the link below. This price is for US shipping only. If you are ordering from outside of the US, please contact me for adjusted pricing

[brainfartalerts]

Making Garbage Cores

Garbage cores are not magic. They are a simple approach to producing open cell cores with inexpensive materials that are compatible with epoxy resins. There is nothing that limits this to using corrugated paper so if you feel a wild hair coming on.....
First things first
Create your board design. It is easy to start with a typical 3/8" flat board design however, for this example, we'll look at producing a more difficult project using multiple thick nesses to produce a contoured core that provides additional strength over the length of the board.
Material Selection - choose non-waxed paper products. I score my boxes from the UPS stores that get sleeves of cardboard for use for a variety of chores. Hit the dumpster or just ask.
Whatever you wind up with, run a resin check to make sure you get a good bond.
Cut multiple strips for the core. I use a mat cutter that can be set for various widths.
This particular core features 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" strips that will be arranged to corrugate the corrugated core.

Next, lay out the project dry to make sure of spacing, alignment and overall fit. I have created a cheap-o layout board with 1" increments that can follow the project through to lay up on the mold.

The pic above with my hand illustrates that sometimes layout is governed by how easy it is to work the form when it winds up on the bench or in the bag later on.
When the layout appears to be correct, wet the bottom surface cloth out as shown.

Good idea to choose the surface that will wind up on the mold for the bottom. When you lay your work up, you'll be able to slide the stack onto the mold from the layout board.
Transfer the dry layout onto the wetted cloth. At this point you'll want to wet out additional elements like the stringers seperately then add them into the layout.

When arranged, cap the stack with another wetted surface cloth.

You are now ready to install the stack in the mold. You'll want to be careful at this point especially if you are incorporating extra elements like the stringers as shown along with profile elements that will show up in the finished product.
Carefully draw down the pressure arranging the stack as you go to make sure alignment is maintained.


Wait.
Tap your toes.
Go off and wait for it to cure.
............................................
Later
Remove from the mold and check.

A bit of drip-age at the bottom of the corrugations but otherwise the cells look pretty clear.

Appears to line up pretty well and feels a bit lighter as well.
Ogle
This core is for the new Trashmanian Devil. It features rocker, concave and a corrugated longitudinal oriented bottom surface of the core that should help create flex instead of mush for large humans.
Tomorrow the core will be shaped and bonded to the deck surface.
Post
Be happy to add more details.
Later
Brian

[SteveC]

A press needs to account for the thickness of the board...
Otherwise the middle of the board receives less pressure than the outside.
This is one of the things missing from the toothless site. And is from what I've gathered one of the keys to making good boards.



This is an exaggeration of what happens. but you can see the difference between the two very clearly this way...

This goes for drops too!

This can be achieved manually. By using a compass set to the boards thickness and making tons of half circles on the other side of whichever curve you want to be the platforms concave, or the topside of a drop.

You really need to make templates of both sides of this curve and trace it onto your clamps. Rather than spending 6 months with a compass..

Hope this helps you!
Happy building.

[Loki440]

Just a link to my one tutorial

How to build a board, vacuum bagging style, from mould making to board finishing

[TIMORNE]

Bolt hole template tip
I took the templates I found here on the fish and printed them to a sheet of Avery label,cut it out,check the measurements,stuck it to the center line of my deck and drill or cut out for drop thru.Works great and thanks to everyone that helps keep this forum going and building the stoke.

[SteveC]

Can't remember who posted this first. But I think a link belongs here.

Bike pump to vacuum pump conversion (instructables)

[SteveC]

though this could live here comfortably





This is obviously an incomplete design, it needs a wood base to keep all these clamps in the right place.
And the end clamps are lacking wood across the tops with bolts.
It's probably too long.. oh and the concave is all wrong....
Also the gap between the concave and the drop might not be wide enough, not sure.

Still it's a lot better than I could explain with words.
it's also untested by me personally, but it follows tested rules.

Edit
I will also add that a drop this extreme probably require individual veneers.
which then leads me to think that the clamps need to be a lot closer, or solid even.

The solution that jumps to mind is to not drop as far and/or drop through as well.

[SiR]

Composite sandwich skateboard - The World's Biggest Show & Tell - ride, life, diy This has a lot of helpful info and good step by step directions.

[brainfartalerts]

Happy New Year Feeesh!

The bolt hole template has been updated as of 01012008


The change log:

1. - Metric measurements included
   
2. - Bore hole diameters have been included
   
3. - A ghost outline of a nominal base plate has been added
   
4. - The DS Boardsports lizard logo has been watermarked

The new template looks like this:



Click on the image to open the PDF drawing for printing.

Remember to turn off scaling when printing the template.
Check against the index lines of the template to assure accurate print-outs.

Double check everything and please let me know if you catch something.

Thanks,
Build well and often.
Brian

If you are interested in purchasing template stickers, a cut sheet of 6 stickers may be purchased for $2.25 by clicking on the link below. This price is for US shipping only. If you are ordering from outside of the US, please contact me for adjusted pricing