Entry thread for Build Off Contest #2

[Turfsurfer]

Woo! I am super happy with this one!
The build was inspired by all the research I've been doing into guitar making, particularly the rosettes around the sound holes of flamencan guitars. All of the wood is recycled leftovers from construction sites, the lighter stuff is oak and the darker stuff is either mahogany or cherry, my dad couldn't remember from which floor it was left over. I apologize in advance for the long post, but it was a long process.

The dry layup to start off with (i thought i had pics of cutting out all the blocks, but i seem to have lost them)


Starting to glue up the chevrons, stripe by tedious stripe
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...g?t=1209423279

Close up of this aspect of the layup


Laying up the center of the deck


Binding the chevrons (laying them up? i dont know what to call it)


Laying up the components


rough planing


Cut and routered


Doing my best to impress the finish guru's (not my forte)


And the finished product!
top


Bottom


And the super-cool angle


I love it, I'm not really sure what kind of board it is. Its 36" by 9" and I've got it set up to be super maneuverable, so perhaps a GS board? I haven't actually cone-wiggled before so i don't know how good it would be for that, but its definitely a fun ride. Its like the cadillac of my quiver, super stylin.

[thomasberg]

niceeeeeeeeeee

[SteveC]

This is a competition entry thread, please refrain from critiquing the boards here...

[Turfsurfer]

seriously? no crit? Why not?

As for the strength of the chevrons, the wood will give before the glue does, all the glue lines were tight fits and the woods are good strong hardwoods, i'm not worried about it. Its no my main board and it should hold up for a while under the level of abuse it receives.

[thomasberg]

makes sense

[SteveC]

seriously? no crit? Why not?

As for the strength of the chevrons, the wood will give before the glue does, all the glue lines were tight fits and the woods are good strong hardwoods, i'm not worried about it. Its no my main board and it should hold up for a while under the level of abuse it receives.

I just think the boards should stand alone.
If you read the post it was a reaction to (which has been edited, thanks), particularly in light of your own it should seem clear.

That said, I don't set the rules, so It's just my opinion.

[thomasberg]

I respect that

[mlsk8rat]

special wood master secret

i used 2 inch thick wood( 8/4 rough lumber), with the wood on edge i cut the wood on the horizonal plane on my band saw.you can put rocker or camber in the deck if you like. i made the deck flat. thats an awkward description, a quick drawing would be clearer.

[carczar_84]

Alright, So here is my entry for the contest. I had never build a longboard before this. A friend of mine and I were talking about work one day (I work at a cabinet/ custom woodwork shop) and he gave me the idea of trying to build a v-lam longboard. It sounded like fun so I searched the forums here and the internet for idea of what I wanted, and here is what I came up with. I hope you all like it.

Template and Choosing the Material
Below you can see my original drawing of the board, followed by the 1/4in template that was made from the drawing. Next I chose the wood. I used fall from a few of our last cabinet jobs in the shop, so my woods of choice were Walnut and Hickory. The board is 44 x 9.75 in.





The Glue-up
Glued up the smaller sections separately first. When these were dry, I planed then flat and to 11/16in thick. These sub-pieces were then beveled on the edges and biscuited together. The beveling of the edges was used to give the board concave, something I found many v-lams do not have. The following pics show the glue-up process.




Shaping and Finishing
After coming out of the clamps the board was sanded to give it a smooth curved concave. The blank was rough cut on the band saw next. Then the template was used with a flush trimming router bit to cut to the final shape. A 45deg bevel bit was then used to finish of the shaping of the board.





Finishing and the Final Product
The board was finish sanded to 280 and a pre-cat lacquer was used for the finish (our standard cabinet finish, VERY durable). The board was equipped with Gullwing Charger 180's, and Sector 9 74mm, 78A wheels.








I hope you all like it, I am really happy with how it turned out. The deck rides really nice, with just a little bit of flex. It was a lot of fun to build, I am totally hooked on building decks now.

[jwmcw]

I hope you all like it, I am really happy with how it turned out. The deck rides really nice, with just a little bit of flex. It was a lot of fun to build, I am totally hooked on building decks now.

I read the critiquing part...after I posted a critique....sorry...so.. this board.. is a board...

[Turfsurfer]

Looking good all around guys, i'm really surprised there havent been more comments with the level of work thats happening in a lot of these entries.

Oi! 'Fish! No crits does not mean no comments, we like to hear what you like, and dont want to wait for the votes to get feedback.

[Jam]

First Ever Angled Vertically Laminated Skateboard. Evar.

At least as far as I know....

















Wood: Walnut, Cherry, Mahogany, Maple, and Oak

Glue: Tightbond III

Finish: Miniwax Polyurethane

As one can see, the glue up is not technically vertical. It runs at a slight (4 degrees) angle, which creates a very visually appealing effect.

The board is 30 inches long and about 9.5 inches wide at its widest point.

The angles were somewhat dificult to get exact, and trigonometry proved useful.

My corps of tools consisted of:
Grizzly Drill Press
Dewalt Table Saw
Dewalt Miter Saw
Bosch Belt Sander
Portercable and Hitachi Orbital Sanders
Portercable Router
Delta Portable (12 1/2 inch) Planer


The finish is not in resemblance to a mirror or to a pane of glass, but it does, however, resemble good old wood.

I was very satisfied with the layup, particularly the walnut/cherry layup and the maple's contrast.

Hopefully this will inspire some new ideas. If this has never been done...I darn well should be patenting this.

I am not much a camera man, but I hope one can get a decent understanding of the board.

BTW....I ride this WITHOUT the griptape without shoes.

Technicalities for mods and organizers:
I am missing a picture of it in the press. It dissapeared. I really hope I can still compete.

Thanks for looking everyone.

[thomasberg]

sorry to burst your bubble but it definately has been done b4

[Jam]

Sure, sounds reputable....I believe you completely.

[Turfsurfer]

dude, +1 on the finish looking like wood and not glass, wood beats glass any day of the week.

[nightskateboards]

night skateboards wins...


way to go everett!

now whens my speedboard version of that going to be done?

to anyone interested in twitches boards... contact me... teh sales rep of teh centurie

[arcane]

Trying to sell boards in a competition entry thread? Really? Might be better suited in another thread.

[Everett McCord]

yea jake no need for that

this is just all around fun!!!!

[mlsk8rat]

i made two boards, chose the warptail stinger fish to enter just cus it's more fun to say than 77' retro. it's 29 1/4 x 10 x 5/8. it has mahagony and maple panels with cherry nose, tail blocks and rails. kept it clean and simple, i was thinking about nice street rods and how the ones i like best are uncluttered.
i tried to caption the pictures but that apparently is beyond my computer skills so here is a breif rundown on the build: i cut the warptail for the two main panels from 2"x 5"x 29" lumber on my bandsaw. then cut them on the diagonal. flipped the nose pieces upside down and switchrd them side to side. made a continous blind spline at the joint of the diagonals. working together the spline and diagonal made the joint nearly as strong as a single piece. clamped the 4 panels for 35 min. next i cut out the shape as accurately as possible on the band saw so i could use the fall off when i clamped the rail bands. each rail was 3 strips 1/8" thick. i didn't want a hard shot on the nose block to send the energy straight down the rails maybe compromising the lamination so i joined the nose and tail blocks on a dingonal as well. it also looks cooler and was worth the extra effort. to chase the clean look as far as i could i did not drill thru the deck to mount the trucks and instead used threaded inserts. i woodburned ML with my branding iron (for sheep, don't ask) under the front truck plate, had to have a graphic somewhere. vinyl sealer then 4 coats pre-cat laquer on bottom and 3 coats with tread tex on deck. i finished up mounting gullwing sidewinders with gravity street g wheels and oust moc 9 bearings. it's a sweet ride, so sweet that i rode it so much after i finished it i had to sand and refinish it for the pictures. 6 more pictures in next post because i am a computer retard and can't figure out how to get all the pictures on this one. sorry.
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[thomasberg]

A bunch of your attatchments lead nowhere, I can't see them.