Fiberglassing without a bag 101

**Superguitarninja** · 04-05-2009 11:09 PM

Originally Posted by teetop15

how do i glue fiberglass inbetween the board?
do i just apply the resin on both sides and make the glass is wet?

On the board I am working on, I put fiber glass in between two pieces of wood. When I did it, I put my bottom board down, epoxied it, laid on the glass, laid on some more glass (I did two layers), epoxied that some more to make the glass wet, then epoxied the top board. Threw that mess in the press and waited. So far it's worked great. Just make sure and rough up the inside parts of your boards to make sure the epoxy will stick.

I'm a beginner too, so if anyone has anything to add or take away from this, please do.

**JohnsonCity** · 04-13-2009 12:34 PM

Here is my no cents. Go to West System's website and order a (free) subscription to Epoxy Works magazine and all their other free educational publications. Put them in the magazine basket by the toilet. Enjoy.

**Geeezer** · 04-18-2009 04:42 AM

Originally Posted by ryanredbaron

others have ordered from the one i linked, but ill go with your company. Warp just refers to it being a knit instead of being just loose fibers i believe

Yup! Its a weaving term... Warp and weft are the vertical and horizontal fibres in a weave... Or maybe they just really like Star Trek...

**spenthurrr** · 05-07-2009 05:17 PM

does the glass really have to sit for a week after you lay it on?

**flannelman** · 05-07-2009 06:52 PM

no. it really depends on your epoxy. i wait 24 to 48 hours. the epoxy gets hard quickly, but then it needs to set. i really depends of the temp. after a few hours in the noon sun, the epoxy shouldn't be tacky anymore, but it isn't cured! so leave it over night. it will take a couple of days to get it to fully harden, but it will be movable after the first night.

**samk115** · 05-11-2009 12:21 AM

Thanks heaps for posting this guide! was just down at the hardware store today trying to figure out how to do it, and couldnt.

Trusty old fish, always has everything you need!

**Maxx** · 05-11-2009 03:54 PM

Well I've seen alot of info on here about epoxy, resins, etc... but what about glass?

For example, I'm making a 1/2" thick poplar vlam board. I was thinking about FG reinforcing it. I know I should use something with a 45 degree angle, S glass is better than E glass, but I still don't know what to get as far as the knitted vs woven glass, and how heavy of glass to get. Anybody know?

**flannelman** · 05-11-2009 04:00 PM

Originally Posted by Maxx

Well I've seen alot of info on here about epoxy, resins, etc... but what about glass?

For example, I'm making a 1/2" thick poplar vlam board. I was thinking about FG reinforcing it. I know I should use something with a 45 degree angle, S glass is better than E glass, but I still don't know what to get as far as the knitted vs woven glass, and how heavy of glass to get. Anybody know?

Fiberglass Fabrics: TAP Plastics

Peruse this site. they have all the information on their glasses there.

I use the 12" Tape. it is heavy, and thick, and easy to use because all you need to do is cut for length, and the edges are fused so they dont fray while handling.

**Maxx** · 05-13-2009 10:41 PM

I just did a test run with some biaxial with West System on some 2x4. After it dries should you feel the fibery texture, even though all the resin is absorbed? Do you sand it?

**flannelman** · 05-13-2009 11:00 PM

Originally Posted by Maxx

I just did a test run with some biaxial with West System on some 2x4. After it dries should you feel the fibery texture, even though all the resin is absorbed? Do you sand it?

yes you should be able to see and feel the FG texture. if the epoxy has wax in it, then you would need to sand the coat you have right now. you dont want to go overboard, but sand the surface, and file off the edges. use a respirator, or mask or something. breathing glass shards is not a good thing. after that you reapply a coat on top this is you finishing coat. this is the coat that you are going to finish, and possibly wet sand.

I use TAP Plastics Surfboard Polyester Resin for FGing. i hate the smell, but it contains UV blockers so it wont yellow, and the stain wont fade over the years, and it is clear. also it is half the price of most epoxies. the downside is that when you mix it with the catalyst it releases toxic fumes.

**Elektriksurfer** · 05-25-2009 01:48 PM

it is "cooking" i hope that works i have some concernings about the epoxy resin stick well to the wood

Some images the press and design

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/4757/updatea.jpg

**phil6x** · 05-25-2009 02:47 PM

so your using carbon fiber on that board?
post pics asap!

**Elektriksurfer** · 05-26-2009 04:19 PM

Originally Posted by phil6x

so your using carbon fiber on that board?
post pics asap!

Only in the stringer as the image shows

**Elektriksurfer** · 05-26-2009 04:34 PM

Originally Posted by Superguitarninja

On the board I am working on, I put fiber glass in between two pieces of wood. When I did it, I put my bottom board down, epoxied it, laid on the glass, laid on some more glass (I did two layers), epoxied that some more to make the glass wet, then epoxied the top board. Threw that mess in the press and waited. So far it's worked great. Just make sure and rough up the inside parts of your boards to make sure the epoxy will stick.

I'm a beginner too, so if anyone has anything to add or take away from this, please do.

I have done the same, i think that is realy important to give first of all only epoxy to the wood and let that stuff cure, so that when when you star glassing the wood will not absorve more resin including from the fiberglass.
This way the wood is going to be more resistance too because as pre treatment with epox.

Correct me if im wrong

**Elektriksurfer** · 05-26-2009 04:37 PM

Originally Posted by Superguitarninja

On the board I am working on, I put fiber glass in between two pieces of wood. When I did it, I put my bottom board down, epoxied it, laid on the glass, laid on some more glass (I did two layers), epoxied that some more to make the glass wet, then epoxied the top board. Threw that mess in the press and waited. So far it's worked great. Just make sure and rough up the inside parts of your boards to make sure the epoxy will stick.

I'm a beginner too, so if anyone has anything to add or take away from this, please do.

I have done the same with 2 layers Fb 10 oz .
i think that is realy important to give first of all only epoxy to the wood and let that stuff cure, so that when when you star glassing, the wood will not absorve more resin including from the fiberglass. The wood is very purose and will absorve lots of resin, this way the wood is going to have more resistance too.

Correct me if I am wrong

**bob0974** · 05-26-2009 07:25 PM

I was going to use the 6 oz e glass here Fiberglass Cloth for my 32 inch BB shortboard (6 play that i want to be flexy under my 120pounds[im still growing.. so not 2 flexy])

I'm sort of rethinking my decision. my other option was the 6oz s glass. Will that be too stiff or will that be good?

btw I am doing 1 layer fb on top of the deck and 1 on bottom

**Elektriksurfer** · 06-01-2009 04:43 PM

Final steps glassing the botom the board is already stiff so i will not aply fiber to the top!

[IMG]

Shot with SGH-E250 at 2009-06-01[/IMG]

**flannelman** · 06-01-2009 05:31 PM

Originally Posted by Elektriksurfer

Final steps glassing the botom the board is already stiff so i will not aply fiber to the top!

[IMG]

Shot with SGH-E250 at 2009-06-01[/IMG]

looks good. i guess you are going for that natural finish.

**gnidnu** · 06-01-2009 05:38 PM

Cutting the shape after glassing makes things a lot easier. If you cut the shape first, you'll be having trouble cutting the fibreglass along the shape. If you do it alltogether after glassing, it'll be much easier to shape.

Also, laying a fabric on a pre-cut shape may cause annoying crinkles.

**Nafertikus** · 06-23-2009 01:19 AM

Originally Posted by gnidnu

Cutting the shape after glassing makes things a lot easier. If you cut the shape first, you'll be having trouble cutting the fibreglass along the shape. If you do it alltogether after glassing, it'll be much easier to shape.

Also, laying a fabric on a pre-cut shape may cause annoying crinkles.

Would you cut the board in the same way you'd cut a non-glassed board? In other words, do you have to take the glass into consideration when cutting, such as fraying or splintering?

Either way, thanks for your input! I'll try this out on my next board.