A couple of issues. I can't recommend the extruded polystyrene foam any more. It is just too fragile. And, I've come across some issues with gas release from the foam.
My issue with the layup, is that the only longitudinal oriented fiber are half the fibers in the S-glass. The biax will provide longitudinal resistence to strength, but at a disadvantage. A -30/+30 may work better here over -45/+45 knitted setup.That biax, I believe, has some chopped mat stuff, which simply adds weight without resistence to stretch. Also, if the biax is 17oz, you're not saving much weight over 20 triax.
Ok, have you found any better options to the blue board or would you just say balsa for now?
What if I used 4oz next to the core so from top to bottom the layers went 6oz, biax, 4oz, core, 4oz, biax, 6oz.
I really want to you the biax because it is an E-glass and will require MUCH less resin while providing the longitudinal resistance. I've been told against using to much chopped mat... would woven roving be a better option than the 17oz biax?
Ok, have you found any better options to the blue board or would you just say balsa for now?
What if I used 4oz next to the core so from top to bottom the layers went 6oz, biax, 4oz, core, 4oz, biax, 6oz.
I really want to you the biax because it is an E-glass and will require MUCH less resin while providing the longitudinal resistance. I've been told against using to much chopped mat... would woven roving be a better option than the 17oz biax?
My point regarding this is to avoid cloth with mat, chopped, what-have-you. Avoid the stuff that has no directionality. You want biax without the extra stuff. You want the stuff with fibers oriented in purposeful directions. If you already have that biax, then us it, it may do just fine. If I were you, I'd maybe try just the biax alone. Then shape it and mount the trucks, and see how it behaves. You can ad the S-glass over it if need be (Just sand down the biax a bit).
The pink stuff (and I believe the blue as well) is extruded polystyrene. The stuff people usually use is polyvinyl chloride foam (I believe). I going to be trying some polyethylene soon. It is much more solid. I'll let you know how it is.
Endrain balsa is, I'm told, excellent. Very light as well. Not sure about its resistence to compression. Poplar, and similar light woods are good choices as well, as they are very light (c/w woods) and strong. You won't get under 3# with poplar though. Balsa, probably yes.
__________________
If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do.
- Warren Miller
Tomorrow may rain so I'll follow the sun.
- The Beatles
My point regarding this is to avoid cloth with mat, chopped, what-have-you. Avoid the stuff that has no directionality. You want biax without the extra stuff. You want the stuff with fibers oriented in purposeful directions. If you already have that biax, then us it, it may do just fine. If I were you, I'd maybe try just the biax alone. Then shape it and mount the trucks, and see how it behaves. You can ad the S-glass over it if need be (Just sand down the biax a bit).
The pink stuff (and I believe the blue as well) is extruded polystyrene. The stuff people usually use is polyvinyl chloride foam (I believe). I going to be trying some polyethylene soon. It is much more solid. I'll let you know how it is.
Endrain balsa is, I'm told, excellent. Very light as well. Not sure about its resistence to compression. Poplar, and similar light woods are good choices as well, as they are very light (c/w woods) and strong. You won't get under 3# with poplar though. Balsa, probably yes.
Where do you buy/order polyethylene or polyvinyl chloride? and are you suggesting that I simply make a foam mold and do the biax just like wood in a thin air press? no core? I'm not even sure where to start thinking about the processes and dimensions for that.. I never considered it... would it still be stiff? or just slightly flexible?
Where do you buy/order polyethylene or polyvinyl chloride? and are you suggesting that I simply make a foam mold and do the biax just like wood in a thin air press? no core? I'm not even sure where to start thinking about the processes and dimensions for that.. I never considered it... would it still be stiff? or just slightly flexible?
Sorry, I didn't catch this reply, KCcarvin.
Pink or Blue insulation (I used pink here) I wouldn't use. It is polystyrene.
Spyder foam is an extruded polystyrene that has long grain directionality and is stronger than the blue pink junk. It has been used as a core successfully, not by me. Buy some here Core Materials::CST-The Composites Store, Inc.
Extruded poly vynil chloride foams are probably the strongest of the bunch, and also, by far, the most expensive. Some are also designed to withstand high temperatures, allowing construction with prepregnated composites that need to be heated. Examples, Corecell, divynicell. Buy some here Fiberglass Supply (Surfboards, Windsurfers, Kayaks, Canoes, Boats , Autos and more).
Polyethylene foam - I haven't read much about it. But I'm willing to try anything anything. In all seriousness, the stuff is rigid and seems robust. Our Materials
Concerning the construction and layup, you need to search for foam core layups and see what has worked for others in detail, specifically cap construction. Good luck.
__________________
If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do.
- Warren Miller
Tomorrow may rain so I'll follow the sun.
- The Beatles
Well, I rescued this from the DL. I laminated some glass across the tears and believe or not, it is rock solid. I also lowered it and radiused the wheels. Really stable and fun to ride.
Currently working on the next version with better foam and carbon. I have never used carbon, but unrolling that twill and laying eyes on it for the first time . . .
__________________
If you don't do it this year, you'll be one year older when you do.
- Warren Miller
Tomorrow may rain so I'll follow the sun.
- The Beatles
Re: New deck, DH, foam composite, cheap stuff.
Linear Mode
