Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

[TIMORNE]

Bolt hole template tip
I took the templates I found here on the fish and printed them to a sheet of Avery label,cut it out,check the measurements,stuck it to the center line of my deck and drill or cut out for drop thru.Works great and thanks to everyone that helps keep this forum going and building the stoke.

[SteveC]

Can't remember who posted this first. But I think a link belongs here.

Bike pump to vacuum pump conversion (instructables)

[SteveC]

though this could live here comfortably





This is obviously an incomplete design, it needs a wood base to keep all these clamps in the right place.
And the end clamps are lacking wood across the tops with bolts.
It's probably too long.. oh and the concave is all wrong....
Also the gap between the concave and the drop might not be wide enough, not sure.

Still it's a lot better than I could explain with words.
it's also untested by me personally, but it follows tested rules.

Edit
I will also add that a drop this extreme probably require individual veneers.
which then leads me to think that the clamps need to be a lot closer, or solid even.

The solution that jumps to mind is to not drop as far and/or drop through as well.

[SiR]

Composite sandwich skateboard - The World's Biggest Show & Tell - ride, life, diy This has a lot of helpful info and good step by step directions.

[brainfartalerts]

Happy New Year Feeesh!

The bolt hole template has been updated as of 01012008


The change log:

1. - Metric measurements included
   
2. - Bore hole diameters have been included
   
3. - A ghost outline of a nominal base plate has been added
   
4. - The DS Boardsports lizard logo has been watermarked

The new template looks like this:



Click on the image to open the PDF drawing for printing.

Remember to turn off scaling when printing the template.
Check against the index lines of the template to assure accurate print-outs.

Double check everything and please let me know if you catch something.

Thanks,
Build well and often.
Brian

If you are interested in purchasing template stickers, a cut sheet of 6 stickers may be purchased for $2.25 by clicking on the link below. This price is for US shipping only. If you are ordering from outside of the US, please contact me for adjusted pricing

[ryanredbaron]

How to make a skateboard deck

cool website, not sure if its been mentioned....

[brainfartalerts]

Originally Posted by brainfartalerts

I would like to purchase maple veneer tailings.
For those who may not know, a veneer tailing is extra un-bonded material left off when sizing blank stock prior to layup.
If you have any pieces 6" across the grain by 10" with the grain or larger, I can use them.

Why?

Don't need clean face for stringers and rails so material gets joined with a scarf.

You get rid of scrap for a few pennies on the dollar and I get cheap material.

I can also turn pieces of scrap into usable lengths and roll them back to you if you are stuck for material.

This can be done for most materials including Baltic Birch.

Interested parties should txt msg 804.986.8611 or email brian@feralarts.com with "Recovered Materials" in the subject line for details.

Will get something together for how wood is being joined and what it is being used for over the next few weeks.
As for now, adios sweet fish - much work.
Later,
Brian

[DarkRider]

just found an awesome place to buy ricepaper. 60feet for 20$ Japanese Crafts, Rice Paper Rolls, Chinese Craft Supplies, Rubber Stamps

is this the right one? anything that would work better?

[Ted]

If you are making a custom deck using a TAP this is a must, to have a look at.

Foolproof Diy Skateboard Foam Mold Build

Ted

[SteveC]

I think this belongs in here.
by the wefunk-meister
Vacuum-laminating a cap-construction 101

[SteveC]

Ted's (from roarockit) drop-deck tutorial.

:: DROP BOARD BUILD

sweet read, also belongs in here.

[Cranks]

Originally Posted by Loki440

you mena 1 1/2" screws

and the flat one that are counter sunk are called flat socket cap screw well the allen key ones at least

cause allen key are better that phillips anyday

then again robertson are better than allen key, but thats where henry ford comes in and developes the philips style screw head because he didnt want to pay the royalites to the Canadain inventor who held the paten for the robertson style head which was and is better than philips

robertson sucks balls, it strips easier than any other type of screw. you crazy!

[SteveC]

water press.

Originally Posted by Davdoodles

"How did you attach the glass to to the bottom?"

Thus beginneth the lesson:

1. Sand the wood lightly.

2. Apply graphics as above, using epoxy. You can either wait until it's dry, then light sand again, and move on to the next step or, if you are confident (I've done it a few times with boats I build), do the two steps together.

3. Lay a layer of epoxy onto the wood (and over any graphics), allow it to soak into the wood for a few minutes (this ensures the glass will be bonded into the wood, and will never de-lam). Re-spread it so there is even coverage again. Carefully lay down the glass onto the wet epoxy (an extra pair of hands is useful at this point - also, leave extra glass around the edges - it can be cut off later) and use a flexible scraper to squish the epoxy up and into the glass, and to remove any excess epoxy. The glass should end up being damp, rather than saturated (otherwise the glass 'floats' off the wood), but uniformly transparent.

4. at this point, you can do one of two things: The first is the easiest: Just walk away, let the epoxy set, and add a coule more layers of epozy later to build up a level surface. The second is tricker, but saves time and weight later on: Build a water-press.

5. A water-press is a variation on vacuum-bagging for people like me who don't use powertools (I hate the noise and dust - woodwork should be mediative, and involve wine, music and quality hand-tools. Ahem, I digress.)

Build a frame of offcuts (say 1.5m long, 45cm wide and 30cm deep, reasonably strong, but doesn't have to be too elaborate). Place the board in the bottom, with the glassed side up (in fact, it's easiest to leave the board where it is and bring the frame down around it...). Place a layer of heavy-ish clear plastic sheeting over the board, extending up and over the sides of the frame, all the way around. Then, into the 'bathtub' formed by the plastic sheet and frame, pour water, gradually at first. As the water pushes the plastic sheet down onto the board, ensure that there are no wrinkles oveer the board's surface (or induced into the slippery glass/epoxy layer) . Once satisfied that the plastic is smooth across the glassed surface of the board, add more water (15-20cm is plenty) to press uniformly down onto the glass/epoxy surface of the board. This does two cool things: it squeezes any excess epoxy away (out to and over the sides of the board), and it presses the glass and epoxy into a shiny-smooth surface requiring no additional filling etc. Do it right and you can simply light-sand it and spray varnish... Do it wrong, however and it willl root the board - eg if you don't support the board carefully, the pressure can twist it into wierd, and permanent shapes, or if the glass/epoxy layer slides, large and horrible blobs and bulges can result.

I suggest experimenting before doing it on a labour-of-love board. Also, master the easier method above first....

6. Leave the press for a few hours, until the epoxy is stiff-plasticky but not completely solid. There will undobtedly be blobs of squeezed-out epoxy which are much easier removed before it gets rock hard. You can also trim the excess glass off at this point too.

Glass, properly bonded to the deck, gives maximum strength. Any more epoxy than you need can actually decrease the strength/stiffness of the composite, and add weight.

This has been a public service announcement!
.

[SteveC]

fridge-pump vacuum system. Joewoodworker.com

dream-models-vacuumpump

[Isotope666]

I got a question for all you expert longboard builders out there. I recently purchased a gas-powered longboard. When i got on it, I found that after you hit about 15 mph you start to get a "speed-wobble." I need to fix this, because I like to go fast. I figure it must be that the springs under the board are not stiff enough for my 155 lbs. I could use some help figuring out what springs to buy. Anyone have some answers? If you do, e-mail me at Augusthewriter@gmail.com I would greatly appreciate it. I'll try to check this forum as much as possible too.

[c-n-s]

can any one tell me the main reason for concaving the center of a board on a longboard or short cruiser is it realy needed

[brainfartalerts]

A soft launch of a bolt-hole template update.

Was working up some template sheets when a few questions popped up:

- What if you have a finished board and run into problems where truck base-plates, wedges and pads stick to the finish? (as has happened to me countless times...)

- What if you want to just lay the template down during construction and be done with it?

Well, for those who have ordered template sheets and have agreed to check out the answers I came up with to those questions, here goes.

Base Plate Deck Guard Template 200807140930 is a streamlined template that presents all of the information within a standard baseplate foot print. Print this onto a clear adhesive transfer sheet, trim off the extra and lay it down on the center line of a finished deck at the bolt hole spacing of choice. Using a sharp brad point drill, bore through the adhered template. When finished, you have a transparent plastic finish guard under the base plate.

The Bolt Hole Laminate Template 200807140932 is a reverse image of the template above. Print this template onto rice paper (or your semi-clear image laminate medium of choice) and trim any additional material from the edges. Using a wood glue (over bare wood) or resin, apply a thin layer to the deck at the position the template will be placed. Lay down the template image side down and work the adhesive along with any bubbles out from underneath the template. If using rice paper or something similar, wet the top-side of the template and work the adhesive into the image until the rice paper becomes semi-transparent.

Those of you with pending template orders will receive samples of the two templates listed above to try.

If anyone else is game, feel free to print these off, give them a shot and let us know how it worked for you.

Thanks,
Brian

[jspats40]

This is a good tutorial about fiberglassing without a bag. It has some decent pictures and such.

Fiberglassing Without a Bag.

[jspats40]

i saw this searching and thought it would be sweet.

How to add graphics in the vacuum bag

it looks sweet.

[ericmohahaha]

Do you absoultely have to apply varnish or epoxy after spray painting a board, even if it was previously varnished before spraypainting. What happens if you don'T
thx