Here are the links to posts, threads and resources the Board Builders on the 'fish have accrued over the years. Check them out --there's great knowledge in these pages!
These link to active threads that we can still all post to, and that used to be "stickies". If you'd like to nominate one we missed to be included here, post a reply to this thread or PM us.
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"The Longboard Consortium". We ride it, we abuse it, we love it and we write about it.
Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas
you mena 1 1/2" screws
and the flat one that are counter sunk are called flat socket cap screw well the allen key ones at least
cause allen key are better that phillips anyday
then again robertson are better than allen key, but thats where henry ford comes in and developes the philips style screw head because he didnt want to pay the royalites to the Canadain inventor who held the paten for the robertson style head which was and is better than philips
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The only competition in this game of life is yourself. And once in a while, someone touches your imagination and sparks a dream.
Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas
interesting info about the robertson there loki... didn't know they were of canadian origin. i really like that format though not only because of its sturdiness but also for the square peg/round hole statement they seem to make.
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Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas
well the thing i like is what other type of traditional style screw can be held onto a screwdriver without aid of a magnet, and even with magnets you know how poorly that works out, but robertsons definately come in handy if you are ever one handed and need to screw something in as the screw will stay place on the driver and you will actually be able to put force behind it without it floping over (like a flat head or philips)
oh also for those that dont know robertson screw drivers are ALL color coded, so instead of fumbling around in your tool box looking at the tips to find the right screw driver you can just reach for a red handled one or the green handled one depend on what size screw your using.
i should also say that henry philips is the one who designed the philips screw but it was for henry ford and his production lines
so that whole henry ford thing is the only reason why you see the philips screw today, even thoe the robertson screw is better, is kinda like the whole vhs and beta thing of old, or the whole blue ray vs hdDVD that is happening right now
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The only competition in this game of life is yourself. And once in a while, someone touches your imagination and sparks a dream.
Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas
The bolt hole template has been cleaned up and normalized.
What does that mean?
The older template was indexed to real world examples of base plate drillings.
While the length of the bolt hole spacing remains the same at 2 1/8" and 2 1/2", the accepted design layout for the width of the bolt hole spacing differs from the older template measuring out at 1 5/8".
The drop through outline has been stripped off.
The new template looks like this:
Click on the image to open the PDF drawing for printing.
Remember to turn off scaling when printing the template.
Check against the index lines of the template to assure accurate print-outs.
If you are interested in purchasing template stickers, a cut sheet of 6 stickers may be purchased for $2.25 by clicking on the link below. This price is for US shipping only. If you are ordering from outside of the US, please contact me for adjusted pricing
Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas
Making Garbage Cores
Garbage cores are not magic. They are a simple approach to producing open cell cores with inexpensive materials that are compatible with epoxy resins. There is nothing that limits this to using corrugated paper so if you feel a wild hair coming on.....
First things first
Create your board design. It is easy to start with a typical 3/8" flat board design however, for this example, we'll look at producing a more difficult project using multiple thick nesses to produce a contoured core that provides additional strength over the length of the board.
Material Selection - choose non-waxed paper products. I score my boxes from the UPS stores that get sleeves of cardboard for use for a variety of chores. Hit the dumpster or just ask.
Whatever you wind up with, run a resin check to make sure you get a good bond.
Cut multiple strips for the core. I use a mat cutter that can be set for various widths.
This particular core features 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" strips that will be arranged to corrugate the corrugated core.
Next, lay out the project dry to make sure of spacing, alignment and overall fit. I have created a cheap-o layout board with 1" increments that can follow the project through to lay up on the mold.
The pic above with my hand illustrates that sometimes layout is governed by how easy it is to work the form when it winds up on the bench or in the bag later on.
When the layout appears to be correct, wet the bottom surface cloth out as shown.
Good idea to choose the surface that will wind up on the mold for the bottom. When you lay your work up, you'll be able to slide the stack onto the mold from the layout board.
Transfer the dry layout onto the wetted cloth. At this point you'll want to wet out additional elements like the stringers seperately then add them into the layout.
When arranged, cap the stack with another wetted surface cloth.
You are now ready to install the stack in the mold. You'll want to be careful at this point especially if you are incorporating extra elements like the stringers as shown along with profile elements that will show up in the finished product.
Carefully draw down the pressure arranging the stack as you go to make sure alignment is maintained.
Wait.
Tap your toes.
Go off and wait for it to cure.
............................................
Later
Remove from the mold and check.
A bit of drip-age at the bottom of the corrugations but otherwise the cells look pretty clear.
Appears to line up pretty well and feels a bit lighter as well.
Ogle
This core is for the new Trashmanian Devil. It features rocker, concave and a corrugated longitudinal oriented bottom surface of the core that should help create flex instead of mush for large humans.
Tomorrow the core will be shaped and bonded to the deck surface.
Post
Be happy to add more details.
Later
Brian
Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas
A press needs to account for the thickness of the board...
Otherwise the middle of the board receives less pressure than the outside.
This is one of the things missing from the toothless site. And is from what I've gathered one of the keys to making good boards.
This is an exaggeration of what happens. but you can see the difference between the two very clearly this way...
This goes for drops too!
This can be achieved manually. By using a compass set to the boards thickness and making tons of half circles on the other side of whichever curve you want to be the platforms concave, or the topside of a drop.
You really need to make templates of both sides of this curve and trace it onto your clamps. Rather than spending 6 months with a compass..
Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas
lol
anyways
Linear Mode
