i know . my disclaimer about my computer skill was honest. i got a message to see an administrator. but i can't even figure out how to do that. a 14 yr. old kid on another forum helped me out. thanks to him,
more pics now....maybe IMG_1575.jpg
since i seem to have achieved a minimum level of competence posting pictures. here are a couple more, some of the board i didn't enter. 77' retro, i knocked off my little brothers pro model IMG_3590.JPG
Not too sure what I think of the mounting things though, I think you'd be better off with holes all the way through.
thanks, it's like a hot rod, gonna cruise the boardwalk on saturday afternoon not for racing.a lot of the time you sacrifice a little capability for vanity.
Hello together,
this is the second board we made, my girlfriend verena and me.
It began with a piece of teak, what was laying around here for some years here.. and i asked a carpenter for a garbage-ledge of maple for the two-stripes.
NEVER TAKE TEAK!! it's too oily!!
we stranded serveral times while glueing. the final solution was with polyurethane-glue.
Construction:
Some of the pieces have 2,5º on the sides to add concave to the board.
They have been glued together with the help of strong transparent adhesive tape.
On the back a full layer of tape to keep them together,
and on the concave side the tape was dragged with lots of tension from one side to the other.
so with this technique we could add to the board a solid concave without having to sand it all out of a big block.
But we sanded a lot yet for the shape and the finish. approx. 12 hours.
Specially for this board we modded some Randals to 116 mm and made a unique alu-finish with a sandblaster.
The finish of the board is beeswax.
The testride .. it was amazing.
4,5 minutes
50 meters.
like on clouds, ride in heaven.
superstiff, almost no flex.
the trucks ... awesome.
Yeah, I'd still worry that they will pull out in a hard turn though. How did you anchor them?
i sometimes use them in furniture pieces that you can disassemble and put back toghther. if you drill too big a pilot hole or use them in a softwood they can wallow out the hole and loosen up.they hold really well in hardwoods and i test the hole size in a scrap piece of the wood. i start with a smaller drill bit and work my way up in 1/64 inch increments until the insert threads in. it is a very tight fit and in a hardwood i have never had one fail. i wouldn't do it on a bowl board or speed board but for a street cruiser it works just fine. they make one with a straight screwdriver slot and one that inserts with a allen key. the allen key works better and steel or brass choose steel. it was not a haphazard decision there is some experience and testing behind it. thanks for the question, sorry about the long winded answer. p.s. use lock washers.
Well, heres my entry. I have been looking forward to this build off. Great to see that people are pushing ideas and having fun.
This board I designed to be a good all round board, carving, board walking, handle a little bit of speed and general cruising.
Deck specs:
Length: 41 1/2" , 1054mm
Width: 9 1/2" , 241mm
Some nice Paua inlay in the top logo.
One of the lightest deck I have made. Cant tell you how much as I don't have any scales.
And INDESTRUCTIBLE!
I have a solution to the problem of v-lam cracking along the grain. It is a simple and easy way to fix this problem. While still having a full wood deck, and not compromising any appearance. This makes a stronger, lighter and flexier v-lam deck. This deck made with this construction method, is indestructible to cracking along the grain. It also makes a more torsionally stiff deck, making for more control and precision through turns.
Anyway, here is some pictures:
Here I have planned down some of the 'rough saw' Rimu (native hardwood) into some nice pieces.
Cut into various strips using my table saw. Turned out the blank was reasonably wide. About 10" I think, plenty to play with. Order from left to right; Rimu, Ash, Mahogany, some sort of South American hardwood, I got from a local boat builder who couldn't remember the name..
Now I prepare all glue joins for gluing, make sure they are clean and true. I use a New Zealand made polyurathane based adhesive, which I have found to work great. A few clamps, some grad wrap, and some aluminium to spread clamping force.
Blank is then planned down in the thicknesser.
I trace the template on and cut with my trusty jigsaw. Leaving some 'spare wood' outside off traced line for shaping. Then shaped with my weapons of choice.
Now comes to the differ cult task of making a v-lam stronger along the grain without fiberglass......NOT!! It is real easy!!
I router a 28mm strip out of the bottom of the cut blank(this can be done with a table saw, drop saw, chisel....). And cut a strip of mahogany to fill its space. Glue and clamp, then plane down level, then carry on with normal shaping process. Router edge, sand...
I then give a few coats of clear, logos, dimensions...
I have also inlayed paua shell (shell fish special to New Zealand, amazing shell) into my logo ontop.
Then wet sanded smooth.
Then a few more coats of clear, and griped with 12mm strip grip. I think this works real well, provides a real grippy grip, and doesn't cover up too much wood grain.
And some completed pictures, and yes for those critics, I know there is no nuts on the hardware. I just put the trucks on for photo's as I was going to get some nice new wheels and trucks for this board. I'm thinking Gullwing chargers and some Big Zigs or maybe the new tunnel Tarantula's?
These photo's don't do this deck justice, being so glossy, it was really hard to take a photo of.
Top view
If you are intrested in owning your own Sugar Board, you can contact me on :sugarboards@hotmail.com about decks, I can also do custom orders.
pete, interesting shape and design, very creative, excellent craftsmanship, sucks that it cracked, do you think drilling fewer holes wouldve prevented that?
Sugar boards are doooooooooooooooope good call on the extra crossgrain piece will
you could always strip it down, and fiberglass two layers of 0 degree glass. i had a deck that did that, and i epoxied the crack and fiberglassed it, and its held up phenomenally. awesome board tho
I took two pieces of maple one red oak and my plan was to build a board with no power tools and i did it successfully. Every shape was shaped with a hand saw or hand plain. The board has been ridden for about a month and has been a great cruiser/carver. grip tape is the Nashville skyline and the words say "you'ur the God of this city King of these people" all cut out by hand with a raiser blade.
Re: Entry thread for Build Off Contest #2
Re: Entry thread for Build Off Contest #2
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