So no vacuum bag was used...? Cool. That would mean your epoxy was pretty thin in consistency in order to impregnate the glass.
Which resin did your use?
Did you heat cure?
I don't have access to a vac bag. So I opted to follow this tutorial. I used poly resin and woven cloth. nope, I didn't heat cure.
You should always wear a respirator - and keep it in it's supplied zip-loc container, because the cartriges don't expire "with use", they expire with oxygen exposure! You can find respirators cheap at any hardware store - even ones that aren't disposable. Keep it around for spray painting and other stuff - it's just a good thing to have, especially for those of us banished from our garages into the basement workshop in the wintertime...
Weight is a concern that I haven't see mentioned here.
The main advantage of vacuum bagging is that it draws excess resin through the peel-ply, leaving your laminate maximally dry - the resin that remains is what is needed to make the product stiff.
To oversimplify - the resin that saturates the fabric/mat provides rigidity. Resin that is just stuck to other resin basically just adds weight (if not surface spidering/crackling).
So if you do it this way, you might have twice the fiberglass weight than if you did vacuum bag it.
Structurally there's no penalty - I've never done a skateboard using 'glass, but in most of the fiberglass fabrication work that I've done (save for a carbon/kevlar rotary vane that had a serious weight concern), 'bagging wasn't necessary, and the end product wasn't compromised from a structural standpoint...
...but it seems a skateboard might be something where weight would be a concern.
At least it certainly is for a shortboard... and race boards are lightweight I know.
i glassed my board using this method. while cutting out the excess, some of the edges delaminated. then i rode it a couple of times. the edges delaminated more and i decided to pull out the whole layer of glass to redo it again. apparently, the whole thing didnt stick to the wood >.<
i used poly resin and woven cloth. what could be the reason for this? not enough sanding? maybe the cold weather?(it was raining when i did this)
sadly, roarockit is not an option for me because i live in the philippines. i'll try glassing it again and see if anything improves. thanks for the help though.
sadly, roarockit is not an option for me because i live in the philippines. i'll try glassing it again and see if anything improves. thanks for the help though.
I got mine shipped to me, here in New Zealand. Well worth it.
Sorry to hear the fibreglassing turned out badly, I'm surprised that the resin didn't stick to the wood at all. Did you have some kind of paint/stain underneath it? Is it a particularly waxy or moist wood? These are the only things I can think of, otherwise the resin should go straight into the wood. The only experience I've had with resin not going on well is when putting a protective layer over a gloss paint. It ended up the same as when you pour water over wax. However, it still stuck to it. I wonder if your resin has started to go past it's best? This is another possibility.
i was wondering if anyone had any tips for applying epoxy on a board with lots of concave and a kicktail, because i recently did this and on the top some of the epoxy kinda puddled in the middle, and on the bottom some dripped off the sides.
the only thing i could think of was maybe letting the epoxy sit for a little while before applying so that it wouldnt run as much. or after waiting a bit heat it up so that its thin and goes on evenly but wont run since it will soon go back to room temerature.
i was wondering if anyone had any tips for applying epoxy on a board with lots of concave and a kicktail, because i recently did this and on the top some of the epoxy kinda puddled in the middle, and on the bottom some dripped off the sides.
the only thing i could think of was maybe letting the epoxy sit for a little while before applying so that it wouldnt run as much. or after waiting a bit heat it up so that its thin and goes on evenly but wont run since it will soon go back to room temerature.
thats a good question. what are you trying to do? put on grip?
thats a good question. what are you trying to do? put on grip?
yea on top i put on grip. it turned out ok but theres like a 2in stripe down the middle where the epoxy pretty much covered the tread tex. i also put epoxy on the bottom to protect the board to protect it. the board can be seen here
Last edited by SpeedDemon974; 08-16-2008 at 09:57 PM..
yea on top i put on grip. it turned out ok but theres like a 2in stripe down the middle where the epoxy pretty much covered the tread tex. i also put epoxy on the bottom to protect the board to protect it. the board can be seen here
when i clear grip i use polycrylic and tread tex. it works really good if you do a lot of coats. like coats with tread tex being sprinkled on and one on top for sexiness. it has good grip. plus it doesn't puddle.
Nope, I didn't paint or stain it before glassing. Thinking back, I may have made a mistake in sanding. I think my sandpaper was not coarse enough that the surface of the board turned smooth. another reason may be I didn't wipe the dust enough after sanding. the last one is the least possible cause; i bought my resin just recently.
I haven't tried again though, I'm still waiting for the weather to improve. I hate tropical storms! haha. Thanks for the help!
said this before. But I have glass and carbon if any one wants to buy some pm me. I'm also a laminator so I have a lot of experience with glassing. Shoot me an email if you wan to ask a question. I don't get on the fish much any more. Dkofnrc@gmail.com
DK
Lowes or Home Depot. I paid 15$ for a tub of resin and 6$ for fiberglass cloth. I haven't tried it yet but I heard you can lay wax paper or parchment paper on top to get a smoother surface. I also recommend buying a 97 cent plastic putty knife instead of a credit card, if you're doing a large surface.
Re: Fiberglassing without a bag 101
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