My press, My method, a "How to" guide.

[hoch92000]

Well, over the last few months, using Baltic birch wood, I have been experimenting with different wood presses, testing different shapes, designs, forms, and press designs. I have assumed a taste for carving boards, and most recently been trying to achieve a simple press to create that coveted concave/camber shape with just the right balance of curves this way and that, with just the right flex. The right press design should produce a reasonable product consistently, be easy to use, and easy to make without requiring much precision. My press will be presented from start to finish with a “How to” approach.

Why not just get a Roarocket Kit and vacuum press it? I don’t know. I guess I am just obsessed with the medieval urge to press down with screws, nuts, and bolts. The whole idea is sick.

I will stop here and say that, I, like many of you, hate reading a lot of words, so, you can probably just review the images and, with some insight, get the gist of this thread. For others that wish to hear the whole story, and discuss some board making theory (don’t worry, no numbers/equations), read on.

A carving board should have some flex therefore; camber is advantageous to offset the bend in the board. Concave obviously holds your feet better, therefore, IMO, the concave/camber design works best. The press should be easy to use in that, there shouldn’t be several screws to fiddle with, and should not have too many elements or variables.

I have tried a number of rib presses for this form, and have always had some form of waviness. Probably any ribbed press will, regardless of the number. In addition, the precision required making those individual ribs identical or to the specified shape is extremely difficult. Although, I have seen some unbelievably precise wooden creations on this site. But alas, I only have a jigsaw and a belt sander. No band saw. Certainly no CNC machine or computer design program. I suppose my craftsmanship is a bit lacking as well.

This press design is essentially a combination of Brodie’s two presses. I know several folks before and after Brodie have created similar presses, but I’ll use his an example mainly because his were some of the earliest that I was exposed to.

My latest Press - a slide deck (lots of photos) This flat concave press (with or without kicks) is a simple design that achieves concavity by pressing down the middle lengthwise

Lush Longboards: View topic - The Brodie Press This press is indeed a concave/camber press using three longitudinal ribs. I have tried this, and the result was good but the concave was somewhat V-shape (my cuts were not angled). In addition, it is harder than it looks to create three long (36-42”) ribs, flush against each other to the exact specifications required. This is a testament to Brodie’s skills, and anyone who has recreated this.

What if we took the simplicity of the “press-down-the-middle” press and applied it to a camber shape. By bending a simple concave press over camber, if you will.

Fig 1: Let’s not list everything you will need. I hate recipes. Let’s just star with a jigsaw, drill, 2” by 12” by 8’ pine (A), 2” by 8” by 8’ pine (B), and two 1” by ½” by 36” runners (these are poplar and are actually about 1 ¼” in width). You will also eventually need some rulers and a belt sander. Note; the 2 by 12 is actually about 11” wide.

Fig 2: Now for a little methodology. The camber should be strategically shaped to best resist flattening. When standing on a board, it bends, with most of the pressure in the middle of the board. This is where overflexed boards eventually snap. Therefore, the board must work the hardest in the middle to resist bending. Or in other words, the camber must be most curved at the middle (think of an upside down “V”). Maximal concavity should reside at the point of inflection. This should also provide for the least amount of snap back. I am not sure how to explain this mathematically, but it just makes sense. A rounded shaped camber will snap back more and provide less resistance to flattening. Incidentally, this is the camber shape achieved with the toothless method is employed. Weighting the middle of the board causes most of the bend to occur right under your weight. I know, Enough already. On to the picture. Take a relatively flexible piece of wood, in this case, a 3/8” by 1” by 45” strip of pine wood from the home depot trim section. Screw in three wood screws such that the strip of wood can be placed between the two outer screws (over the strip) and the middle screw (under the strip) such that the curve rises approximately 1.5 inches over 45 to 48 inches or so. You will lose about 50% due to snap back if using 1/8” BB with 3/8” to 5/8” concave. So you say, 1.5” giving 0.75”? Is that all? I have made two previous similar presses, 1st with 3.5” and 2ndly with 2.75”, and both resulted in too much camber. I have found that for camber, subtlety is king, and less is more. 0.75” of camber is plenty. For 1”, start with 2” of rise. Onward.

Fig 3: Mark the camber curve on the board and cut. Use this cut piece as a guide for the other piece B to give you a total of 2 F pieces and 2 E pieces. Screw the two F and E pieces together as shown by the arrows. Now, and this is key, drill a pilot hole through the wood before screwing any of the wood screws in, otherwise they will cause the wood to crack. The screws are 8 by 2.5 inch exterior wood screws from Home depot. Drill a hole slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws.

Fig 4: Now this is the only part of this that requires some precision. The surfaces must be sanded a bit such that when the F pieces are placed on the E pieces, they are flush. Take your time and do it right.

Fig 5: The F pieces will forever remain screwed together. Unscrew the E pieces and screw them down to the long 2 by 12, piece A, such that they are aligned and flush with the side of piece A. Piece G will be used soon.

Fig 6: This is the underside of piece A, showing screws through the bottom of A into pieces E.

Fig 7: Piece G goes across the middle flush with the top of piece E. This will prevent the plywood roof from sagging (piece H) in the middle during the press process. Pieces J will have a similar task on the ends.

Fig 8: Cut a 3/8” plywood piece such that it is as long as piece E and as wide as piece A. Place it onto the two E pieces. Take your two side strips (pieces C) and lay them along the side of the plywood roof. Use clamps to press them down onto the E pieces. While pressed, screw the strips (piece C) through the plywood (piece H) into the E pieces. The arrows note screws.

Fig 9: Piece J is shaped like the end of piece E. Instead of pieces G and the 2 J’s, you could have made a third E piece, but I guess I was just lazy, and anyway, this is easier, and works just fine. I am all about easy. Note that my C pieces are about ¼ too fat so the ¼ inch over hang will be jigsaw off later, resulting in 1 inch wide side strips. Ah, the F pieces are so flush.

Fig 10: How about another look.

Fig 11: Now for the clamps. Clamps K are simply pieces of 2 by 4, well wider than the press. 3/8” screws 24” long with nuts and washers are used to couple the top to the bottom. Make sure your holes are well wider than the screws; ½” wide for 3/8” screws. Clamps L are similar. The wood pieces are 2 by 2’s from a prior press. Why waste good wood. For pressing 1/8”BB, 2 by 2’s are fine. For pressing ¼” BB, using nothing less than a 2 by 4’s, unless you want splinters poppin’ you in the head.

Fig 12: This is taking a long time. Finally, 4 layers of 1/8”BB in the press. If I can remember, I like to use some wax paper under the wood to prevent gluing my board to the press.

Fig 13 and 14: Some more looks at the press.

Fig 15 and 16: A look at the pressed blank. Less pressure will give less concave.

Fig 17 and 18: An unfinished shape. Notice the hourglass cutouts in fig 18. There are often questions regarding flex and WB. One can adjust the WB to affect flex. IF you are like me and want a WB of 32-33”, you are not going to be to crazy about lengthening your WB to get flex. Just make some hour glass cutouts to increase your flex. 1st, cut your shape, then place on the trucks or blocks, and cut until the desired flex is achieved. This will also give more torsional flex. This is going to be a drop through for a friend.

Fig 19-22: These pics depict the press with double kicks and the pressed blank. You guys are experts now so you can figure out the rest.

I am going to press two double kicks, one for a drop through and the other a topmount. Finished pics will be shown hopefully soon. The cutting/finishing/graphic/gripping method is an entirely different animal. Perhaps another time.

I hope this helps somebody. Happy building.

[arcane]

Awesome, great job. This will be one of the first threads I direct new people to that are looking for an easy yet effective press design. Well done man.

[onedorsfirew]

I've actually thought about doing this exact idea for a press but haven't taken the time to actually make one. I'm still experimenting with a lot of things in V-lam, but I'll be getting some baltic birch soon to try out some new ideas as well.

the shaped of the pressed board looks amazing! I think you should post some finished boards too! this definitely inspires me, as well as other people I'm sure. great job!

[ielongboardman]

primo dude that looks like a great press you incorporated a bit of camber and some concave i like it alot very nice board too

[Doc Frye]

Sweet build, hoch. Thank you for documenting your build process so clearly. This will help many builders in the future.

[hoch92000]

Thank you, gentlemen. I truly believe that someone trying a first build can construct this and press some nice boards. It seems like a lot of steps, but it is more or less realtively simple to build. Goes to show how a pic is worth 1000 words. If someone else tries it, let me know what you think, and please give me your improvements and tested failures.

[hoch92000]

Sorry guys, this is Brodie's concave/caber press.

toothless press problems

[.secrets]

hows the flex on this bad boy?

[boardingkaos]

First off, what is that awesomely fun looking green bigwheel looking thing in figure 5?

Second, Great build and walkthrough, hows the board?

[hoch92000]

Originally Posted by .secrets

hows the flex on this bad boy?

I turned the 1st board into a dropthrough. It's not finished yet. The flex is perfect. In my mind, the perfect flex for your weight, is that which causes a cambered board to go flat, or slightly below flat, when standing on one foot in the middle of the board. When cross stepping, one foot is placed in the middle and too much flex makes the move impossible. And placing one foot in the middle causes the most static stress on the board.

[hoch92000]

Originally Posted by boardingkaos

First off, what is that awesomely fun looking green bigwheel looking thing in figure 5?

Second, Great build and walkthrough, hows the board?

That's a Green Machine. I had one when I was little as well. They kick a$$. Good for slides as well. There was this other similar toy, I think it was called a Cheetah. It was similar to the Green Machine, except it was propelled by pressing your feet forward on two pedals rather than turning a front wheel.

[jspats40]

great how too. press is easy and effective. good job.

you can screw the baltic birch plys that are sticking out in figure 12 together. just for the whole board to be used.

[cam_bell]

hoch, youre the man, but...
this press can only make one kind of board. great for a first build, maybe someone trying to mass produce one kind of board. and you can change length/ wheelbase/width but you will have the same camber and concave on every board you make.

that being said, this will probably produce boards more consistently and reliably than a press like mine, and this will not cause steps/waviness. versatility is a virtue in presses imo.

great thread

my press
First Press

[hoch92000]

Originally Posted by jspats40

great how too. press is easy and effective. good job.

you can screw the baltic birch plys that are sticking out in figure 12 together. just for the whole board to be used.

Good idea. I was simply using the inner 45" of this board so I disregarded the outer 6" on each end.

[hoch92000]

Originally Posted by cam_bell

hoch, youre the man, but...
this press can only make one kind of board. great for a first build, maybe someone trying to mass produce one kind of board. and you can change length/ wheelbase/width but you will have the same camber and concave on every board you make.

that being said, this will probably produce boards more consistently and reliably than a press like mine, and this will not cause steps/waviness. versatility is a virtue in presses imo.

great thread

my press
First Press

Thanks Cam_bell. You've got that beautiful monster of a press.

This press is somewhat modifiable though. The concave can be slightly adjusted by altering how far down one presses. Go for the full 1/2" or hold back for about 3/8". Or simply replace the side runners with a 5/8" piece for more concave (I would not advise this). One could press down the middle with only one F piece or two (or three for that matter). Regarding camber, I truly believe that there is probably a perfect amount of camber. I haven't found it yet. It's probably between 0.5 and 1.0" Once I find it, I won't change it.

For a no camber board, I'd just flip the press over and put side runners on the other side, then use a 2 by 4 to press down the middle, like my Speedboard press.

[funkpod]

great lookin' press! Hey, question to all you builders,

i've built a coupla boards w/ my toothless press, and i was wondering if it is better to build a press w/ the ribs going perpendicular or parallel to the board?

aka is it easier/better to build a press that the ribs are going like

My Press!

or like the one above?

[basstard]

That post was REALLY long. But cool none the less(if thats one word..idk)

[boardin'mormon]

wow thanks for the great walk through very insightfull for me, and i can actully build it! thanks!!!!!!!!

[cam_bell]

Originally Posted by funkpod

great lookin' press! Hey, question to all you builders,

i've built a coupla boards w/ my toothless press, and i was wondering if it is better to build a press w/ the ribs going perpendicular or parallel to the board?

aka is it easier/better to build a press that the ribs are going like

My Press!

or like the one above?

aw hell. thats a gigantic and possibly controversial question, one that I know hoch has thought about many a time, as you can see by the 5+ presses he has built. basically, having ribs perpendicular to your board (like your first press or mine) can give you "stepping" or "waviness". if you try to make too much camber or rocker, the flat surface on a rib on the curved surface of your board will create level spots with angled spots between them, rather than the nice consistent curve you're aiming for. how about you try both and tell us what you think?

[funkpod]

i think for my next press i'll try using the parallel ribs, it will actually take a shorter amount of time than making all of those smaller ribs if i measure it out correctly. will be posting pics onc e i'm done!