After some harder cornering/drifting/sliding this morning, evrything was A-OK. Smooth drifts with decent traction. (Side note- those old black 66mm superballs are butter when they're broken in). The only issue I had was after each corner, when I'd pop back up into my tuck and straighten out, It felt like the pivot was shifting back into place. Which I wouldn't doubt, as I didn't get the geometry entirely perfect, and the pivot is buried pretty deep in the UHMW. Like I said, these plates were made with a sawz-all and cordless drill.
I was running my plate in the rear, and a dewedged Indy in the front, still on the Alpine setup shown earlier. I'm anxious to try some more setups and shoot some vids, when I ever find the time.
Now somebody needs to full on produce these bad boys!
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injured fish member number 1
[Derv] 11:30 pm: kai is a sexy mofo
Derv] 12:48 pm: i would love a titty fvcking
[jkpvilla] 1:18 pm: If I live on my own though
[jkpvilla] 1:18 pm: I'll probably just be naked all the time
[Alpha06] 2:26 pm: if you gave derv a cnc machine and told him to make a truck , big 80s would be the result
yeah, if the price is right.
i'll let him know...because i want a set of the plates too.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mile_High_Mark
People need to quit worrying (or even caring) about which company is cool, or core, or whatever label you want to pin on them. A lot of so-called "bro-brah" companies are run by assholes.
I love the way Indys turn so much. With this new plate, it still feels like I got an Indy back there- response-wise. The turn is just slower, as you would expect. I'm not sure they turn enough to run a pair on a 32"+ wheelbase board without wedging, I still have some more riding to do, but I'm thinking no, unless you wedged them. I could be wrong, though. I'm really thinking an easy setup would be on something like a Caften or Chinook, where the front is wedged and the back is flat. 1/2" riser would definitely be in order to not be too low. On a Niko you could run a pair and pos wedge both ends, and I think it would work pretty well. On a straight topmount or drop-thru, I think you could run one of these in the rear, and a stock Indy front. Or a front stock plate dewedged, and this plate pos. wedged in the rear. It may be better to make this plate the same height as a stock indy, so it would be easier to run them together. I don't know. A lot of options.
I think they would be perfect run as a pair on a smaller WB topmount though, like the smaller S9 race, or what I'm doing here on my chopped Alpine.
Also maybe adding a spherical or two (as Josh suggested earlier) would make these super responsive, with a low angle KP (Smoky, Jimz, Rad). Down the road though.
Interesting.
I love the way Indys turn so much. With this new plate, it still feels like I got an Indy back there- response-wise. The turn is just slower, as you would expect. I'm not sure they turn enough to run a pair on a 32"+ wheelbase board without wedging, I still have some more riding to do, but I'm thinking no, unless you wedged them. I could be wrong, though. I'm really thinking an easy setup would be on something like a Caften or Chinook, where the front is wedged and the back is flat. 1/2" riser would definitely be in order to not be too low. On a Niko you could run a pair and pos wedge both ends, and I think it would work pretty well. On a straight topmount or drop-thru, I think you could run one of these in the rear, and a stock Indy front. Or a front stock plate dewedged, and this plate pos. wedged in the rear. It may be better to make this plate the same height as a stock indy, so it would be easier to run them together. I don't know. A lot of options.
I think they would be perfect run as a pair on a smaller WB topmount though, like the smaller S9 race, or what I'm doing here on my chopped Alpine.
Also maybe adding a spherical or two (as Josh suggested earlier) would make these super responsive, with a low angle KP (Smoky, Jimz, Rad). Down the road though.
Interesting.
i actually have a full alpine surf right now waiting to be chopped into a S9 Race
i dont really think theres anything wrong with a UHMW if enough surface area and thickness it can hold up pretty damn good
I really dont see why you guys are trying to make the DH oriented Indy plate so much lower. Its not about being low.
You should make it so that the new plate is the same height as if you were running a normal indy plate on a sharp 10* pocketpistols / khiro riser. The main reason running the riser is lame, is because when you really crank over hard in a turn, the riser flexes and smushes, changing the turn ability and reliability of the truck.
I really dont see why you guys are trying to make the DH oriented Indy plate so much lower. Its not about being low.
You should make it so that the new plate is the same height as if you were running a normal indy plate on a sharp 10* pocketpistols / khiro riser. The main reason running the riser is lame, is because when you really crank over hard in a turn, the riser flexes and smushes, changing the turn ability and reliability of the truck.
Nah, Max. Being low was never a goal for me. The reason for the single block construction was to keep it simple, something I could make with the tools I have. I could care less if it's lower than a stock Indy. I thought being low as a result of the simple design would appeal to some people as well. But now that I've thought more, being the same height as a stock Indy plate would def. be more beneficial.
And I agree with Highwind about the UHMW. It's tough as hell, especially the way I've got it now. Besides, It's used plenty in more stressful applications than a silly skate truck.
No no, im not knocking your proto by any means, im actually very impressed and think its pretty badass. All the talk previous was about trying to make the ride lower, which just has way too many problems attached to it, wheelbite, footbite, etc.
Making it the same height as a normal indy would be good, but i think the little bit more height would be just a tad bit more optimal, so that its the same height with the riser, they are still lower than other reverse kingpin trucks, just getting that tad bit more turn/lean/clearance would be that much better, plus being one solid piece like i said before helps with the smushing of risers.
PLEASE DO MORE THAN JUST NEW SCHOOL, I'm sick of redrilling stuff!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tagsrover
shout out to the kids
I Support: Madrid - Independent - Venom - Khiro - Purethane - Bones - Modern Skate and Surf
Go Green Longboarding - Team Gnarkadark - Red Dragons - Team Gnarwhal
Bomb hills, not exams.
Streetheap, forgive me if you'd have to repeat yourself all over again--I'm pretty messed up already with all the technical-geometric-longboard-mechanical-engineering-jargon lol. I just want to clarify some things that I've digested (however difficult).
Q #1: The ideal setup would the UHMW truck in the back and a regular indy truck setup on the back? Would it be possible to run Indy Heaps both front and back or does it defeat the whole purpose? Also, since it's basically an "already dewedged" indy truck, then it's gonna work well with latenite's reverse KP front and dewedged indy rear setup right?
Q #2: As for the Indy Heaps on the alpine, the KP length is at 2.25" and so far it can't be longer than that right? I'm just really worried about the shortness of the KP. What if you "drop" the area where the bushings sit to accommodate a longer bushings given the case it'd be impossible to extend the KP. Sorry I have no idea on how the KP is inserted through the plate and on what bushings you're using so I couldn't determine the bushing height.
Apologies for the noobiness!
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Re: Indy DH plate
I'm really thinking an easy setup would be on something like a Caften or Chinook, where the front is wedged and the back is flat. 1/2" riser would definitely be in order to not be too low. On a Niko you could run a pair and pos wedge both ends, and I think it would work pretty well. On a straight topmount or drop-thru, I think you could run one of these in the rear, and a stock Indy front. Or a front stock plate dewedged, and this plate pos. wedged in the rear. It may be better to make this plate the same height as a stock indy, so it would be easier to run them together. I don't know. A lot of options. 
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