Bennett base plates

**speshlspeclsteak** · 10-22-2009 09:19 AM

looks dope... dh extended bennetts? i think so

**Camel** · 10-22-2009 11:17 AM

Those are a gorgeous sight Dave. You found your niche for sure.

"Cennett" plates.... (pronounced senate), I think that works...

C

**fatesepics** · 10-22-2009 11:44 AM

I ordered a bennet 4.3 a few days ago (havnt gotten it yet). What would be the benefits with a cindy plate the at the same degree as the bennetts? And what would be the pros/cons of lower and higher angle plates for LDP/pumping?

**Camel** · 10-22-2009 11:48 AM

See www.pavedwave.org, click on "gear". Huge reference there.
Higher angle, quicker and more efficient pump.

**fatesepics** · 10-22-2009 11:52 AM

would a... 20* cindy plate=bennettplate+10* wedging?

**Camel** · 10-22-2009 11:56 AM

From Dave's description and the design spec, yes. That is exactly what is being done.

**Petary791** · 10-22-2009 12:22 PM

**Barf** · 10-22-2009 01:41 PM

10Hangars?

**SoloRider** · 10-22-2009 01:48 PM

I assume the kingpin is captured on the bottom by a relieved hex? If so you can sign me up for the first 20* plate, ready to pay as soon as you've got 'em.

**Sandwich** · 10-22-2009 02:21 PM

Originally Posted by Camel

Those are a gorgeous sight Dave. You found your niche for sure.

"Cennett" plates.... (pronounced senate), I think that works...

C

Lets call them "Cinnetts"
I like that.
So from what I gather you all would be more interested in like a 15, 20, and maybe like a 25 degree king pin, giving you 15 degrees of wedge. I could go up more if thats what you all want.
Your thoughts please.

Dave

**Petary791** · 10-22-2009 02:42 PM

Truth, more is better. Which leads me to my next point... 25º Cindys?!?!?!?

**SoloRider** · 10-22-2009 03:37 PM

Originally Posted by Sandwich

Lets call them "Cinnetts"
I like that.
So from what I gather you all would be more interested in like a 15, 20, and maybe like a 25 degree king pin, giving you 15 degrees of wedge. I could go up more if thats what you all want.
Your thoughts please.

Dave

I'm currently running 22* of wedging on my LDP deck and really like that setup. Starting out at 10-15* already would be great, it'll mean less wedges but still still needing a soft 1/8 or 1/4 to avoid bite. The thing I'm really interested in with this is being able to use a 3.75"(I think) grade 8 cutting all but 1/2" of threads off and running it with the nut captured by the baseplate. Since Bennetts use a knurled KP stock, there's some play with a standard grade 8 and the uncaptured KP means you need to go to JBW to hold the nut in place, not the best for sure. Anyway 20 or 25 for me, whatever you come up with first.

**Gearfire** · 10-22-2009 03:49 PM

Originally Posted by SoloRider

I'm currently running 22* of wedging on my LDP deck and really like that setup. Starting out at 10-15* already would be great, it'll mean less wedges but still still needing a soft 1/8 or 1/4 to avoid bite. The thing I'm really interested in with this is being able to use a 3.75"(I think) grade 8 cutting all but 1/2" of threads off and running it with the nut captured by the baseplate. Since Bennetts use a knurled KP stock, there's some play with a standard grade 8 and the uncaptured KP means you need to go to JBW to hold the nut in place, not the best for sure. Anyway 20 or 25 for me, whatever you come up with first.

By this do you mean that you want only enough threads on the KP to lock into the nut, and keep as much threadless KP as you can going through the baseplate? Are you wanting to flip the KP to avoid clipping it on debris from the wedging tending to make it stick out alot over the hanger? Thing is, there is still the head of the KP, and I don't see how flipping it will get you anymore clearance than having the nut hanger-side and making it fit flush...

**FaceVsAsphalt** · 10-22-2009 04:01 PM

Originally Posted by Gearfire

By this do you mean that you want only enough threads on the KP to lock into the nut, and keep as much threadless KP as you can going through the baseplate? Are you wanting to flip the KP to avoid clipping it on debris from the wedging tending to make it stick out alot over the hanger? Thing is, there is still the head of the KP, and I don't see how flipping it will get you anymore clearance than having the nut hanger-side and making it fit flush...

I would imagine less threading as to keep from shredding bushings either way you put the KP through.

**[(Erik)]** · 10-22-2009 04:10 PM

would it be possible to raise the height of where the kingpin goes through the baseplate to allow us to use aftermarket bushings without any spacers?
ex:
[Orig bp
nut/washer
bushing
hangar
bushing
more bushing
washer
baseplate

new Bp
NUt/washer
bushing
hangar
Bushing
washer
Baseplate
More baseplate

idk if that makes sense to any1

**loserplayer** · 10-22-2009 04:15 PM

i am all in for a 25* Cinnett!!!!
those are stooopid sick

**Gearfire** · 10-22-2009 04:22 PM

Originally Posted by [(Erik)]

would it be possible to raise the height of where the kingpin goes through the baseplate to allow us to use aftermarket bushings without any spacers?

That's an idea, but then it wouldn't fit Khiro cone and barrel combinations anymore. I think the original height is perfect, for the same reason you can't make a truck too low. You can always add riser, but you can't take away any inherent height from geometry unless you alter the board.

**SoloRider** · 10-22-2009 06:04 PM

Originally Posted by Gearfire

By this do you mean that you want only enough threads on the KP to lock into the nut, and keep as much threadless KP as you can going through the baseplate?

Yes, that's exactly what I'm talking about. There's a couple reasons I like this setup. I like to flip the kingpin so that when the KP does get chewed, it's just the head of the KP and not a Nylok and the KP threads that are getting chewed, makes it easier to get things apart later. By cutting the longer bolt down to use as a KP I get the threads buried in the baseplate maximizing the cross section of the of the bolt where it experiences the most stress, right at the top of the baseplate. Lastly, by having nothing but shoulder in contact with the bushings they don't get chewed the same way they do on a normal setup.

I've got a couple of bent kingpins to prove that the standard setup wasn't working for me and I've only been riding LDP for a few months. My current KP setup has been going strong for the last month or so with no signs of trouble. The biggest downside is that I have to go to the trouble of JB Welding a nut to the underside of the baseplate, and that just plain sucks.

**Chrispy23** · 10-22-2009 06:34 PM

I'm running 22* on the front also for my LDP so the 20-25* plate would be good. I've had the JB crack so I went back to the regular KP config and figured I'd just cut/replace after it wore down. I've also broken bolts and splintered deck holes, so any improvement is better.