Making Otang Bushings

**FL_RIDER_93** · 11-09-2009 08:43 PM

Originally Posted by Matt C

I like how you have o-tang bushings on trucks with bigzigs

Oh yeah dude everyone knows your board wont work if you do that. Its like putting unleaded in a diesel pickup.

**Justin K** · 11-09-2009 09:17 PM

I hear they aren't that good actually.

**jackal_lantern** · 11-10-2009 12:57 AM

Originally Posted by Bombsquad_Manny

Otang bushings would be a good idea i'm pretty sure thats what all the exploding core batch is gonna end up being turned into.

Ha, I can just imagine them all sitting in a room with all the recalled wheels and that idea popping into their heads.

Loaded Newsletter: coming soon "Orangatang Nipples"

**Matt C** · 11-10-2009 01:02 AM

Originally Posted by luftywaffles

The above statement does not make any sense whatsoever.

Im just saying since everyone argues about which is better, and he has both brands on the same truck...

**urbanasultvehicleuav** · 11-22-2009 12:15 AM

sweet im gona do this with a lime bigzig

**NoBullCrapp** · 04-25-2010 05:09 PM

respect the tangs...not drill holes in them.

**UltyHuck13** · 04-25-2010 05:15 PM

congrats on reviving a 6 month old thread. lol.

**NoBullCrapp** · 04-25-2010 06:13 PM

Originally Posted by UltyHuck13

congrats on reviving a 6 month old thread. lol.

I try. save the monkeys!

**lancerrr** · 04-25-2010 06:36 PM

that poor wheel... it was too young to die

seems a bit much i would rather buy some

:

Originally Posted by jackal_lantern

So, I know there are threads out there about how to make bushings from wheels, but hopefully this one is a bit different in that I found some little details that make sure you get a full set of good bushings the first time you do it even though some things may seem like common sense. Also, it is specific to Otang in heats.

What you need:
1) Holesaw (1 1/8")
2) Zip ties (if you don't have vice grips)
3) 3/8 drill bit
4) hack saw
5) belt sander (for those of us without a lathe)
6) Mask (urethane dust is bad stuff)

Step 1: If you don't have vice grips mounted on your work bench, drill two holes that you can loop a zip tie through. the zip tie will go through the wheel and fasten it to the bench while you are drilling. I also used a door stop to keep the wheel from rocking when I was drilling the preliminary hole.

Step 2: Once wheel is fastened, measure 1cm in from the inner wall of the wheel (specific to in heats) and draw a line. This is where the urethane is thickest and it will be the outer edge of your bushing. with the holesaw, drill 1/4 to 1/2 way through the wheel at a medium speed, not forcing the drill too much or the urethane will melt and gunk up your bit.

step 3: take the 3/8 drill bit and drill all the way through the wheel and core in the center hole made by the drill bit of the hole saw. If you try to drill this hole before the holesaw, your bushing may not be centered. If you try to drill it after, it will just spin and not drill through correctly.

Step 4: finish drilling your hole all the way through the core. the section of wheel is now probably stuck in the hole saw and is very hot. Just grab some pliers and twist it out or be a man and twist it out with your fingers.

Step 5: cut the section of core off the urethane with the hacksaw, try it keep it as straight as possible.

Step 6: If you don't have a stationary belt sander, take your hand belt sander and flip it upside down and attach it to your workbench. I used the same hole I put zip ties through to attach the handle of the belt sander securely upside down on the table. This may not work for all sanders, but it does for the crappy chicago brand one I got from harbor freight. turn it on and push in the "hold on" button so you don't have to have one hand on the trigger while you shape the bushings.

Step 7: using a heavy grit, smooth the top and bottom of your barrels. Only hold the bushing on the belt for a couple seconds at most because it is very easy to get lopsided. If you are afraid of losing some skin off your fingertips wear gloves, but it really doesn't hurt that bad if you touch. At this point you can also bevel the edge of your bushings to make cones and all sorts of funny shapes. You may also have to adjust the diameter of your bushing depending on thick your holesaw was. to do this either carefully do it by hand, or put it through a pen or pencil and let it roll on top of the belt until round and smooth.

Step 8: Get out there and ride.

**your uncle jim** · 04-25-2010 07:36 PM

Woah these look awesome, plus you can feel good about recycling!

but seriously, i would totally buy these.

**urbanasultvehicleuav** · 04-27-2010 03:51 PM

i had to say this, but if you actually look back in the thread the core was melted on them.../ thread

**Roysan** · 04-27-2010 04:33 PM

Is there any way to make those bushings into wheels? at that size? I'm thinking of setting up a board for my pet chameleon and he likes to ride low.

**jackal_lantern** · 04-27-2010 07:37 PM

Originally Posted by NoBullCrapp

I try. save the monkeys!

Originally Posted by urbanasultvehicleuav

i had to say this, but if you actually look back in the thread the core was melted on them.../ thread

Yep, a seized bearing messed up the core. I'm not a monkey killer, I save the apes!

**j.m.** · 04-27-2010 08:01 PM

You know this is a lot easier with a drill press and a milling vise.......

But not a lot of people have that kind of setup in their garage. :P

Jon

**schmoose** · 07-03-2010 11:10 PM

OP: have you gotten a chance to really ride them since you first posted? I recently drilled out an old set of split duros and I feel the rebound wasn't that great and I needed to run a venom or reflex along with it to make them return to center a little more.

thoughts

**jackal_lantern** · 07-04-2010 02:51 AM

Originally Posted by schmoose

OP: have you gotten a chance to really ride them since you first posted? I recently drilled out an old set of split duros and I feel the rebound wasn't that great and I needed to run a venom or reflex along with it to make them return to center a little more.

thoughts

Well what setup are you riding them on? I have had mine on my pumper/cruiser medium tight and they seem to have fairly good rebound for my fat ass. My friend says they feel like Orange Khiros to him if you want to compare.

However, one reason you may not be getting a good rebound is if you drilled the kingpin hole to big, even by a little bit. On a couple of the bushings my friend complained the inner hole was too loose and had a sloppy rebound. after that I was really careful not to over drill the inner hole with the ones I had left and it made the ride improve greatly. I drilled them so that they didn't just slip on, you kinda had to twist them a bit and were super snug= better return to center.

**snozzboarder55** · 07-04-2010 03:38 AM

Originally Posted by schmoose

OP: have you gotten a chance to really ride them since you first posted? I recently drilled out an old set of split duros and I feel the rebound wasn't that great and I needed to run a venom or reflex along with it to make them return to center a little more.

thoughts

when you cut a wheel (especially a used one) it seems the duro feels softer than the given duro of the wheel. otangs specifically, work very well when restricted in my experience. the restriction hardens the feel of the bushing and should give a bit more stability at center as well as more rebound.

im drawing this conclusion after riding Jeremy's dropspeed with tracker fasttracks. the bushing seats are very deep and very large so he runs oversized jimz shaped. the rebound is crazy awesome! but the stability at center is lacking, mostly do to the setup - 50 plates, no bottom washer, and a flat washer on top.

compared to abec11 or reflex thane, the otangs have more give and a softer feel but a lot of rebound... kinda like comparing an 80a venom to an 80a SHR.

**schmoose** · 07-04-2010 11:18 AM

Originally Posted by snozzboarder55

. . .otangs specifically, work very well when restricted in my experience.

Ill have to try restricting them more then. Right now they are a little spongy with no bottom washer on Indys

*note*:I guess that explains why they are so squishy.

. .im drawing this conclusion after riding Jeremy's dropspeed with tracker fasttracks. the bushing seats are very deep and very large

I have yet to try them out on reverse kingpin trucks with restrictive/flat washers. I still haven't ridden them to potential. I probably should have mentioned im riding them on Indys on a topmount.

oh an BTW snozz. It really hard to make stepped bushings when your lathe is trashed. lols

**ZooBamBoo** · 07-04-2010 11:22 AM

Originally Posted by urbanasultvehicleuav

sweet im gona do this with a lime bigzig

Team red ftw.

10char

**snozzboarder55** · 07-04-2010 01:53 PM

Originally Posted by schmoose

Ill have to try restricting them more then. Right now they are a little spongy with no bottom washer on Indys

*note*:I guess that explains why they are so squishy.

i was running reflex 80a home cuts on my indys too and it was a real soft feeling bushing, but it was a radikal shape so the size compensated for the soft duro.

I have yet to try them out on reverse kingpin trucks with restrictive/flat washers. I still haven't ridden them to potential. I probably should have mentioned im riding them on Indys on a topmount.

oh an BTW snozz. It really hard to make stepped bushings when your lathe is trashed. lols

haha ya, if you have a drill press or a drill that you can strap down and make rigid then its doable. my lathe is messed up too, the rod is severely bent so it doesn't spin in a circle, rather it's an oval.