Replacing axles. (update - added HOW-TO)

[SpookTheHamster]

I was putting my Caften back together for the summer, and when I was putting the wheels back on my R2s I noticed that the axles aren't central, so on two wheels there isn't enough thread for the nylon to lock to.

Obviously this is unsafe, so it gives me an excuse to replace the axles with 8mm ones. I'm going to go into the workshop tomorrow to get started, but I just wanted to know how the axles are attached as standard. Do I just need to pound the **** out of it until it comes out, then pound an 8mm bar back down the hole? I heard someone say there was a "tab" at one end, so it's easier to hit in one direction. With the "180" facing you, what tends to be the easiest direction?

When I'm done, I was going to drill a small hole in the hanger a little way into the axle, then screw in a tiny grub screw to keep the axle in place (as well as an assload of loctite)

[Mile_High_Mark]

Typically, one side of the axle has splines, and leaves small marks where those splines fit into the hanger. Once you figure out which side is the splined one, hammer the other side and it should come out pretty easily.

[bpz]

Once you get the stock axle out, you should ream or drill the hanger with an 8mm bit to get a nice straight hole that the new axle will fit in. Some permanent Locktite is said to work good, set screws are fine as well. Good luck, post back what you find out. When I take a class next year called Production Technology, I plan on doing 8mm conversions to all my trucks, if not 10mm for some speed trucks.

[SpookTheHamster]

[SpookTheHamster]

Thought I'd do a quick how-to for anyone interested in how I did it:

What you'll need (other than hangers/wheels):

8mm steel bar
A vice with removable soft jaws
A very big hammer
A milling machine
A pillar drill
A selection of files
A strip of medium grit emery paper
A strip of fine wet & dry paper
A permanent fine tip pen
A hacksaw
An 8mm die
A 4mm tap set
A countersink bit
Permanent Loctite
4 4mm grub screws
4 8mm locking nuts

1. One end of the hanger face will have a very vague "star" shape to the hole the axle goes in. Point this end toward the ground and put the axle in a soft-jaw vice.

2. Find the largest hammer you can, and proceed to beat the axle until it falls out the bottom. How easy this is can vary from truck to truck. If the axle isn't moving, turn the hanger over and see if it's easier. If the entire hanger is moving, tighten the vice or remove the soft jaws (at the expense of a pretty truck).

3. With the axles out, you can easily flatten the hanger faces, I used a milling machine.

4. Take some 8mm bar and push it through the axle hole. Place a wheel on the bar and push the bar so it pokes 10mm past the wheel. Place a wheel on the other end and mark 10mm past the wheel. (see fig 1)

5. Mark on each end of the bar where it leaves the hanger (this will make it easier to get it central in future).

6. Remove the bar from the hanger and cut it at the marking you made 10mm past the wheel.

7. Using an 8mm die, thread the bar down to the 10mm line at each end of the axle.

8. Using a 4mm tap set, drill and tap a hole at each end of the hanger for the grub screws.

9. Mark on the axle where the holes you just drilled in the hanger will line up.

10. Use a countersink to make small indents in the axle for the grub screws to sit in.

11. Cover the axle/inside of the hanger/everything in Loctite and insert the axle into the hanger so the indents line up with the holes.

12. Put some more Loctite on the grub screws and screw them into the holes, super tight.

13. Leave for an hour for the Loctite to set.

14. Use the strip of emery paper to sand the ends of the axles so the wheels can fit over the thread, follow this by smoothing it with the wet and dry paper.

15. Put the wheels back on, mount the hangers and ride!

I've probably missed a whole lot, I'm doing this from memory. If you have any questions, just ask.

[tomahawk]

good info, thanks for the pics.

im gonna be trying this out with some spare dh hangers trying to make them 200mm this summer. I went to mcmaster carr to check out what kind of rods they have, u know if 5/16" is good? It's pretty damn close to 8mm.

[SpookTheHamster]

Most skate axles are 5/16" as stock, so you already know what that'll be like. Upgrading to 8mm means your bearings will fit perfectly on the axle, which will reduce any movement of the wheel and could make your bearings last longer. Search for threads on 8mm axles for more info. If you use 5/16" bar, consider using a shim to bring the diameter to 8mm.

[bpz]

good info, thanks for the pics.

im gonna be trying this out with some spare dh hangers trying to make them 200mm this summer. I went to mcmaster carr to check out what kind of rods they have, u know if 5/16" is good? It's pretty damn close to 8mm.

Haha, that's why people do 8mm conversions in the first place. Truck manufactorers beleive 5/16" is "close enough", but it isn't. Find 8mm.

Most skate axles are 5/16" as stock, so you already know what that'll be like. Upgrading to 8mm means your bearings will fit perfectly on the axle, which will reduce any movement of the wheel and could make your bearings last longer. Search for threads on 8mm axles for more info. If you use 5/16" bar, consider using a shim to bring the diameter to 8mm.

The bar you got, did it come perfectly straight? Are you using stainless steel or just plain old steel? Where'd you get the 8mm bar from?

[Sam514]

can we stciky this ??

[SpookTheHamster]

The bar was straight as an arrow, I checked it on the marking table (perfectly flat steel surface). I got it from the store at my old college workshop, I'm not sure of the exact spec of the steel, but for 96p ($1.50ish), who cares? When it bends I'll make another, using higher quality steel.

[sk8dudek2]

i know this is a really old thread, but i feel it is the appropriate place for my post. I've been fed up with bending axles on every set of randals i buy, so i called a good friend of mine who works for a performance motorsports shop (im talking he works on F1 cars, etc). We got to talking, turns out they order parts from mcmaster all the time, and he can just look through a catalog and get whatever he needs to help me with my hangars. Once we complete a set or two with 8 or 10 mm axels ill let everyone know the results and part numbers, and so on and so forth.

also, i was told by this guy that a tube is more resistant to bending than a solid rod. I believe i may have him make a set of hangars with tube axels... thoughts?

also we are not decided on what metal to use as of yet, if anyone has and suggestions. i'm sure we'll find something strong enough.

[Aaron]

We got to talking, turns out they order parts from mcmaster all the time, and he can just look through a catalog and get whatever he needs to help me with my hangars. Once we complete a set or two with 8 or 10 mm axels ill let everyone know the results and part numbers, and so on and so forth.

I don't think McMasterCarr has 8mm stock in a material suitable for axles.

also, i was told by this guy that a tube is more resistant to bending than a solid rod.

The old Z roller and Z lite trucks had gun drilled (hollow) axles. I saw a dude riding them last week pool riding, and those trucks were 20 years old! (and he wasn't skinny). They seem pretty tough, but what alloy?, how were they treated?

also we are not decided on what metal to use as of yet, if anyone has and suggestions. i'm sure we'll find something strong enough.

4140 alloy.

[[ben]]

can we stciky this ??

Bump.

If this is at the top, perhaps I will see this in a few days when I have money to possibly make this upgrade....

[Partyboypowell]

Thats cool man! Ahh, i see the screws, jobs a good un!

[SteveC]

Now all we need is to figure out how to fix miss aligned kingpins.!.

all of mine seem to be from that era