What is the point of having a dewedged rear truck in LPD ?
I can understand for slalom boards as the WB is much shorter, but in LPD, the WB is arround 30", so why dewedged the rear .... ?
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I don't know that I would agree with that Rodgon. I find it much better to have something that turns like a skateboard than a car when carving. Light carving to slow down very carefully, maybe. But real speed carving on an LDP setup with a twitchy front truck and high platform? Not sure I would be there to back you up brother, maybe take pictures, but not skate....hehe...
I don't know that I would agree with that Rodgon. I find it much better to have something that turns like a skateboard than a car when carving. Light carving to slow down very carefully, maybe. But real speed carving on an LDP setup with a twitchy front truck and high platform? Not sure I would be there to back you up brother, maybe take pictures, but not skate....hehe...
Humm, yes I think the setups are not really compatible ...
Better have a good carver and a good LDP ...
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I would love to get a big sir and a lil fin in a certain color to match my dad's dune buggy
Mark from Mile High hooked me up with a riser that I'm using on the back, that is maybe a half inch riser, with just a tiny bit of wedging built in, that I installed backwards - it's a great rear-truck dewedging riser.
Too much wedging in the front can also strip speed, I've found...
I built an LDP board with an upturned front, to sort of build wedging into the deck -that plus two Khiro soft wedges was too much overall wedging. I mean, I could virtually pump from a dead stop, but I felt like I hit a wall where i just couldn't go any faster.
I was actually going to experiment with taking dewedging OUT of the rear, thinking that at higher speeds, I might get more of a whole-body pump going.
So why not try it both ways? Try it flat - it probably will be just fine. Dewedging will if anything make a mild difference, I'm sure.
OK, I have to disagree. Pumping is one thing, it is about a motion and propulsion. (And a massive grin!) BUT, and that is a BIG BUT, LDP is about......hold it.......EFFICIENCY. The reason that you dewedge the rear is so it doesn't wiggle off the energy you are creating in the front. It is absolutely critical for long distance efficiency. As to the front wedging, the Khiro shock pads are roughly 8.5 degrees IIRC. 2 of them would put it at 17 degrees with roughly a 1/2 inch height rise. This is a good wedge for LDP. Heck I run my wedges higher than that!
In that shot, the reversed one on the bottom adds height and pulls 2 degrees out. The others are a 15 and a 5. That pyts this at 18 degrees with roughly a 1/2 inch rise. Perfect for a 6.0 with BZ's on it. When I switched to the 5.0 recently to do more hill climbs, I changed out the riser at the bottom for a 1 degree. That lowered the setup by an 1/8 and set the wedge at 19 degrees. It is awesomely powerful. It is all about foot angle control if you want to keep from shaving off speed. And the available power is great for jaunts up long rises and short rolling hills.
As you can see here:
I run about 12 degrees in the rear on a Bennett. If I am running the Tracker RT-S 149mm with BZ's, I use a 8-10 degrees on top of a 3/16 shock pad. Can't see it real well in the pic below, but that is just for grins anyway....
Hope this helps guys. I have been doing this every day now for amost a year. I have perfected my track setup and my trail setup for my. Your mileage may vary, hehe..
Well it's very feasible that my perception of not having much top speed has more to do with either my lack of experience (new this year) pumping, or my experimental LDP board... since I don't have a "real" LDP deck to compare to, it makes it tough to judge success vs. failure.
OK, I have to disagree. Pumping is one thing, it is about a motion and propulsion. (And a massive grin!) BUT, and that is a BIG BUT, LDP is about......hold it.......EFFICIENCY. The reason that you dewedge the rear is so it doesn't wiggle off the energy you are creating in the front. It is absolutely critical for long distance efficiency. As to the front wedging, the Khiro shock pads are roughly 8.5 degrees IIRC. 2 of them would put it at 17 degrees with roughly a 1/2 inch height rise. This is a good wedge for LDP. Heck I run my wedges higher than that!
In that shot, the reversed one on the bottom adds height and pulls 2 degrees out. The others are a 15 and a 5. That pyts this at 18 degrees with roughly a 1/2 inch rise. Perfect for a 6.0 with BZ's on it. When I switched to the 5.0 recently to do more hill climbs, I changed out the riser at the bottom for a 1 degree. That lowered the setup by an 1/8 and set the wedge at 19 degrees. It is awesomely powerful. It is all about foot angle control if you want to keep from shaving off speed. And the available power is great for jaunts up long rises and short rolling hills.
As you can see here:
I run about 12 degrees in the rear on a Bennett. If I am running the Tracker RT-S 149mm with BZ's, I use a 8-10 degrees on top of a 3/16 shock pad. Can't see it real well in the pic below, but that is just for grins anyway....
Hope this helps guys. I have been doing this every day now for amost a year. I have perfected my track setup and my trail setup for my. Your mileage may vary, hehe..
totally agree.
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dewedged rear truck in LPD ?
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