Installing bearings w/o tools

**Mile_High_Mark** · 10-26-2006 10:49 AM

Here's a quick-and-easy way to install bearings w/o tools. It assumes that the trucks have been mounted on the board.

Remove axle nuts and speed rings/washers.
Place board on its side with cardboard or a rag between the ground and end of the axle.
Slide one speed ring on the end of the axle facing you.
Slide two bearings on the axle, both with the outer seal facing down (i.e., facing the hanger).
Slide one wheel face down (i.e., graphics-side down) on the axle, and press down HARD.
Rotate the wheel approx 1/4 to 1/2 turn and press down again.
Remove the wheel (and the pressed-in bearing).
Slide one bearing spacer on the axle (leave the other bearing in place).
Flip the wheel over (graphics are now facing you), and slide the wheel on the axle.
Press down HARD.
Rotate the wheel approx 1/4 to 1/2 turn and press down again.
Slide one speed ring on the axle, and tighten the axle nut.

**nick** · 10-26-2006 11:20 AM

I've never used tools to set my bearings in. I've always set it up like this:

(Picture the board on its side, everything sitting on the axle, the washer on the bottom is resting against the hanger.

Bearing - Seal down
Spacer
Bearing - Seal down
Washer
-------------

Take the wheel, outside face of the wheel pointing down, push one bearing in securely, flip the wheel press down firmly, and fasten the axle nut.

Done in a few seconds.

**Mile_High_Mark** · 10-26-2006 11:23 AM

With the spacer between the bearings, you're putting additional stress on the inner race of the "top" bearing.

That's why I "stack" the bearings.

**pithaya** · 10-26-2006 11:43 AM

But Mark, wouldn't you then be putting extra stress on the bearing on the bottom of the stack??. Slim posted about pressing them with a dead bearing, How about you use a dead bearing as the bottom of your stack and then press both other bearings in on top of the dead bearing.??

**Mile_High_Mark** · 10-26-2006 11:45 AM

Originally Posted by pithaya

But Mark, wouldn't you then be putting extra stress on the bearing on the bottom of the stack??. Slim posted about pressing them with a dead bearing, How about you use a dead bearing as the bottom of your stack and then press both other bearings in on top of the dead bearing.??

In theory, yes. In practice, I haven't seen any problems. Slim's method is definitely good. Whenever I can, I use a bearing press, however.

**Rabid Skunk** · 10-26-2006 12:03 PM

You mean people didn't already know this?

**EBasil** · 10-26-2006 12:08 PM

I'm usually setting bearings in softer wheels, so a press really isn't necessary. Most often, I use either my Fix Stix tool that I've cut the skinny arm off of (it cracked) so it's a Tee,

or a variation on the method Mark describes, with either regular bearings or Biltins. Occasionally, when swapping out bearings in slide or park wheels, I have to fight with them, but that's pretty rare. Ohhhh, bad memories of brazilian wheels just came flooding back.

**kenofseattle** · 10-26-2006 12:18 PM

All of these methods/tips seem fine to me. I have a method for swapping bearings without tools that I've developed over the years. I use oppositional force to set them. The idea is simple. Put both wheels on the axle with loose bearings, put the board down on it's side and pull the top wheel up while using your toes to hold the bottom wheel down. It's very fast and my results have been great.

1) Drop a speed ring onto your axle
2) Shove a bearing into the INSIDE hub of the wheel with your thumbs
3) Drop the wheel onto the axle
4) Drop a spacer onto the axle inside the wheel
5) Shove the second bearing onto the OUTSIDE hub with your thumbs
6) Add a second speed ring
7) Add a nut and tighten slightly
8. Repeat for the other side of the truck

Ok, so it's all together. Wheels are on the axles with bearings and speed rings. Lay the board down on it's side, put your feet on one wheel and pull the top wheel toward you using the bottom wheel for leverage. Now push DOWN on the top wheel. You will feel the bearings pop into place. Pulling and pushing this way sets the bearings tightly into the wheel. Now all you have to do is tighten the nuts. Wiggle the wheel every couple turns of the wrench until it no longer moves back and forth on the axle.

Don't overtighten the wheel nuts or you can crush your bearings, rendering them worthless. Just a turn or two of the wrench, with a wiggle of the wheel until it's all snug.

**matt123** · 10-26-2006 12:40 PM

I feel really dumb asking this but how do you tell which side of the bearing has the outer seal and which has the inner seal?

**EBasil** · 10-26-2006 12:49 PM

If it's got seals or shields on both sides, there is no difference. If one side is open without any shield/seal, that's the side you put to the interior of the wheel.

**nick** · 10-26-2006 01:47 PM

Originally Posted by Mile_High_Mark

With the spacer between the bearings, you're putting additional stress on the inner race of the "top" bearing.

That's why I "stack" the bearings.

But that would be the same pressure put on the inner race of the bottom bearing, with the washer between it and the hanger, when you're pushing down on it at the final step.

Especially with softer wheels, so long as you're not putting all your weight into it, I would hope the bearings are able to stand up to force needed to push them in.

Mine have done fine for years now.

**Area 51** · 11-26-2006 04:58 AM

Originally Posted by EBasil

If it's got seals or shields on both sides, there is no difference. If one side is open without any shield/seal, that's the side you put to the interior of the wheel.

And I'd add if there is a metal shield and a rubber shield (like Minilogo Bearings), put the rubber shield facing out, a rubber seal will keep out water and moisture better.

**ct_racer** · 12-17-2006 03:11 PM

For some reason I couldn't get the second bearing all the way in on my mini-logos so I took a 5/8 socket and put it on the axel. The socket put all the force on the outside ring of the bearing and it popped right in and the spacer that I've never been able to get tight before wouldn't move. Also with the socket pushing all the way on the outside it was much easyer to get it aligned with the wheel.

**Crappysurfer** · 12-17-2006 03:33 PM

this is so much more confusing than just doing it...

**kirchartreynolds** · 04-12-2007 10:43 PM

How do you take out the bearings from the wheel with out damaging them? Can I just stick an L shaped tool and pull out the bearing?

**VulgarDisplayCFH** · 04-12-2007 11:33 PM

If you push the bearing on to the axle to hard, you can damage the bearing. Don't go to hard.

**098Mindstate** · 04-13-2007 12:19 AM

Originally Posted by kirchartreynolds

How do you take out the bearings from the wheel with out damaging them? Can I just stick an L shaped tool and pull out the bearing?

use the axle...the tool you described sounds like it can potentially damage the shields.

**yellowdart** · 05-19-2007 12:42 AM

sweet...it was easy and worked like a charm

**Warren** · 07-04-2007 08:14 PM

Just buy this!
Less than $10. available at any skate shop - been made for almost 20 years.
Used hundreds of thousands of times in my shop (and shops around the world I'm sure)
Plus it will tighten your trucks / wheels / kingpins - and can be used as a hammer.

Thank you Paul Schmidt

**aaronaftershock** · 07-07-2007 03:27 AM

I've been doing this for a long time and never had a problem until I got Mini-Logo's. It seems the shields dent super easy and caused interference with the balls in the bearing. After a while riding them it seemed to straighten out.