Buy a set of MHS or Pleasure Tool bearings. Remove one seal per-bearing. Replace the Biltin shield with the seal. Now you have sealed Biltins and a good set of spare/backup bearings.
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Buy a set of MHS or Pleasure Tool bearings. Remove one seal per-bearing. Replace the Biltin shield with the seal. Now you have sealed Biltins and a good set of spare/backup bearings.
Getting rid of the shields is easier said than done
I've tried and bent a thumbtack. I'll try to find something sharper, or maybe I'm just doing it wrong.
Get a sharp-point x-acto knife, and run the blade around the outer race. The blade will "catch" on the c-clip. Pry the blade under the end of the clip, and pop it out and off.
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Home of the Hybrid Truck & Ready-To-Rip completes.
Questions about an order or product? Click here to e-mail me.
I assembled some Biltins with ceramic balls and rubber seals. Tres bien.
Were they comparable in speed/quality to other ceramic ball bearings like rons or swiss? I would be interested in taking the ceramic balls from my rock'n rons and tranplanting them in biltins if the speed of my new bearings is the same-ish.
__________________
Current setup....
Black Demonseed
Black Crail Speed Trucks
Blue stims all around
90mm Flywheels
Ceramic Rockets
And of course the rims....
Reds seem to roll better for me than stock Biltins. But biltins offer other advantages. Just keep them away from the smallest amount of dust or water. Not what you need for LDP. But as a slide bearing they are very quiet. Would I buy them again? Yes. They have a purpose. Would I buy reds for anything other than slide? Yes.
and +1 for the guy who said 10mm Biltins are needed.
for those complaining about biltins being slower then reds, wouldn't a good idea be to take the bearings and all other parts out of the reds, and swap them into the biltins? then you get the simpleness of a biltin with the 'added' speed (if there is any) from a red?
i don't see how one shield can be better at keeping dirt out than another? can someone explain this to me? because they both have a C clip, so doesn't meant they're both sealed?
if you're talking out sealing the inside of the biltin, why not just put the rubber shield from a set of reds? most people seem to go from reds to biltins anyway
for those complaining about biltins being slower then reds, wouldn't a good idea be to take the bearings and all other parts out of the reds, and swap them into the biltins? then you get the simpleness of a biltin with the 'added' speed (if there is any) from a red?
i don't see how one shield can be better at keeping dirt out than another? can someone explain this to me? because they both have a C clip, so doesn't meant they're both sealed?
if you're talking out sealing the inside of the biltin, why not just put the rubber shield from a set of reds? most people seem to go from reds to biltins anyway
It's the stock grease in biltins that primarily give them a "dull/slow" feel imo, this stock grease is necessary for being transported, stored & sitting on a shelf until sold. Best advice I've had if you need to break them in quickly is to clean out the stock grease then add a drop of oil in each bearing, followed by a few thousand rpms on an 8mm bolt attached to drill (cover w/tissue so you don't get oil/lube everywhere)
Once that's gone though they're a dream to ride, the issue with the shield is that it doesn't fully seal the bearing from dirt due there being a gap between the inner race & shield which is how dirt makes it's way in. as MHM stated, this is easily sorted with some rubber seals, a very easy procedure once you know how to remove a c-clip.
I''ve looked into getting loose ceramic balls & I'm kind of shockhed at how much more expensive they are than just buying a PT set for example, seems like a lot of bike wheel axles use 5/32" balls & that's where the price get's jacked up.
I had no reply for an engineering studio about 10mm biltin-esque inner races for some of my bear/vxb 10mm bearings, which sucks because I've pretty much shot 2 bearings from a lot of sliding recently & hate having to re-buy gear.
Anyone know anywhere that might be able to do the job?
you think the PT ceramics are the same "type" as the balls in rons or swiss? Meaning the greyish ceramic instead of the white ceramic found in cheaper ceramic bearings.
__________________
Current setup....
Black Demonseed
Black Crail Speed Trucks
Blue stims all around
90mm Flywheels
Ceramic Rockets
And of course the rims....
you think the PT ceramics are the same "type" as the balls in rons or swiss? Meaning the greyish ceramic instead of the white ceramic found in cheaper ceramic bearings.
grayish black
i placed an order already for shitloads of ceramic balls, to replace my friends' biltins....probably will have some left to sell too.
grayish black
i placed an order already for shitloads of ceramic balls, to replace my friends' biltins....probably will have some left to sell too.
Where did you order the balls from? I was thinking that if i could either get some more ceramic balls or take the ones from my rons and put them into brand new swiss labrinth bearings.....then would be sooooo sweet. That would make super swiss labrinth ceramics. Prolly wouldnt need to clean those for years lol
I wonder when it comes down to it whether the actual "bearing" itself (as in no ball bearings) is of higher quality/speed? Rons are great bearings but everyone swears by swiss originals. By combining ceramic balls with swiss it would be like making a better and cheaper version of the swiss ceramic they sell for $95.
__________________
Current setup....
Black Demonseed
Black Crail Speed Trucks
Blue stims all around
90mm Flywheels
Ceramic Rockets
And of course the rims....
Then imagine if after that we could add the "biltin" feature I think that would make a lot of people happy lol
__________________
Current setup....
Black Demonseed
Black Crail Speed Trucks
Blue stims all around
90mm Flywheels
Ceramic Rockets
And of course the rims....
Re: Abec11 Biltin Abec 7 Precision Skateboard Bearings
I think that would make a lot of people happy lol
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