I want to paint the bottom of my longboard deck

**Ryno** · 02-03-2008 06:20 PM

Hey guys, I made a thread about this before but I didn't get much advice.

I have a Kracked Skulls M1 with no base graphic (blank deck) and I want to do a custom painting on it now that its winter and I can't ride.

The deck has some sort of clear coat on it to protect the wood and I'm wondering whats the best way to paint on this surface. Should I paint on top of it and add more clear coat after to protect it or should I sand it down a little then paint + clear coat?

Any suggestions on types of paints/clear coats that will work best given the natural of the canvas (flexing lots)?

Any advice would be super helpful for me seeing as I'm kind of in the dark here

**pistol pete** · 02-03-2008 06:37 PM

my suggestion is just dont do it. my friend did that on his vanguard and it looks pretty cool but the flex isnt the same now and it starts to chip away and looks like #### now

**Tex202** · 02-03-2008 06:39 PM

Originally Posted by pistol pete

my suggestion is just dont do it. my friend did that on his vanguard and it looks pretty cool but the flex isnt the same now and it starts to chip away and looks like #### now

a vanguard and a kracked skulls are waaaay different

different wood different quality different clear coat

i would say sand it until you hit the wood, paint it, then add some clear coat

**Ryno** · 02-05-2008 06:58 AM

Any thoughts on types of paints that work (or don't work)?

**xbjoker** · 02-05-2008 07:51 AM

I have a m1 too, cool idea I want to see how much for airbrushing.

**anotherartgeek** · 02-05-2008 08:18 AM

I'd recommend using acrylics, they have much more flexibility than any other paints.

Whether you sand down to wood or not you should sand the painting surface. It will give the paint a surface to adhere to. And don't fret the scratches in the clear areas they'll disappear when you add clear coat to seal in the paint.

**Ryno** · 02-05-2008 03:10 PM

Originally Posted by pistol pete

it starts to chip away and looks like #### now

No different then normal graphics. I really wanna handpaint this...just something to do

**dethcarve** · 02-05-2008 06:04 PM

would colored sharpies work? you probably wouldn't have to put down another clear coat..

**ConnorH** · 02-05-2008 06:34 PM

I stained the bottom of my M1. I sanded it down and around the logo until it was to the wood. then i stained it and coated it with spar urathane clearcoat that is meant for coating stains. turned out pretty good

**anotherartgeek** · 02-06-2008 08:51 AM

Originally Posted by dethcarve

would colored sharpies work? you probably wouldn't have to put down another clear coat..

A sharpie will leave a mark on your board ... but it's not the optimal choice. Over time Sharpies have this habit of 'bleeding through' or eating though the surface they are on. And you should always seal in your artwork.

On the other hand there are many very good paint markers out there that may suit your needs, and they should be fairly easy to use. Some options, if you want more of a 'urban' look are >here<.

**Ryno** · 02-07-2008 06:26 PM

Originally Posted by cityjumper7

I stained the bottom of my M1. I sanded it down and around the logo until it was to the wood. then i stained it and coated it with spar urathane clearcoat that is meant for coating stains. turned out pretty good

How much did you sand it down?

**Ryno** · 02-16-2008 10:02 PM

Originally Posted by anotherartgeek

On the other hand there are many very good paint markers out there that may suit your needs, and they should be fairly easy to use. Some options, if you want more of a 'urban' look are >here<.

What is the idea behind those sharpies? As in what makes them special?

**anotherartgeek** · 02-18-2008 08:49 AM

Sharpies are a common and reasonably good permanent, alcohol based, marker. Their big claim to fame is that you can find them almost everywhere. And for what they are, they're not bad. They're just not quite the optimum artistic medium.

I prefer the brush, but I've also been trained to be a fine arts painter so my bias is there. But if you put in the effort to learn how to brush paint, it will open many more interesting avenues for your expression.

**MOlongboarder** · 02-18-2008 09:16 AM

Kracked skulls doesnt use a clear coat, he uses a brush on polyurethane. If you sand lightly, then spray paint will work fine. I have done four kracked skulls now and all of them are still in great shape as far as paint goes, Heres mine Ive been riding it for about a year now.

**saab900** · 07-03-2008 02:07 PM

Originally Posted by MOlongboarder

Kracked skulls doesnt use a clear coat, he uses a brush on polyurethane. If you sand lightly, then spray paint will work fine. I have done four kracked skulls now and all of them are still in great shape as far as paint goes, Heres mine Ive been riding it for about a year now.

Thats using spray paint?

**Cbug11** · 09-22-2008 03:22 PM

Yeah so im gonna paint my M1 so could someone just give me a step by step thing so i do it right. btw im gonna use spray paint and i kinda want to paint the whole board white but i might pass on that.

**anotherartgeek** · 10-14-2008 02:52 PM

Originally Posted by Cbug11

Yeah so im gonna paint my M1 so could someone just give me a step by step thing so i do it right. btw im gonna use spray paint and i kinda want to paint the whole board white but i might pass on that.

This is what I would do:

Plan - Do lots of sketches, get the ideas you have out and visible so you can truly judge them. Pick your favorite and go from there.
Sand - sand off the finish so you're down to the wood, or at least rough up the finish a bit so your paint will stick.
Prime - If you sand down to the wood you'll want to seal up the wood so your paint doesn't get absorbed by it. You want your paint on the surface not in the grain, unless that is the effect you want. There are tons of ways to do this, I like either using a primer paint like gesso or some other primer. PVA Size is also an option, you can find it at many art stores, I like Blick or Utrecht. PVA is nice because it is clear so the wood will show through.
Paint - Pick your paint of choice and go to town! Don't be afraid to experiment further while you paint. And always always take some time to stand about 6 feet from your board and look at it. Changing perspective is good for keeping the painting going the way you want it to.
Seal - Put some varnish or other sealer on your board. You want your work to last at least a little while, so protect it.

How's that for step by step? Now go paint, enjoy and take pictures!

**Adam Testa** · 10-22-2008 04:17 PM

Originally Posted by anotherartgeek

This is what I would do:

Plan - Do lots of sketches, get the ideas you have out and visible so you can truly judge them. Pick your favorite and go from there.
Sand - sand off the finish so you're down to the wood, or at least rough up the finish a bit so your paint will stick.
Prime - If you sand down to the wood you'll want to seal up the wood so your paint doesn't get absorbed by it. You want your paint on the surface not in the grain, unless that is the effect you want. There are tons of ways to do this, I like either using a primer paint like gesso or some other primer. PVA Size is also an option, you can find it at many art stores, I like Blick or Utrecht. PVA is nice because it is clear so the wood will show through.
Paint - Pick your paint of choice and go to town! Don't be afraid to experiment further while you paint. And always always take some time to stand about 6 feet from your board and look at it. Changing perspective is good for keeping the painting going the way you want it to.
Seal - Put some varnish or other sealer on your board. You want your work to last at least a little while, so protect it.

How's that for step by step? Now go paint, enjoy and take pictures!

i'm taking that this technique will work for several other boards?

**anotherartgeek** · 11-05-2008 11:36 AM

Originally Posted by Adam Testa

i'm taking that this technique will work for several other boards?

These steps should work for any board.

**tinypete** · 11-05-2008 11:49 AM

Originally Posted by anotherartgeek

This is what I would do:

Plan - Do lots of sketches, get the ideas you have out and visible so you can truly judge them. Pick your favorite and go from there.
Sand - sand off the finish so you're down to the wood, or at least rough up the finish a bit so your paint will stick.
Prime - If you sand down to the wood you'll want to seal up the wood so your paint doesn't get absorbed by it. You want your paint on the surface not in the grain, unless that is the effect you want. There are tons of ways to do this, I like either using a primer paint like gesso or some other primer. PVA Size is also an option, you can find it at many art stores, I like Blick or Utrecht. PVA is nice because it is clear so the wood will show through.
Paint - Pick your paint of choice and go to town! Don't be afraid to experiment further while you paint. And always always take some time to stand about 6 feet from your board and look at it. Changing perspective is good for keeping the painting going the way you want it to.
Seal - Put some varnish or other sealer on your board. You want your work to last at least a little while, so protect it.

How's that for step by step? Now go paint, enjoy and take pictures!

word. thats what i was going to say, but you summed it up.