Official Superglider Army Setup Thread

[animal chin]

Yes yes a thousand times yes on the indys over reverse kp thing. The guy in the logo is obviously a noob. And I'm not sure the old 149sideset/169centerset rule (aka Wells' Maxim) still applies with the added 1". On my widerglider, 169s plus Road Rages seems like an optimal total width (now my fishballs are HOMELESS), but on the narrowglider I always liked them best w/149s and the fishballs on 169s, like I was supposed to.

(Angels, meet head-of-pin).

And I know this is sacrilege (don't listen Brian!) but the Aces I've tried (55s) are the bomb. Like better-engineered indys. More precise bushing seats, cleaner all around, love the way the hangers come factory tapered and faced so you don't need an inner speed ring. When I bought them I was like, "where's the other speed ring?" I can't tell if they turn any different, geometry wise, but the hangers fit great in indy baseplates and I sure like turning them. 55s are perfect on the narrowglider with centerset (or very slightly offset?) tsunamis. 66s for teh wider?

/chatty cathy

I believe Ace are similar to Stage 3 indy's...

[streetheap]

When standing on the rails at standstill with this bushing setup I was not getting any bite, but when I took it to the streets I sure as hell did. I guess I'll buy another 1/8 next time I'm at the mall.

Also, I was using Mark's nylon flat washers with the conicals and in the front the washer squished itself in the the top of the bushing and tore it up a little bit.

I think I must ride differently then most people. I'm only 120, and that bushing setup is pretty stiff. The wheels are said to be a perfect size for the board, and my trucks are fairly tight. When my board is at standstill, i can stand on the rail of the board and even hop up and down a little, but when I start carving in the streets I immediately get wheelbite.

The only other longboard I've had is a Dervish, which is pretty much incapable of wheelbite with wheels that aren't enormous.

Am I just carving too hard (say it ain't so...)?

**Tell me if this belongs in another thread or a new one and I'll edit this post and put it in the other thread.**

Hello, Ryan.
When it comes to a traditional "longboardy" feel for just messin around, I like my Indys/Aces to be soft at the top and have a pretty progressive squish. Hence, I use bigger and softer bushings and wider hangers than most people. Gives me the ability to make one-footed turns (or whatever) and still have a great deal of rebound, and also can help with wheelbite. I also don't need my Indys or Aces to lean much. It feels like (especially with Indys) that there comes a point when the trucks/board are leaning, but not turning near as much anyway. I weigh 220, for reference.
Like Archy says, too, don't be afraid to use cups with conventional trucks. For the most part, they don't turn as deep as Randals, etc., and therefore are a little easier on cupped and/or soft bushings (generally).

I believe Ace are similar to Stage 3 indy's...

Very similar.....

[RyanTheMann]

I picked up a set of hard 1/8" risers and a set of 1/8" shock pads today and when I went to put the hard ones on I realized that the risers I had on my glider were 1/4" the whole time, I just never measured them. So, I guess I'll try using a total of 3/8". I'll also put on the cups.

I'll let you guys know how it works out when the sun comes up.

edit:
Also, something random about this board - I wanted to peel off a section of the griptape where the "earthing" is on the top, so I peeled it up a little to discover that all the green color, and the "earthwing," had cleanly transferred to the bottom of the griptape, leaving the deck grey. I stuck the griptape back on.

So, for those interested in an inconvenient way to take off the graphic and the color on the bottom, I think covering it with something like duct tape and peeling it off may work.

A confirmed way to take off the graphic but NOT the color (I love the green): Use dish soap, warm water, and the rough side of a sponge and scrub lightly.

[lfatboy]

i think both the gray and the teal look pretty gnarly. also, i think the grip adhesive is wayy more sticky than duct tape, so the color coming off is understandable.

[Schiffler]

Just ordered today

Board Shape (Widerglider, OG): Widerglider Yellow
Trucks: Indy 169
Bushings (make, model, color/duro): Bones Hardcore blue, Khiro gold inserts (ordered both to experiment)
Risers (lowerers'): Two sets of 1/8" soft risers and One set of 1/2" wedges (ordered multiple to experiment)
Wheels (make, model, size, duro): Retro Freerides in 80a
Riding Style (cruising, carving, downhill eek!): Cruising, Sliding, Commuting. I plan to make this my go to board to replace my two year old dervish.
Riding Terrain (park, street, garage): Street
Other wheels used: Might try smaller wheels later on.

[RyanTheMann]

Just ordered today

Great setup, and I applaud you for ordering extra parts for experimentation. You'll be glad you did.

Anyways, today I tried the added 1/8 riser to the 1/4 I already had and put the cup washers on the cones and I must say, I am very happy.

Started off with a light barefoot cruise earlier today, and just got back from some hill bombing and carving. Currently no bite and plenty of rebound.

[howuncreative]

Ryan: Have you tried that same combo but using small (aka restrictive) cups on the cones? Venoms feel better that way, imho, and won't slide all over (and maybe let you lean enough for bite) like a slippery little nylon washer will. That and, yeah: another 1/8" like everyone else has to run.



Tell the hive mind what wheels you're on and it will serve you better.

im running 66mm earthing road rages. also, im using core baseplates, so larger bushings should be able to fit. anyway, here is the rest of my question with the rest of my board's specs:
"can you guys help a noob pick out a good bushing/riser setup for carving/pumping? i have a widerglider with indie 169s and i weight around 130. i've heard a lot about venoms, but i'm not sure which ones to get/which truck to put them on, etc. also, whats the deal with the wedging/de-wedging stuff...i'm kind of lost..."

[Archy]

i weight around 130.

I'm 70 pounds heavier, so I wouldn't know which duro venoms to suggest. Certainly nothing harder than 85 or 90a. Maybe some of the lightweights can help you.

Shape-wise, with exactly the same set-up, I've been using eliminator bottoms and switching around barrels and cones on top. Not there yet. Eliminators restrict some lean but feel stable in softer duros and bounce you back better than a barrel (imvho). Barrels turn deeper with consistent resistance, cones turn quicker and divier. It's all about your take on how it feels, so get a bunch of bushings in a bunch of shapes in and around likely good duros and play.

Wedging answers and a ton of other useful stuff: Randal Skateboard Trucks - General Truck FAQ

[schmete]

Trucks:Tracker Fasttracks 180mm
Bushings (make, model, color/duro): Stock Tracker Fasttrack bushing
Risers (lowerers'): none
Wheels (make, model, size, duro): Blue Krypto Classic-K's, or Abec 11 70's Flashbacks (duros unsure)
Bearings: Abec 7 generic bearings
Riding Style (cruising, carving, downhill eek!): I've been doing freeriding (standup slides mostly)
Riding Terrain (park, street, garage): semi steep hills, good asphalt for sliding
Other wheels used: oops, didn't see that
Miscellaneous: I plan on doing a lot of ditch riding with this board, I've been doing only freeriding since I got it though, so I tried it out. The wheelbase is short, so it allows for controllable slides, but since it's a top mount it doesn't slide AS easily. Sweet board though!

[kurdt]

yeah! i love how this thread is now 15 pages long! the superglider is still one of my favorite boards ever! really capable of so much! ride on supergliders! ride on!

[D_02]

Board Shape (Widerglider, OG): Widerglider Gold (i dont like calling it yellow)
Trucks: Indy 169
Bushings (make, model, color/duro): stock
Risers (lowerers'): 1/4 khiro risers
Wheels (make, model, size, duro): 70mm 83a ew smokers
Riding Style (cruising, carving, downhill eek!): carving, freeride, sliding, mild downhill
Riding Terrain (park, street, garage): street
Other wheels used: 65mm 78a

great board but here's my problem, the stock indy bushings feel really dead. after ridin my old board with revenge trucks and a friend's derv with paris', this board wasn't quite as turny as i expected it to be. any advise on which bushings to get? i weigh 165. i have a friend who just ordered a double barrel khiro bushing kit, wc combo would suit me well? blue bottom orange top? or should i go out nd buy venom super carves (do they fit on indys)? any need for extra risers?

[surfdubs]

venoms won't fit unless you knock out the stock pin or get a core plate and different pin. my suggestion is bones hardcores softs blues. you can put a barrel venom on bottom if you want to play with that.

[Xgecko]

venoms won't fit unless you knock out the stock pin or get a core plate and different pin. my suggestion is bones hardcores softs blues. you can put a barrel venom on bottom if you want to play with that.

you can use Venom barrels on the bottom and Bones Hardcores on the top....its the setup I have on both my park boards it works quite well

[D_02]

ok, great. no available bones hardcore here in the philippnes (the only bushings ive seen so far are venoms, khiro and bennetts). kingpins aren't available either. i guess i'll just have to stick with the dobule barrel khiro bushing kit. any suggestions on what combo to use?

[RyanTheMann]

I think I may have discovered a possible cause of my wheelbite problem...

I have the Hybrid 169s, and I believe the longer kingpins may have damaged the pivot cups. The pivot cups are oval shaped and torn in some places, and one side of each cup is really really worn down. The cups are also starting to come out.

What I noticed today is that the hangars are really far out of the pivot cups and I can't push them back in. There's also a popping sound coming from the trucks.

Would soft Khiro small pivot cups be my best bet?

I just hate when stuff like this happens because I have to spend a few bucks for the part and a whole lot more for shipping...and then wait for it to come.

[Mile_High_Mark]

I think I may have discovered a possible cause of my wheelbite problem...

I have the Hybrid 169s, and I believe the longer kingpins may have damaged the pivot cups. The pivot cups are oval shaped and torn in some places, and one side of each cup is really really worn down. The cups are also starting to come out.

What I noticed today is that the hangars are really far out of the pivot cups and I can't push them back in. There's also a popping sound coming from the trucks.

Would Khiro small pivot cups be my best bet?

I just hate when stuff like this happens because I have to spend a few bucks for the part and a whole lot more for shipping...and then wait for it to come.

Kingpins never touch the pivot cups.

If your pivot cups are worn as badly as you say, e-mail me with your shipping address and I'll send you some hard Khiro cups.

[RyanTheMann]

What is the thing called that touches the pivot cups?

I need to get down my skateboard vocabulary...

and btw...The lock was a good call

[Mile_High_Mark]

What is the thing called that touches the pivot cups?

I need to get down my skateboard vocabulary...

and btw...The lock was a good call

You're referring to the pivot (aka, hanger).

[RyanTheMann]

You're referring to the pivot (aka, hanger).

I think we had a misunderstanding. I did say the hanger was coming out of the pivot cup. When I was talking about the longer kingpin being an issue I was referring to the fact that the hanger is now at at a different angle than the one the baseplate was built for because of the longer kingpin. As a result, the pivot cup has become warped because of the hanger applying more pressure on certain parts of the pivot cup. Does that make sense?

Kind of hard to explain...


I think this guy had a similar problem.
Pivot Cup Troubles

[lfatboy]

Don't know how a longer kp can really change things... the length of the kp doesn't change the angle or position of the hanger at all. If the kp is really long, it just sticks out and scrapes the concrete.