Longboarding Resources & Q/AGet or give friendly, patient answers to, "Which board should I get?", "How do I stop?" or "What's wedging and how do I do it?"
Have you ever used Darkstar wheels for sliding? They're real hard and may be like Slide A's. I have a set of LightKnights on my park deck, they're supposed to be flatspot proof.
chaser: your name is not David, i know your intentions are to help, but this isnt the place for anyone to answer
calnick: a few boards that i've seen people take pretty darn fast are the EW super charger, the s9 bintang (actualy many of the longer s9 boards with kicktales can handle some real speed, i've seen them taken over 40.
actualy, thats what id look for in general if i were in your position, any board that is around 45-47 inches long, with a kicktail, put randal 180s on it, and it will handle as much speed as you are skilled to do.
I hope that helps
I really like the earthwing supercharger, that thing is sweet.
Alright I did some price shopping and this is what i came up with:
calnick: bones mini logos, reds and swiss are all just as fast if you relube them with bones speed cream, but swiss are more durrable. that being said, i usualy go with reds or mini logos, cause then you can just replace them instead of maintaining such an expesive bearing.
42s will be more stable, and have a wider turning radiouse. for what you are looking for, i'd suggest the 50 degree. - Mile High Skates that right there is a great complete actualy and those wheels are plenty fast. without a dh board, it will always be the board that limits how fast you are, not the wheels. if you are truly concerned about having the fastest board possable, then get a true dh board that can handle it. but those wheels will easily be comparable to gumballs, and smaller, so your a bit lower and no wheel bite. though orangatangs would be a good second alternative if you want the fastest possable wheels.
wedging, the fat side is toward the inside of the board, dewedging, the fast side is toward the outside of the board. and some people like a wedged front, dewedged back, so play with it a bit, everyone has their preferences,
wedging, the fat side is toward the inside of the board, dewedging, the fast side is toward the outside of the board. and some people like a wedged front, dewedged back, so play with it a bit, everyone has their preferences,
calnick: bones mini logos, reds and swiss are all just as fast if you relube them with bones speed cream, but swiss are more durrable. that being said, i usualy go with reds or mini logos, cause then you can just replace them instead of maintaining such an expesive bearing.
42s will be more stable, and have a wider turning radiouse. for what you are looking for, i'd suggest the 50 degree. - Mile High Skates that right there is a great complete actualy and those wheels are plenty fast. without a dh board, it will always be the board that limits how fast you are, not the wheels. if you are truly concerned about having the fastest board possable, then get a true dh board that can handle it. but those wheels will easily be comparable to gumballs, and smaller, so your a bit lower and no wheel bite. though orangatangs would be a good second alternative if you want the fastest possable wheels.
80(deck and griptape)+35 or 26.75(randal 180s)+15(reds)+54 or 51(orangatangs)= 172.75 < x < 184
Sorry for the algebra, haha. Am I missing anything? I think it's cheaper if i get the parts separately.
I'll assemble my own board, I'll probably enjoy doing it.
For the orangatangs, should i get 4P or Inheats?
80(deck and griptape)+35 or 26.75(randal 180s)+15(reds)+54 or 51(orangatangs)= 172.75 < x < 184
Sorry for the algebra, haha. Am I missing anything? I think it's cheaper if i get the parts separately.
I'll assemble my own board, I'll probably enjoy doing it.
For the orangatangs, should i get 4P or Inheats?
I'm sorry in advance dave but i'm sure most can handle answering this.
Yes. You are missing hardware $2<x<$8 and bearing spacers $1<x<$2 (and tax/risers if applicable)
EDIT: go for the 4prez unless you want wheelbite
SORRY DAVE BUT I COULDN'T RESIST (and don't have the effort to prove my experience via your survey thingy on account of I'd rather be skating)
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Last edited by Kenny_Ledesma; 01-28-2009 at 09:31 PM..
are you a noob with longboard related questions?? well this is your thread for those questions to be answered. i have a decent amount experience in all things skateboarding. except slalom, so dont ask about that so what do you want to know, ask away, and if i dont know, then you arent a noob and shouldnt be askin me
I'll quote this just so people can read the main point of this thread.
I used to answer the questions on this thread, but I learned my lesson and have let Team Noob Rescue answer the questions on this thread.
Oh, and David, how much experience do you have with Crails?
hey dave, I was just wondering wat too do i do if I cant get my board to roll straight. I've taking it apart and put it back together to see if that would help but nothing. It has pull to the left. and feels like there is a lot of slop on the board. :\ cant seem to fix it. pretty sure my axles are not bent.
(this is a homemade board with home made bushings if one of those causes to my my board lean very hard to the left then i would be happy to fix it)
p.s. i love this thread saves me from making a new post and looking supernoob.
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Sorry officer, i just did a shitload of crack and i need to walk it off- Mr. Zach Lewis
hey dave
My new legendery demon will be arriving soon - which rocks
anyway I am wondering if i get a pair of powell nose bones
what would be the best option to mount them on
I dont want to drill holes in my brand new deck
i would prefer not to glue it but if i have to which glue would be best?
k twist: you could possibly have missdrilled mounting holes. you could have just drilled them slightly angled left. also since it is a homemade board it is possible that there is a little bit of a bend or twist in the deck itself which could cause the drift. as for slop, that all depends on the bushings you made. can you give more info on those?
777th post.
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tinypete: i have fairly limited experence with them. Foxen - a good friend of mine rides them, so i've riden his setup a couple times, had them up around 50 ish, they are solid trucks, but are a bit more restrictive than i like.
ktwist: this could be a number of different things. Does it pull to the left when riding it or only when there is no weight on it. if it is pulling with no weight, then that is just a preloaded bushing and is completely normal. your bushing could be lopsided. that is possable, and if it is pulling to the left when standing on it, then that means you missdirlled some of your holes for your trucks, and on, or both of your trucks are crooked. So without seeing it and standing on it myself its hard to say, but you can look into any of those things. it will be easy to measuer the holes to see if they are strait, so you can cancel that out first if that isnt the problem.
ntthrepo: you would need an epoxy for that, just look for something made to use on plastic, though i would recomend using screws. if you ever wanted to remove it, a few screw holes would be less noticable than a bunch of glue
1. Does wet/sand/salt wear grip tape a lot? I have been riding my apex on the roads and the grit from the plows gets on the deck of my board. Will this wear the grip tape faster than usual?
2. I have Kryptonics 76mm 78a wheels on my board and I want to get into sliding. How do these slide? I was thinking about buying some purple Orangatang inheats. Would these be better?
1. absolutely it will, but ya gotta ride, right? a grip tape cleaner will help that though
2. the kryptos will def slide better than the otangs, the otangs are made to grip.. they can be slid, but that is not the design of them. kryptos are made to slide and drift, stick with what you've got for that. also, otangs are best when they havnt been slid, they grip like crazy and are as fast as hell
Re: NOOB Questions Answered By Dopamine David
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