Choosing Bushing Setup

**wildo** · 09-23-2009 02:14 PM

Having just bought my first slalom board, I'm thinking about bushings and wondering how to go about choosing the right ones. Please note- this thread is not really to ask about what bushings I should use, rather to ask about how and when to change them in general. I was really discouraged to not find much information on choosing bushing setups.

I am a heavy rider at 275pounds, and have some khiro black and purple double barrels to play with, as well as a set of Retro Lime double barrels. I also have the standard set of tracker hourglass bushings that come on the RTS/RTX trucks (which are the trucks I am using).

Like I said, I am hoping to learn about bushing setup, not necessarily wanting to know about how my specific setup should look. But for full disclosure, my setup is:
Front --> RTX + 1/4" riser + 1 Khiro soft angled riser (wedged)
Rear --> RTS + 1/4" riser + 2 Khiro soft angled risers (dewedged)

So, let me state my questions this way:

Should I always put the same hardness bushing on both the top and bottom?
If a place a different durometer bushing on the top and bottom, is there some rule as to the ratio? For example, would I always want the harder bushing on the baseplate, and the lighter on the hanger?
When, specifically, would someone want to use a different durometer on the hanger than what they use on the baseplate?
I've heard that the rear truck should generally use a softer durometer bushing set than the front truck. Is this true?
Assuming proper riser blocks, can bushings alone determine wheelbite? I can get serious wheelbite using the stock hourglass tracker bushings. Should this be an indication that I need to adjust my bushings?
It doesn't make sense to me that you would want to overly compress the bushings at the kingpin. At what point does one jump to the next heavier durometer bushing as opposed to tightening the kingpin?

I seriously hope that the answers are not "you do what feels right." With all of this technology in the bushings, I assume there is a science and generally accepted guidelines to bushing setups... Thanks in advance!

**06metzp** · 09-23-2009 02:42 PM

1. Should I always put the same hardness bushing on both the top and bottom?
Not necessarily. I know many people who use mixed bushings, including myself.

2. If a place a different durometer bushing on the top and bottom, is there some rule as to the ratio? For example, would I always want the harder bushing on the baseplate, and the lighter on the hanger?
As far as I know, it is by far most common for the harder bushing to be on the baseplate side of things, but I have seen people run it the other way too.

3. When, specifically, would someone want to use a different durometer on the hanger than what they use on the baseplate?
A harder baseplate-side bushing will provide some stability, while the softer bushing will allow you to turn more.

4. I've heard that the rear truck should generally use a softer durometer bushing set than the front truck. Is this true?
No, unless you're planning on moving to fishtail city.

5. Assuming proper riser blocks, can bushings alone determine wheelbite? I can get serious wheelbite using the stock hourglass tracker bushings. Should this be an indication that I need to adjust my bushings?
If wheelbite is bad and you've already tightened down the bushings some (or as much as you're willing to), you have two options: more riser, or harder bushing(s)

6. It doesn't make sense to me that you would want to overly compress the bushings at the kingpin. At what point does one jump to the next heavier durometer bushing as opposed to tightening the kingpin?
It's kind of arbitrary, but I usually would switch to a harder bushing if I've tightened a softer set to the point where I can see it squishing with no load applied and it still feels too soft.

I could be in the minority in some of what I've said but it's all based on personal experience. That said, play around and figure out what feels right

**wildo** · 09-23-2009 02:49 PM

Good info! Thanks for the response!

I was also thinking about the washers that come with the bushings- flat and conical. I wonder if there are "guidelines" about when to use each?

**Cann0n** · 09-23-2009 03:07 PM

1) Hardest bushings go closest to the board, on the hangar. It's magical. The hard bushings provide stability while the soft bushings add agility. You'd want to do this with double barrels in most cases.

2) No.

3) Refer to #1

4) Not true. You can adjust the trucks by tightening/loosening the trucks.

5) Risers increase turning ability (more leverage) and raise the distance between the wheels and the board. If you get wheelbite with tightened trucks, replace the bushings and/or add risers.

6) You are getting too technical. If you feel the need to change durometers, do so. There is no official rule for it. It's all about how it feels. If you don't like cranking down the trucks on your bushings, change them out.

Rub some wax on your board where you get wheelbite. This will reduce the friction caused by wheelbite. It's not full proof but will help on those sudden stops just a little bit. Maybe enough so you don't slam forward? Saved me once or twice.

I tighten my trucks equally on symmetrical boards. I keep my back trucks slightly tighter on non-symmetrical boards. As for slalom boards, I'd probably keep the back trucks tighter than the front. I dunno. I don't do that.

Instead of calling bushing colors, learn the durometers. It helps a ton. on understanding what you need. I keep a list of bushing durometers in my tool box.

I haven't ridden a slalom board since I was 10 years old.

**Cann0n** · 09-23-2009 03:08 PM

Originally Posted by wildo

Good info! Thanks for the response!

I was also thinking about the washers that come with the bushings- flat and conical. I wonder if there are "guidelines" about when to use each?

Double Post!

Flat washers are for double barrels.

Conical washers are for cones.

**jman1365** · 09-23-2009 03:12 PM

Originally Posted by Cann0n

Double Post!

Flat washers are for double barrels.

Conical washers are for cones.

they're cup washers not "conical" and you can use flat washers for any type of bushing (barrel, cone, stim)
as well as you can use a cup washer for any type of bushing (barrel, cone, stim)

**wildo** · 09-23-2009 03:19 PM

Originally Posted by jman1365

they're cup washers not "conical" and you can use flat washers for any type of bushing (barrel, cone, stim)
as well as you can use a cup washer for any type of bushing (barrel, cone, stim)

Thanks for the correction, that's what I meant. I have to admit though, I didn't really learn anything from your response about washer usage. If both types can be used for all types of bushings, then why ship two different kinds?? There must be an advantage/disadvantage to each type...

Perhaps I am being too technical, but I am just a technical kind of guy. If nobody ever asked technical questions- then we wouldn't have this nice selection of different durometer bushings...

(oh and on a side note- what is a "stim" bushing?) edit- I found my answer on the "stim" bushing: bushings vs. stims

**jman1365** · 09-23-2009 03:33 PM

Originally Posted by wildo

Thanks for the correction, that's what I meant. I have to admit though, I didn't really learn anything from your response about washer usage. If both types can be used for all types of bushings, then why ship two different kinds?? There must be an advantage/disadvantage to each type...

Perhaps I am being too technical, but I am just a technical kind of guy. If nobody ever asked technical questions- then we wouldn't have this nice selection of different durometer bushings...

(oh and on a side note- what is a "stim" bushing?) edit- I found my answer on the "stim" bushing: bushings vs. stims

a flat washer is going to give your truck more lean
a cup washer is going to create more rebound
it's all about preference for which one you choose to use

**Cann0n** · 09-23-2009 04:02 PM

Originally Posted by jman1365

they're cup washers not "conical" and you can use flat washers for any type of bushing (barrel, cone, stim)
as well as you can use a cup washer for any type of bushing (barrel, cone, stim)

Out of 3 sets of cup washers I have, 1 fit barrels... I wont use them unless the lips fit over the bushings.

I've used conical bushings before. To use them, you'd want to flip them up-side-down and use them on barrels. You can use them on any bearing for more deeper carves, just you have to flip it for tall cones.

As long as it fits, it's golden.

I don't suggest flat washers on cones unless you are using short cones (Doh-doh's). Normal sized cones and tall cones will tear up easier with flats because of the focal points of stress on one side or the other seem too great.

It's all about feel. You can even flip cup washers if you don't have any flat washers.