Rear truck problem.

[sniffleless]

I'm having some real problems with the rear truck on my Red Baron. The rear feels like it's swinging wide as I come around cones.
I'm running Bennett up front and RTS in back.
I've messed with the bushing and played with the wedging and the rear still feel like it's swinging wide. I had been running 12* wedge up front and 15* wedge on the rear kick. I figured I'd go 15 on the rear to balance out the kick. The rear just didn't feel right so I changed the wedging. 15* on front and 10* on the rear. I'm still swinging wide. The wedging info I'm giving are the wedge riser angle and not necessarily the actual wedge of the truck thanks to the kick on the tail.
I've tried tightening the truck. I've tried loosening the truck. Going harder on the bushings. Going softer on the bushings. I can feel the difference I'm making but I'm still feeling like the rear is turning wide. I'm running the 20.5" wheelbase. I've played with all kinds of foot placements.

It's nuts. I'm getting fed up with it. So anyone have any suggestions beside by "X" trucks for big bucks?

[Mig]

Run 20° total with a RTS on the Red Baron. It will make it feel more dead. Also try to use oversized bushings (Stim or JimZ shaped), it will keep it from diving and take some more turn out of it. Also play with the size of the flat washer you'll put under the bottom Stim or JimZ shaped bushing to fine tune. If it's a Stim shape you may even try a cup washer. That should solve your problem without going for an expensive truck.

Also what do you use as a front truck? Cause if it's a Bennett anything over 7° is useless and even counter productive. I have one on a Red Baron and I'm running it flat...

[claude regnier]

Sniffleless, Sound to me like you tried everything execpt add mote rear wedge.

Try another 5 degree on the rear at a time. I think 5 more is all you'll need but I will foward this to MIg and he can advise you as well.

I know you tried changing bushings but have you tried a really hard one. Spmetimes my rear truck is better if it is almost dead.

[Shorty McSmalls]

I had been having the same problem and did some searching. Martin Drayton was saying that if your run the front truck higher than the rear it should help. So I run two shock pads up front with 5 degrees of wedging and I run the rear truck flush with a couple of rubberized washers between the baseplate and deck. It seems to help.

[claude regnier]

Wow! Am I ever good. Just thinking about Mig and he beats me to the punch!

Oh and Mig when you sign in to MSN you'll have a PM from me about the above mentioned problem

[sniffleless]

Thanks for the quick responses guys. I'll throw in a few more wedges on the rear and see if that helps.

I usually run my Bennett front with 12* of wedge. Works fine on my other set ups. I think I went 15* on this one just so I could avoid wheelbite. I was running low on longer hardware to add more risers. I didn't notice any real change in the action so I kept it that way. I may switch that out too now that I have more mounting hardware.

[MJKam11]

*I don't slalom* I've had a similar problem with an RTS turning out in my rear on its own, I moved it to the front (just to see what happens) and it still swung out. Check your pivot (not sure of actual name of the part, it goes into the pivot cup) because mine was bent, causing it to turn out.

If this isn't what you were referring to in terms of "swinging out" than disregard this post.

[Christophish]

Good advice on the front Bennett from Mig. Any more than 7 degrees and your axle will be in front of the pivot cup, causing a really weird feeling. I ran 7 degrees up front today in our GS race, and I think that was still too much. I'm going to try flat (seems odd for slalom), then go from there.

[sniffleless]

Okay I put 19* of wedge to the rear. That's all I had. Now it's too late to go out and try it out but I'll try it tomorrow.

I also went back to 10* on the Bennett. I also trimmed down an old hard bushing to use instead of a stack of washers to raise the bushings up to position. I also lubed the pivot cup. No more squeaks.

[sniffleless]

so I got to try the new wedging today. It seems to have worked. I didn't get to really hit it hard but I got a few runs in before the rain. Thanks Mig and Claude for the advice and quick replies.

[Momona Boe]

see - those Canadians ARE our friends!

[mellowkat]

How about same setup with an RTX on the front. How much wedge would you run?
The other thing I would add to the RTS rear setup that I completely ripped off the sk8kings guys, is to run a softer inner bushing with a harder outer. They are using the stock Tracker superball barrels(Blue.Orange,Green). Seems couterintuitive, but keeps the rear truck "flatter" through its range of motion.

[GPymp]

Originally Posted by mellowkat

The other thing I would add to the RTS rear setup that I completely ripped off the sk8kings guys, is to run a softer inner bushing with a harder outer. They are using the stock Tracker superball barrels(Blue.Orange,Green).

The only potential problem I see with this is that most people use Khiro bushes. So lets say you are at a race or something and a really good open guy and or pro wants to give you bushing advice. He may not be famililar with the Tracker balls but is well versed in Khiro. And you want to try out his idea or suggestion. My local "coach" Martin Reeves always translates to me in Khiro. From Rad to Khiro or Venom to Khiro, which helps a lot.

Claude helped with stance and wheel size here at a COSS open a couple of months ago. He is not just a bush master.

Ultimately its what feels good to you on a course/hill.

[Chrispy23]

I hate to hijack, but since I'm a slalom noob....

I'm running a skennet front and RTS back on a Fatboy Fatass (set for TS 19" WB?). From what i'm reading I should be wedged about 5 to 10 in front and dewedged about15 - 20 in back? Also the soft Khiros are what deg? I've read 10, but they look more like 7-8 even before compression.