I started on building a start ramp (good to have for the occasional outlaw and practice as well). So far, the process is going well. The sides are 3/4 ply with 2x4 bracing. The bottom braces are on 10" centers and the "S" braces are on 6" centers; 2.5" exterior grade screws holding everything together. I had read of smaller "S" bracing being perfectly fine but, for my piece of mind 2x4's wouldn't hurt. I did have to make some size compromises so it could fit in my car. The width is 32", length is 5' with a height of 31". I'm pretty happy with the transitions. They are drawn out due to the height vs. length so (I'm hoping) there isn't a noticible bump at the bottom.
I decided on using 2 sheets of 1/8 slick board (I'm sure there's another name for the stuff). My question is: What would be the best method to attach it to the frame. I was thinking of galvanized roofing nails because of the flat head but, would screws be better?
If you're thinking about using 1/8" manufactured sheeting (what we used to call "particle board,") I can tell you Tiger used the same stuff on the LCB ramps for the '06 Encinitas race. By the end of practice there was a huge hole at the end of one ramp and the other was cracked. Tiger ran to Home Depot and got another sheet and screwed it to the top of the damaged piece. By the end of racing that day the second piece was cracked.
You know, two 1/8" pieces equals one piece of 1/4" plywood. You've ridden my ramps and know what that's like. When I got my plywood from HD I had the guy in the lumber department put it on their rip saw and cut an 8-foot length to the width I needed (34" for mine.) I then attached the top sheet to the cross supports just one at a time down the length of the ramp. The 1/4" bent to shape with no protest.
I was kind of careful about screwing the top to the frame as I would be doing it blind from the top into the cross piece. I was careful to space my cross pieces EXACTLY 6" on center apart. Then I layed out the plywood and literally drew a grid on the wood with a Sharpie where each screw would go. I didn't miss a single cross piece on either ramp. I counter sunk the screws just a tad, got a small bucket of wood filler and spackled every hole and then hit each one with a rotary sander. I thing it's eight spars with three screws each totalling 24 screws. After painting my ramp surface is flush with no screw heads visible.
Anyway, that's the results I've seen using that 1/8" stuff.
With ramp building your always gonna want to go with screws in case you ever have to take it apart to fix something. The slick board is most likely masonite which is not very strong, I would go with some plywood underneath that and then layer on the masonite just so you don't put a hole in your ramp.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by da-an-aniel.cal-al-an
I have killed for a cookie. be careful of what you say, every day i have to live with the guilt
WT, so I understand you correctly, you used two 1/8th ply sheets?
No, 1/4" plywood. It's very flexible and will follow the "S" curve without cracking.
When I built the second one i got about 1/3 of the way down the ramp and heard a loud "CRACK!" but there was no splintering or cracking of the wood. I think it was just a glob of glue somewhere in the plys that let go.
Use the screws for your plywood and finish whit masonite and crew it juste on the both side. When the masonite will be in bad condition change it $8.00 /sheet.
Juste look at ISSA section starting line for a plan Québec Ramp
the supporting beams you have at the bottom of your ramp are unnecessary,bolt em off again leaving only the front and the rear beam.
those suckers need to go to the top tranny.
that's where they make more sense
then you will also never have to be afraid of holes in thinner top ply constructions.
you could even try to go for masonite as a stand alone sheet then.
the supporting beams you have at the bottom of your ramp are unnecessary,bolt em off again leaving only the front and the rear beam.
those suckers need to go to the top tranny.
that's where they make more sense
then you will also never have to be afraid of holes in thinner top ply constructions.
you could even try to go for masonite as a stand alone sheet then.
Don,
I would never ever step on a ramp that has only masonite has sheeting (at least not the one we have here in Canada). Unless the supporting 2X4's are laid side by side without any gap. And even then, the rolling surface wouldn't be has fast and smooth as a 1/4" or 3/8" plywood + the masonite.
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then you have to come to germany
we know how to build those things the right way,ni kidding...it works and i lasts and it supports-i gues that's what you are concerned about.
Ok. The ramp part is done. I went with the recomendation of 1/4" plywood. Actually, it took two sheets as the first one exploded at the bottom transition due to a whole bunch of knotts. I got some 16 gauge metal for the bottom to protect the bottom edge and smooth out the exit. Finished in basic black.
hey claude
thanks for the friendly advice
its always good to have experienced and sound people around.
we are very unaware of building start ramps anyway and my input was highly unprofessional and
uncalled for.
i really want to apologize for doing so!
No need for Mig to waste a trip unless he wants to go to race.
I don't think Mig would be wasting a trip if he were to go to Germany!
It is a very beautiful country with lots of flavorful beer served by gorgeous German wenches!
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"Let your haters be your motivators!"
start ramp build
Re: start ramp build
