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Old 04-08-2004, 12:47 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raven6241
WOW! $650!! That's cheap by Australian standards. If only the postage was cheap for those sort of things... Normally a luge maker will sell for about AU$1000 so $750ish US, and they are good boards, but not as tried and tested as a Rogers Bros. And yeah, the full fender getup is super sweet. Cheers for the info bro.

Hey there,

I gave you the wrong price on the Rogers Luge, according to my records it was $775.00. Honestly, it was the best purchase for the year and I use it every chance I get.
If you think about it $775.0 for the best equipment is pretty cheep, $800 hardly gets you anything in a lot of other sports. An entry level road bike for cycling is around $1000.00 and that’s far from top of the line. Even snowboards can run up to $800.00 and you still have to pay the lift fee every time you go.
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Old 04-08-2004, 01:57 AM   #22
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Swingline, thanks a whole lot for all the info! You've just saved me a ton of $$$ and time!! Any other info i should know of? Good trucks or wheels or anything?
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Old 04-08-2004, 03:41 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRASS
Swingline, thanks a whole lot for all the info! You've just saved me a ton of $$$ and time!! Any other info i should know of? Good trucks or wheels or anything?
Trucks:
Randall RII’s are a great truck to start out on. Pro streetluger Dave Auld uses these same trucks currently and is very fast on them! I recommend the 180’s, which are the wider ones. Actually...on second thought order the RII buttboard trucks, they come with stiffer bushings and a grade eight kingpin and are only a few dollars more.
Randall makes a Luge truck with a floating axle but they are a bit pricey and the floating axle doesn’t make that much of a difference. I am convinced that the RII’s are one of the best luge trucks out there, especially for guys who are just getting into the sport.

The Lally luge with RII’s would be pretty sick!

Wheels:
If you want a cheep wheel to run with your friends, get the 85mm Blue Kryto wheels. I use these to practice and for racing, they wear and stick pretty well.

For competitive racing I recommend wheels from either ABEC 11 or Exkate.
ABEC 11 wheels, both the Flywheel and the Gumballs seem to be doing well, the Roger Crew rides nothing but these. Gumballs come in 76mm and Flywheels come in three or four different sizes. When choosing a hardness sick with something around 75 to 78a, the 78a will probably last a bit longer.
Exkate makes a wheel called the Cherry Bomb that a lot of pros seem to like; this is more of an old-school wheel that was really big during the height of Streetluge in the X Games

Tips that are useful:
1) Wedge helmets are found on ebay for super cheep. I have a few and got them for $25 or less.
2) Welding gloves seem to work for protection but you have to attach a piece of Velcro around the wrist section to keep them from sliding off during a wipeout. Motorcycle gloves, (again from ebay) ensure more protection.
3) Leather suits can be found cheep on ebay, mine was slightly used and only $75.
4) Diesel truck tire retread is great breaking rubber, I found my first piece on the side of a country road. You will need tin snips to get through the wire belt, try to find a piece that is thin otherwise it will be very difficult to cut through. Roger Bros. sell tread without the wire belt, so does the Wild Fro Streetluge School.

-swingline65
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Old 04-08-2004, 06:52 AM   #24
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Also to add something to the Randal Luge Trucks, the floating axle becomes less floaty, eg. it stops moving and becomes like a standard axle after small bumps APPARENTLY. I have heard this from a few sources now, but have not seen the damage myself.

Just a word of warning. It's still not stopping me paying the $500-odd Australian in cash to purchase 3 of them. But yes, RII's are the #### and then some for beginners. You think they are stable on a longboard, whack them on a low CG luge and see how they fail to ever wobble.
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Old 04-08-2004, 03:33 PM   #25
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So where would be the best place to get all of this online?
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Old 04-08-2004, 05:32 PM   #26
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www.irssports.com is definately the place that has it all. You might be able to shop around and find a few things here and there for cheaper, but I doubt it'll be by much. Shop at IRS and everything will come at once. Funny story though, not an IRS problem, but something that show the illiteracy of some employees in the US Postal System, a luger I know ordered some wheels and stuff and after 3 months was thinking, "where are they?"

Turns out they went to Austria. The box was labelled "Australia".

Why are their idiots controlling your mail?
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Old 04-10-2004, 01:57 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRASS
So where would be the best place to get all of this online?
I buy all of my luge stuff through www.DaddiesBoardShop.com
You’ll have to email them and specify that you want the RII “buttboard” trucks; they can get all that stuff but don’t always have it shown on their webpage. Also with the wheels you may have to email them and explain what you want since the larger Kryptos are not shown online. Thier ABEC11 wheels are priced well and those are shown online. They have always gotten my orders to me quickly and have been super nice over the phone. I have heard other racers speak highly of them too.

I would send them an email asking for:

3 Randal RII “buttboard” trucks (2 if your not running dual in frount)
6 Krypto Classic 84mm wheels (4 if you do not run double trucks)
2 sets (8 bearings a set) of ABEC 3 or ABEC 5 Daddies Pleasure Tools bearings.(only one set if you do not run dual in the frount)

As you can see, running dual/double trucks in the frount can raise the cost quite a bit.

Later,
Swingline
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Old 10-09-2004, 10:40 PM   #28
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raven, do you use a riser? or anything to soften the ride?
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Old 10-10-2004, 03:42 AM   #29
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Yeah man, wedge risers on all trucks. Angled so they are anti-turn. I find it can help the stability. I'd rather be stable and have to work to turn, than be able to turn easy, but get wobbles.

I had to trim them down though to fit into the channel.


Also, I recommend soft risers, not those hard plastic ones. I took off a truck last week for the first time in about a year and the riser was massively deformed from the stress. Still works, but the inner hole thingos were warped beyond belief.
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Old 10-10-2004, 09:50 PM   #30
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allright...anti turn....so larger side on the inside?

i machined out the channels, so i don't have to mess with the pads at all really...

im 2 thirds done now (i finally started it about 2 weeks ago)...all i need is a sheet of aluminum for the pan....but its damn expensive...
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Old 10-11-2004, 12:18 AM   #31
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fat end out!!!!!!!!!

i've seen guys go 140+ on r2's mounted flat though so whatever works. me i buttboard and wobble after about 95km/s per hour. it sucks! i am running indys though
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Old 10-11-2004, 03:27 PM   #32
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I was woundering why hasn´t any one billt replicas or simular designs of the Rogers bros luges. I was thinking that it must be easyer to bend/weld pipes than weld aluminum or am i totaly wrong?
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Old 11-06-2004, 09:55 PM   #33
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Default luge styles

alright here's my two cents.

sleds are much easier to build then rails. the best construction guide for a sled style board is here http://www.streetluge.net/construction/

andy lally is a lightening fast guy with a lightening fast board at an awesome price. i've seen plenty of people win on that board with no modifications.


irssports.com is the best place to get everything. their website is a little poor and doesn't reflect everything they have in stock. call them and tell them what you want and they'll make it happen.

irssports.com makes a boomed luge for sale on their site. race proven and fast. however their working on a prototype board called the bodyrocket and i'm going to try to attach the picture along with this post. I rode that board all last year on R-IIB's. plenty of people win on R-IIB's and they have the same geometry as the randal luge truck. however the axle on the randal luge truck is a little stronger.

buttboards rock and are one of the most fun things in the world to ride. it scares some people at first, but once u get the hang of it you'll love it. specs for building your own buttboard here http://www.geocities.com/sidestreetluge/buttboard.html

so here's the post of the pic. ::crosses fingers::

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Old 12-02-2004, 07:14 PM   #34
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I am in the prosses of building my street luge and it's pretty easy really once you know what your doing...I designed mine on the computer before I even touched my aluminuim and I am glad cause I know what I need to cut and how it will look basically and its easy....I am watching my freinds at school who didnt design there's on the computer and there struggeling and haveing to re cut aluminuim and are wasting alot....and 3x2 square aluminuim is expensive...I bought 20 feet (got alot extra for my next one's) and it was $122 Cdn and I am using 1/4" aluminuim sheet for my body pan...but I got that for free...and when people say that salvage yards dont have dogs at night...yeah there lieing
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Old 03-19-2005, 08:04 AM   #35
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can anybody make like a step by step tutorial on how to make a street luge? cuz i wanna build one sometimes soon, anyone help?

either post it, e-mail me, or PM me. help would b greatly appriciated!
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Old 03-19-2005, 10:27 AM   #36
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there are a ton of plans out there, google maybe . . . or start at http://auldovertheroad.com/lugeboard.htm or build a D.Lott board, look around. Personally I build mine from a foam core, PM me if you want more info.
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Old 10-13-2005, 02:10 PM   #37
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Default Check this rail sled out

Here is a pic of My 1997 Xtreme Wheelz sled, tons of innovations including a ram air ramp system, and fairings over the cross sectioned welded rails. Awesome and I'm glad I own it. This beast weighs 47lbs, but tons of fun...check out my site for pics...you may get some ideas from it (has an hourglass shape seat)..ask me any questions...If I cant answer it, I will find someone who can.
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Old 10-13-2005, 09:56 PM   #38
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HEY!!!!! Please note that the wedge system only works for conventional trucks. The Randal style of truckss is so drastically different that the wedge thing doesn't work. Randal actually designed their trucks so that they had the same effect as wedges. So if you really want to make an R-II more stable, flip the hangars. Then if that's not stable enough, slap the R-II hangars on some DH baseplates. Just don't wedge 'em; you'll either fall off the damn thing 'cause you have a turning radius of 6 ft. or you'll wedge it the other way and kill the turning ability. Check out this site:

http://www.chrischaput.com/randal/

it has a pretty good overview of randals so check it out before you go messing with a good truck.

Also, please note that you can buy the different base plates here:

http://store.irssports.com/index.asp...RODGROUP&ID=13

although it seems as though they are chronically out of stock of everything...shut down without shutting down the site maybe? Oh well, search around. Try trading with other boarders. Worst comes to worst you coule buy a set of DHs and use the DH hangars and R-II baseplates on a longboard! I just hate it when there's an excuse for new toys.
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Old 10-13-2005, 10:01 PM   #39
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So then how do describe the amazing success of the Evo with it's built in wedges?
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Old 10-13-2005, 10:13 PM   #40
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the guys at Landy have a working knowledge of trucks. They designed a board to fit the R-IIs. Note that they say it won't be very successful if you slap DHs on it. This indicates that wedging won't work the same for every truck. So I wasn't saying it can't be done, but the way those guys were talking about it it seemed like they were newbs and didn't (completely) know what they were talking about. With the exception of that guy with like 3000 posts of course.
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