Really Want to Get into Luging and/or Buttboarding...

[Jraice]

Hey Guys... I have always liked laying on my board or sitting on it but as we all know you get MAD wobbles even on a legitimate DH setup... well atleast most setups do at pretty low speeds...

I really want to luge... it just looks so fun, easy and safe and is very different from regular standup which I have been doing for a few months now... I think it would be super fun, would allow me to do some more technical runs around here (that require more breaking) and would be a fun platform to film my standup buddies from.

So whats a good way to start? I have seen classic luge/buttboards but they seem like they would wobble just like a regular skate, dont have a head rest and have no-where to put your feet... But I know nothing about luging so perhaps these are not issues...

I dont know about metal tooling but I have an entire wood working shop to my disposal... I also have a ton of 6oz fiberglass and aerospace grade epoxy that I could use (but wouldnt mind just making it out of wood ) if needed...

So any tips? Designs?

Setups? To start I am going to put my current setup, some crails (good condition, just slight bends in the axles) and 75mm lemon bigzigs. Will that work ok? Whats a common way to mount the trucks (wheelbase's?) angles? Should I wedge the front and dewedge the back like I normally would on standup? Softer front bushings? Like I normally would with standup? How loose of trucks?

Last, whats the best type of rubber to put on the bottom of the shoe so it lasts longer, but the shoes can still be worn occasionally when walking?

Oops one more question, any need for slide gloves? I've got them... And will most helmets work? I have a specialized deviant and when laying on my rayne avenger I have decent view with my head fully lifted... It takes a lot of muscle though to keep my head up and feet straight off the ground (I would assume thats because of the shorter board)...

So any thoughts on design, basic tips, basic skills (equivlant to safetly slides, foot breaks etc.. in stand up)

Thanks

[Dr D]

Originally Posted by Jraice

Hey Guys... I have always liked laying on my board or sitting on it but as we all know you get MAD wobbles even on a legitimate DH setup... well atleast most setups do at pretty low speeds...

I really want to luge... it just looks so fun, easy and safe and is very different from regular standup which I have been doing for a few months now... I think it would be super fun, would allow me to do some more technical runs around here (that require more breaking) and would be a fun platform to film my standup buddies from.

So whats a good way to start? I have seen classic luge/buttboards but they seem like they would wobble just like a regular skate, dont have a head rest and have no-where to put your feet... But I know nothing about luging so perhaps these are not issues...

I dont know about metal tooling but I have an entire wood working shop to my disposal... I also have a ton of 6oz fiberglass and aerospace grade epoxy that I could use (but wouldnt mind just making it out of wood ) if needed...

So any tips? Designs?

Setups? To start I am going to put my current setup, some crails (good condition, just slight bends in the axles) and 75mm lemon bigzigs. Will that work ok? Whats a common way to mount the trucks (wheelbase's?) angles? Should I wedge the front and dewedge the back like I normally would on standup? Softer front bushings? Like I normally would with standup? How loose of trucks?

Last, whats the best type of rubber to put on the bottom of the shoe so it lasts longer, but the shoes can still be worn occasionally when walking?

Oops one more question, any need for slide gloves? I've got them... And will most helmets work? I have a specialized deviant and when laying on my rayne avenger I have decent view with my head fully lifted... It takes a lot of muscle though to keep my head up and feet straight off the ground (I would assume thats because of the shorter board)...

So any thoughts on design, basic tips, basic skills (equivlant to safetly slides, foot breaks etc.. in stand up)

Thanks

I just finished building my first out of wood.
I used 2 sheets of 3/4 birch plywood from home depot (they come 2ftx4ft) an 8 ft 2x4 knot free preferably. two 4ft pieces of aluminum angle stock ( to stiffen the center section)

and 4 carriage bolts with washers and lock nuts 5/16

I cut the center section the length from my butt to mid neck plus 12 inches.

I cut each end 18 inches

I overlapped them six inches at each end and beveled the overlapps 45 degrees.

I cut a pan out the length of the center rib from one sheet of ply. It extends and is sandwiched between the center piece and the upper pieces of 2x4 rail. Before drilling and bolting it all together I layed the aluminum angle iron on both upper corner edges of the center piece and drilled and screwed them to it from the sides. the pan is applied over that and the uppers both front and rear are overlapped six inches. two carriage bolts at each overlap one in front of the other and lots of good wood glue. I them drilled three different positions for truck mounts and counter sunk them far enough to make the hardware fit. I cut a "gumball Machine" style leg rest with handles on either side from the second piece of ply and mounted it to the front upper.

After the first run I cut a small piece of scrap ply and screwed it to the angle of the rail between the pan and the leg rest to act as a fender. The front wheels were throwing sand and gravel on me in the corners. problem solved.

no great engineering wonder I assure you but I did it in an afternoon from one trip to home depot. IT works great. one other thing I would recomend some 1/2 inch plywood gussets on the joints I actually used a metal gang nail on each side which works fine but is a little ugly. I screwed the gang nail to both 2x4's as an extra precaution.

If you could find a hardwood 2x4 you could leave out the aluminum angle. they made it cheap and strong though so either way you are covered.

I tried to build one from the gumball machine plans online but I never could get it to be stiff enough for me. I am a big guy though so maybe they are better for shorter lighter people.

[Jraice]

I am just going to go with like a lott design buttboard... So what would be a good axle to axle wheelbase?

What I really need to know is how to set the trucks up... Most people do it like a speedboad, softer front bushings and wedged front truck... But I saw one person that used R2 trucks and flipped the FRONT truck, making the front LESS wedged then the back... That seemed to me like it would reduce traction and stability, but then again I dont know how a luge rides...

So should I do it like that or just do basically the same setup my stand up is? Its currently 45 degree front 37.5 back with harder back bushings but I am going to look into making the make a little less (32.5-35) or possibly making the front 50 just to give me a little more difference... Ill probably start with doing 12.5 in the back so I am extra stable for learning and then switch the 7.5 back in and a 5 in front so I can turn a bit more....

So any tips on how to set up a classic luge/butt board truck wise... and is 3/4" birch ply wood the best material to make one?

Oh and for the rails, what should I use?

[bgh gierco]

Get wide trucks, stiff bushings, and a 42"+ wheelbase, then go from there. There is nothing wrong with a long, flat, wide sled. Don't worry about making your first sled regulation. It's actually a great learning experience both in building and riding. I attached an early sled I made. It's flat, and has a piece of oak screwed to the bottom, as well as some bondo for support. The leg rest (not a footrest) is 3/4" aluminum, and the Ghetto-Handles are handrail supports from Home Depot. It rode great, and while riding it I could design my next luge in my head. There's no need to go through the frustration of designing a drop on your first sled, and your calfs can support themselves, go pegless.

[bombhills114]

i'd suggest making a standard shape, that way you don't have to mess around with anything

[Jraice]

The board I had in mind is 48" long by 12" wide... (I am using bigzigs and 180mm trucks dont want it much wider).... Front is rounded, back half goes down to 5" (kind like a very flat blunt pintail shape). Back truck is mounted 1/2" from the back, front truck is 10.5"s... I think the wheelbase is around 33"s...

So you think make bigger? I just want a simple flat piece of wood style buttboard... I could go a LITTLE bigger but dont want anything insane... Just looking for a similar feeling to riding my standup deck on my @$$ but with that extra 10"s in front to support my legs... But I wouldnt mind a little more wheelbase... Just thought using a 12" by 48" piece of wood would make it that much easier to do...

So yeah should I make it a bit longer? I have heard the lott design I am making works really well and I think it would be a good start, no?

So yeah any answers to my question on setup for the trucks? And is 3/4" birch PW a good material for a flat deck?

Thanks guys, I need to go head to the skate shop on my stand up but I think ill be laying down for any and all downhill parts of the ride ... Its such an amazing feeling, even at lower speeds... I love how easy stopping/slowing is to.

[bgh gierco]

The most expensive parts are the trucks, bushings, hardware, bearings, and wheels that you can remove and use on your next design. It's a learning experience, just build it and go out riding. I just found it difficult to set up the short wheelbase of a buttboard (I had to ask for truck setup help in the thread "Newbie buttboard question"). If you do want a good 13-ply buttboard, these guys will custom cut a 48x12 piece of baltic birch from the 3/4x12x60... http://www.woodnshop.com/hardwood/Ba...ch_Plywood.htm If you use 7-ply, some epoxy/fiberglass will make it stiff enough.I've never used crails or BigZigs, but I've heard they're both excellent. You'll want some stiff bushings. Best advice I can give though, pick up Lott's "Streetluge Survival Guide". It's like an owners manual for streetluge. It isn't just for seasoned pro's, it has great advice for beginners and novices on a budget!

[Jraice]

Thanks...

I am going to need to do a lot of experiements! Lott himself recommends 52.5 degree truck angle, front and back, with same bushings, for grip... He says he keeps his weight centered and the high turning angle will result in more turn with less lean, which he says translates to stability.

I was thinking 52.5 degree front and 37.5 degree back with harder back bushings... but Ill try both... I would just feel more comfortable with that because I dont need the extra grip, I do more fast straight bombs with sweepers... And mentally having a dewedged back truck seems more stable.

I will eventually pick that book up, as well as the 101 video... But my first purchase is going to be some of those nofuel racing pads...

I am not worried about the wheelbase anymore really, I have been riding my 32" wheelbase avenger as a buttboard and it feels fine at moderate speeds... I think with proper weight distribution (with a real buttboard) ill be able to take it much faster...

[LakeZeroLuge]

Having built about 5 of these things, I've found the tightest wheelbase I would go is 42". What I do for my friends and I is put the front trucks right under your thighs/butt, and the rear trucks right behind your head. We all use R2's 180 and don't bother to wedge, but we aren't going any crazy speeds. Stiff bushings are good advice too. Sorry if this has been a straight rehash of what has already been said, too lazy to read all the other comments.

[Jraice]

Originally Posted by LakeZeroLuge

Having built about 5 of these things, I've found the tightest wheelbase I would go is 42". What I do for my friends and I is put the front trucks right under your thighs/butt, and the rear trucks right behind your head. We all use R2's 180 and don't bother to wedge, but we aren't going any crazy speeds. Stiff bushings are good advice too. Sorry if this has been a straight rehash of what has already been said, too lazy to read all the other comments.

Thanks... So you have a 48" luge with a 42" wheelbase...

Maybe I should consider making the wheelbase a little longer... But every inch added in wheelbase is an inch taken away in leg support... And if more wheeblase is really that necessary, wouldnt lott have had more then 33"s?

Keep the ideas coming... Perhaps Ill just lay down and mark my head and thighs... If its not enough leg support I can always re-drill the holes...

Thanks

[cosmiccase]

So let me get this straight...You want a luge to hit the "more techy" runs in your town? Dude grab your damn speedboard and go learn to throw a foot down at high speeds or speed check around a corner. Maybe learn to pendy? No wonder you cant hit techy runs, you don't even have the basic fundamentals of speedboarding down yet.

[Jraice]

Originally Posted by cosmiccase

So let me get this straight...You want a luge to hit the "more techy" runs in your town? Dude grab your damn speedboard and go learn to throw a foot down at high speeds or speed check around a corner. Maybe learn to pendy? No wonder you cant hit techy runs, you don't even have the basic fundamentals of speedboarding down yet.

I actually do have all the basics and can pendy just fine...

I just found after riding my topmount as a luge that I think it is really what I could get into even more... The sensation is just SOOO much more fun... I love it...

I did throw that in there but the real reason I want to make a buttboard is well because its $##@in' fun to ride and I cant keep using my speedboard as a luge forever...

So I guess Ill start with the basic design setup similarly to a speedboard (by basic I mean stock Lott dimensions) and perhaps try out an increased wheelbase...

Keep any more tips coming!