So why is the A Hess skate key not out dated?

**GriffinSk8** · 07-10-2009 10:49 AM

Why is it that a skate key that came out in the 70's is still working for new skateboards? It might not look as cool as the new ones but it still works and feels good on your hand. The skate tool should be rated on function and not on how cool it looks. I have a little collection of the other tools and I use one all the time and that is the A Hess skate key. Here is why I think that this tool cannot be out dated. There's four side on it. A 3/4" open wrench a flat head. Two socket wrenches that are still used in all skate boards today. The ring around on the one side is the wheel wrench the other is the king pin nut side. This tool has helped me with over three hundred skateboards from 1950's all the way to today's newer boards and will not fail on me. The older tools has a deeper socket pocket than newer tools. This makes it easier to use because the tool has room for the next size up to fit. You can get a lot of torque out this tool with just using your hand to work a bad rusty nut loose. There are times I will use an oil to help me to work out that rust and a rubber mallet to tap the tool and get an old nut loose. The flat head is good for the bushings that are frozen on the king pin cup and cannot come loose. I know that most of you have never used one and that is fine. There's more to this tool than you think. Just because it is old dues not mean it is broken.
GSK8

**AfroRider21** · 07-10-2009 11:53 AM

i dont use skate tools. screw driver and the wrench that doesnt need to come off the nut (no clue what thats called). works pretty efficiently to me. but do they still sell/make that tool? i could use one for quick tune ups

**GriffinSk8** · 07-10-2009 03:27 PM

Originally Posted by AfroRider21

i dont use skate tools. screw driver and the wrench that doesnt need to come off the nut (no clue what thats called). works pretty efficiently to me. but do they still sell/make that tool? i could use one for quick tune ups

Sell yes, Make no. Magnets work great and I use one on mine all the time. It just helps in keeping the tool safe and nearby when you need it. Also will hold on to your parts when you are working.

**sk8norcal** · 07-10-2009 09:04 PM

A Hess ??

edit:
nvmd, the Elephant tool...

no way, unit tools are better...

usually, i prefer using full size tools... pocket tools are always a compromise..

**Hot Wheels** · 07-11-2009 05:09 PM

I still use my Elephant tool from 1975, frequently. I really like it
and it has held up well. The only time I don't like it is when I slam
with it in my pocket and get a bruise on the thigh.

_________

**msk** · 07-11-2009 08:46 PM

Originally Posted by sk8norcal

usually, i prefer using full size tools... pocket tools are always a compromise..

It's not like changing wheels or adjusting your kingpin requires a lot of leverage...

One of the main causes of damaged bearing shields/seals is the socket hitting them when turning the axle nut. Standard sockets are too deep, and even many skate tools are as well. The Elephant Wrench, since it was originally designed for loose ball bearings, doesn't have that problem, because the 1/2" socket was designed to not touch the 9/16" adjustable cone that was behind the axle nut. Turned out to be a perfect design when precision bearings replaced loose balls. That's the main reason I still use mine from '75...

**sk8norcal** · 07-11-2009 09:46 PM

Originally Posted by msk

It's not like changing wheels or adjusting your kingpin requires a lot of leverage...

.

not leverage, speed and ergonomics...

for kingpin nut adjustment, a unit tool works fine.. (actually I keep a 9/16" wrench around, some of my older indies have clearance problem with unit tool)
but for bushing replacement,
wheel change
tighten deck bolts and nuts,
full size tools work way better... especially when putting together a setup..

**GriffinSk8** · 07-12-2009 09:09 AM

Good hand positions. For that fine work. I like to get the tightness just down to a hair tight using the elephant tool. I can feel just how tight the nut is and than back off if it is a little to tight.

The weapon

**GriffinSk8** · 07-13-2009 11:33 AM

How you fix and adjust old school trucks. Most people can not figure out how to work on older trucks. When I get them the trucks are flopping around on the bushings but the trucks are so loose that if you tried to ride them you would kill your self doing so. The problem is most people try to work on the king pin and not the nut underneath the bottom bushing cup. I think people do not understand clockwise and counterclockwise are working together on these trucks. You need to do both to tighten and loosen the trucks. It's a little tricky at first but you can do it.

**Wells** · 07-13-2009 11:42 AM

I'm all about the Fix Stix/screwdriver combo. I've had mine since '98.

**Hot Wheels** · 07-13-2009 09:18 PM

Originally Posted by Wells

I'm all about the Fix Stix/screwdriver combo. I've had mine since '98.

I would hate to fall with that in my pocket

_____________

**Daniel M.** · 07-13-2009 09:24 PM

Carver pipewrench is pretty sweet for on the go of all sorts.

**GriffinSk8** · 07-14-2009 09:18 AM

I used to own a fix stix. I snapped off one side of the socket on a rusty nut. Cast aluminum is to soft for a tool. The elephant tool will never brake. It's made from harden steel.

**rafaplaysguitar** · 07-14-2009 09:24 AM

**Looptail** · 07-14-2009 09:41 AM

Carver pipe-wrench for me.

(Though when I try to tweak some ACS 580s later, I'll probably be wanting the Elephant wrench again)

**enemy combatant** · 07-14-2009 10:01 AM

Originally Posted by GriffinSk8

I think people do not understand clockwise and counterclockwise are working together on these trucks. You need to do both to tighten and loosen the trucks.

Nope. The bottom nut next to the baseplate is a lock nut. It also needs to be tightened down clockwise in order to keep the kingpin from loosening. In order to adjust the tightness of the trucks you must back the lock nut off from the baseplate (counter clockwise) just enough to loosen the kingpin and then while holding the lock nut steady, adjust the kingpin (clockwise for tightening, counter clockwise for loosening.)

When you have the desired tightness you must then tighten the lock nut (clockwise) against the baseplate.

PS - Sims Bowl Riders have to be some of the worst wheels ever produced. They don't grip for sh*t while still being slow as hell. But then most wide hard wheels are slow (96a NoSkools, 95a Tunnel Rocks, etc...)

**Hot Wheels** · 07-14-2009 03:19 PM

Originally Posted by enemy combatant

Nope. The bottom nut next to the baseplate is a lock nut. It also needs to be tightened down clockwise in order to keep the kingpin from loosening. In order to adjust the tightness of the trucks you must back the lock nut off from the baseplate (counter clockwise) just enough to loosen the kingpin and then while holding the lock nut steady, adjust the kingpin (clockwise for tightening, counter clockwise for loosening.)

When you have the desired tightness you must then tighten the lock nut (clockwise) against the baseplate.

PS - Sims Bowl Riders have to be some of the worst wheels ever produced. They don't grip for sh*t while still being slow as hell. But then most wide hard wheels are slow (96a NoSkools, 95a Tunnel Rocks, etc...)

All true EC

Thanks to Tracker for coming out with a truck that didn't have that
extra baseplate nut! Or was it someone else?

Also, I wish someone would make a hard, fast, wide wheel, but
I have tried many, they all lack speed. Even tried the Gyro's with
the fancy cores, still slow.

_____________

**GriffinSk8** · 07-14-2009 08:35 PM

Originally Posted by enemy combatant

Nope. The bottom nut next to the baseplate is a lock nut. It also needs to be tightened down clockwise in order to keep the kingpin from loosening. In order to adjust the tightness of the trucks you must back the lock nut off from the baseplate (counter clockwise) just enough to loosen the kingpin and then while holding the lock nut steady, adjust the kingpin (clockwise for tightening, counter clockwise for loosening.)

When you have the desired tightness you must then tighten the lock nut (clockwise) against the baseplate.

PS - Sims Bowl Riders have to be some of the worst wheels ever produced. They don't grip for sh*t while still being slow as hell. But then most wide hard wheels are slow (96a NoSkools, 95a Tunnel Rocks, etc...)

DUH! I know the fact is other people do not know the difference with the lock nut and clockwise and counter clockwise. Yes you told them the way to work it and that is great. I just did not have time.

**msk** · 07-14-2009 10:19 PM

Originally Posted by Hot Wheels

Thanks to Tracker for coming out with a truck that didn't have that
extra baseplate nut! Or was it someone else?

That was Tracker.

The original Lazers, while still using the jam nut against the baseplate, had a steel insert in the baseplate to prevent the wobbling and stripping that occurred when the nut got loose. But they eventually went to a Tracker-style kingpin...

**enemy combatant** · 07-14-2009 10:21 PM

Originally Posted by GriffinSk8

Yes you told them the way to work it and that is great.

I forgot to mention that the flat and thin open end wrench on the Hess skate key you show is invaluable for adjusting some of these lock nut trucks because they often come with very short shallow depth lock nuts that are impossible to get a grip on with regular (thick) open end or crescent wrenches.