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  1. #41
    Stoked! shredthegnar207's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    thanks man that is what i was asking


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  3. #42
    Concrete Kahuna virx67's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    Quote Originally Posted by shredthegnar207 View Post
    thanks man that is what i was asking
    Glad to help.

  4. #43
    Addicted Cruiser Liam's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    Cutting cross grain makes the board weaker though, right?

  5. #44
    Stoked! shredthegnar207's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    How many plys of 1/8th inch BB should i use for a board 38-40in with a little flex when the person weighs about 215lbs?

  6. #45
    Concrete Kahuna virx67's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    Quote Originally Posted by Liam View Post
    Cutting cross grain makes the board weaker though, right?
    What do you mean? Could rephrase that?
    Quote Originally Posted by shredthegnar207 View Post
    How many plys of 1/8th inch BB should i use for a board 38-40in with a little flex when the person weighs about 215lbs?
    With a wheelbase of about 30", 4 or 5 layers. 4 for more flex, 5 for less.

  7. #46
    Addicted Cruiser sk8terdp's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    maybe someone can help me out,

    I am getting in to some board building and i was wondering what the buiness is with crossing he grain instead of just going all vertical.
    Looking for a custom made longboard?
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  8. #47
    Concrete Kahuna virx67's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    Quote Originally Posted by sk8terdp View Post
    maybe someone can help me out,

    I am getting in to some board building and i was wondering what the buiness is with crossing he grain instead of just going all vertical.
    Basically, in plywood (such as Baltic Birch,) there are three plies in 1/8" thick. There are two plies that go lengthwise, and 1 that goes perpendicular to the rest. The perpendicular is the cross ply. If you are using plywood, you don't need to worry about cross plies.

  9. #48
    Addicted Cruiser sk8terdp's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    Quote Originally Posted by virx67 View Post
    Basically, in plywood (such as Baltic Birch,) there are three plies in 1/8" thick. There are two plies that go lengthwise, and 1 that goes perpendicular to the rest. The perpendicular is the cross ply. If you are using plywood, you don't need to worry about cross plies.
    what if i was using 1/16? and if i was going to use 1/8 would i just use half as many plies as i would with 1/16?
    Looking for a custom made longboard?
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  10. #49
    Concrete Kahuna Ted's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    Quote Originally Posted by sk8terdp View Post
    what if i was using 1/16? and if i was going to use 1/8 would i just use half as many plies as i would with 1/16?
    1/8th" baltic birch is a plywood made up of 3 layers of veneer. A veneer is a single slice of wood. The characteristic of boards built with the two materials vary greatly.

    You will always have more control over the flex of a board made from single layers of veneer.
    Typically veneered boards are made with 7 layers where 5 are longrain and 2 are crossgrain. If you want a stiffer board you add another layer of longrain to the stack.

    With Baltic birch you don't have as much control because you are always adding crossgrain to the stack. Because of this a 5/8th" Baltic Birch board is not going to be as stiff as a 5/8th" veneered board with a stack of 5 long, two cross.

    Another determining factor that affects board strength and flex is the number of glue lines you board has during the glue up. A 1/2" board that uses a thicker material, lets say 1/8th" will only have 3 glue lines whereas a board that uses 1/16" material will have 7 glue lines. This will make a big difference with how the finished board feels.

    Answering your question also depends on the length of the board, the amount of concave you are designing into it and how heavy the rider is.

    I think it is very difficult to compare board characteristic using a prelaminated material opposed to a single sliced material. Buy some 1/8th birch and make a 4 or 5 layer deck and see how it feels. If its not right. Add another layer.

    Ted from Roarockit
    ROAROCKIT

    TOLL FREE NUMBER FOR USA AND CANADA
    1 888 857 7790

    GREAT PRICES ON MAPLE, BIRCH AND BAMBOO VENEERS

    Innovative Tools for Boardbuilding
    NEW 3 STEP DROP THROUGH TEMPLATE
    DOUBLE BEARING ROUTER BIT SPECIFICALLY MADE FOR ROUNDING SKATEBOARDS

    Check us out at Roarockit.ca in Canada - Roarockit.com in USA - Roarockit.eu in Europe
    - Roarockit.co.uk in the United Kingdom - Australianskateboardkits.com in Australia

    We are a Social Minded, 100% Boardbuilding Company

  11. #50
    Addicted Cruiser clashofphish's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    Quote Originally Posted by Vitiell0 View Post
    hey guys i heard that doing a clear coat of varnish would crack off if the board was too flexy?
    I don't have a ton of experience with different finishes - but I can tell you that I have used spray polycrylic on the underside of my FlexDex. The layer of of crylic is really thin, but it definitely does not show any signs of chipping off/cracking even with the flexiness of an all fiberglass board.

    Quote Originally Posted by Vitiell0 View Post
    varnish or is there something better to do it with that will give me that nice shiny finish im looking for
    I hate to be the one to say it - Learn to Use the Search Function. There are a ton of threads on here talking about finish. Hell, read back through this very thread and there is talk of the topic. There is so much info on Silverfish about board building it has kept me busy reading for days. You can learn a lot if you know how to SEARCH and are willing to read.
    Enough of my rant - from what I've read, a polished up epoxy finish is the most durable and protective. But it takes a lot of patients and elbow grease to get it polished up to a mirror finish. In my opinion (experience lacking in board building, but I've done a lot of other wood work) varnish will work to cover your board, but will not protect it as much as epoxy. Varnish is not very strong - it was never intended for use on something you are going to throw around. Also, a water based varnish (like polycrylic) will not be super water protective. Better than nothing though.

  12. #51
    Addicted Cruiser clashofphish's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    I posted this in another thread, but thought that it might be useful to others. Thus, I'm putting it on the sticky:

    West systems (and another site I stumbled upon) has some quality information on dying epoxy. Especially interesting that all of the color additives they tested (at 2%-5% of solution) did not significantly change the properties of the cured epoxy. I was a painter long before any of my other hobbies, and I think it would be really fun to try producing a graphic with dyed epoxy alone. At least as an experiment into another approach to creating protected graphics.
    http://www.sydneywoodturners.com.au/...ues/epoxy.html
    or
    http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...21pigments.pdf

  13. #52
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    Another determining factor that affects board strength and flex is the number of glue lines you board has during the glue up. A 1/2" board that uses a thicker material, lets say 1/8th" will only have 3 glue lines whereas a board that uses 1/16" material will have 7 glue lines. This will make a big difference with how the finished board feels.
    Baltic Birch plies individually are 1/32, and 3 come glued together, which means that when you glue a 5/8th inch deck with Baltic Birch, you get 4 of your own glue lines, and 10 more that are already there, by the manufacture. These glue lines are always very thin and strong glue lines. The reason you can tell they are strong, is because when you snap a strip of it, or 4 strips glued together, your breaks never create delamination. The break occurs in the wood, all along the same line.

    5 ply baltic Birch boards, being 5/8 thick are not by rule of thumb going to be flexier than its maple 10 ply counterpart.

  14. #53
    We build your board Concrete Kahuna AM Wood Skateboard Co's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    Figured I'd throw this in here before it gets lost.

    Cross grain VS Long grain in a BB laminated board.
    http://www.silverfishlongboarding.co...ation-end.html

  15. #54
    Concrete Kahuna Ted's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    Quote Originally Posted by Drang Longboards View Post
    Baltic Birch plies individually are 1/32, and 3 come glued together, which means that when you glue a 5/8th inch deck with Baltic Birch, you get 4 of your own glue lines, and 10 more that are already there, by the manufacture. These glue lines are always very thin and strong glue lines. The reason you can tell they are strong, is because when you snap a strip of it, or 4 strips glued together, your breaks never create delamination. The break occurs in the wood, all along the same line.

    5 ply baltic Birch boards, being 5/8 thick are not by rule of thumb going to be flexier than its maple 10 ply counterpart.
    Composite strength using wood is all about the number of laminations you can add to your stack of material. A 5/8" thick stack of 1/8th material is going to be weaker than a stack of 1/32 material stacked and glued to the same hight. The more laminations you have the stronger the material will be.

    When you laminate one sheet of veneer on top of another, it's the difference in length between the curvature of the top sheet to the curvature of the bottom sheet that allows it to maintain its shape and strength. More laminations and the stronger the sheer strength of the glue = more strength.

    Unfortunately with material like Baltic Birch, because they are already a laminate are more ridged than same thicknessed pieces of solid wood , When laminated into a 3 dimensional form the rigidity of the material works against its laminar strength. Stiff materials continue to pushing against the lamination even after being glued. They wants to return to their original shape.

    If we had a choice between 1/8 baltic birch plywood and 1/16" baltic birch plywood to build a board with what would you choose?

    If we had a choice between a stronger material over a weaker material for building boards, what would you choose?

    There are four good reasons why I would recommend building boards using Baltic Birch and I do this almost daily. It is easy to work with, it is accessible. it is relatively cheap and it makes a fine board. However it has its limitations and there are plenty of other materials out there that work better.

    It's always a breath of fresh air here when someone posts an interesting vertical lam, bamboo or composite board or or pushes the limit with interesting shapes or alternative materials.

    Here is a new board I just built.
    It's a 1" dropped bamboo board.
    1/8 bamboo - 1/16" maple - 1/8 bamboo and carbon top and bottom.
    It was double vacuum bagged in one pressing. One bag to pull the carbon into slots I cut in the bamboo (top and bottom) and the outer bag to bend it around the mold.

    Ted

    Last edited by Ted; 03-31-2011 at 04:36 PM.
    ROAROCKIT

    TOLL FREE NUMBER FOR USA AND CANADA
    1 888 857 7790

    GREAT PRICES ON MAPLE, BIRCH AND BAMBOO VENEERS

    Innovative Tools for Boardbuilding
    NEW 3 STEP DROP THROUGH TEMPLATE
    DOUBLE BEARING ROUTER BIT SPECIFICALLY MADE FOR ROUNDING SKATEBOARDS

    Check us out at Roarockit.ca in Canada - Roarockit.com in USA - Roarockit.eu in Europe
    - Roarockit.co.uk in the United Kingdom - Australianskateboardkits.com in Australia

    We are a Social Minded, 100% Boardbuilding Company

  16. #55
    Addicted Cruiser sk8terdp's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    Me and my friend are getting in to board building and well i was wondering if you could give me the low down on painting them. We painted my friends and my board and it turned out pretty nice. but it wasnt that shiny and my clear coat is pealing off. I used this clear coat in a paint can and used around 6 layers of that. but i never wetsanded or sanded at all. Also i just want to learn how to get a cool base color, maybe some fades and stripes later on, of a a cool color, such as glow in the dark or maybe a vibrant cool color, and apply it to our decks and then make them really shiny. also whats the deal with the flake stuff? how do i wetsand? i used spray paint on my deck is that good? what do you use? what do you use to get the grainy colored wood affect? what type of clear coat should i use and how do i apply it?

    sorry for that huge wall of text but i am utterly confused and would love some help
    Looking for a custom made longboard?
    https://www.facebook.com/DanDanLongboards

  17. #56
    Concrete Kahuna footballplayerchris's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    Quote Originally Posted by Ted View Post

    ZOMG!!!!!!!!!! So sexy!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Quote Originally Posted by tuarenbeard View Post
    get chicks, make babies, teach em to board.. and so on.
    Quiver:

    Drang Dancer 60 #001 - The first 60" dancer made by Drang
    Earthwing Scavenger
    Churchill Squaretail
    Earthwing Hoopty 34

  18. #57
    Concrete Kahuna virx67's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    Quote Originally Posted by sk8terdp View Post
    Me and my friend are getting in to board building and well i was wondering if you could give me the low down on painting them. We painted my friends and my board and it turned out pretty nice. but it wasnt that shiny and my clear coat is pealing off. I used this clear coat in a paint can and used around 6 layers of that. but i never wetsanded or sanded at all. Also i just want to learn how to get a cool base color, maybe some fades and stripes later on, of a a cool color, such as glow in the dark or maybe a vibrant cool color, and apply it to our decks and then make them really shiny. also whats the deal with the flake stuff? how do i wetsand? i used spray paint on my deck is that good? what do you use? what do you use to get the grainy colored wood affect? what type of clear coat should i use and how do i apply it?

    sorry for that huge wall of text but i am utterly confused and would love some help
    I've used spray paint before, with an oil based varnish. It worked out quite nicely. I believe I used Rusteolum. What I did was put down 2-3 layers of varnish, then spray painted 3 layers on top of that. I then finished with 2 layers of clear coat.

    Here's an example of the result:


    The peeling and flaking was probably due to incompatible paint mediums, like using a oil based spray paint and using a water based finish. I used oil based varnish and spray paint (I believe it was oil based, but it is extremely hard to find out what type of paint is in the can.)

  19. #58
    Concrete Kahuna virx67's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    Just out of curiosity, what is the general rule for bending a 1" drop in Baltic birch? I remember seeing it a while ago, but searching hasn't really helped me. Isn't it like 1" over 3"?

  20. #59
    Addicted Cruiser Liam's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    i did one inch over 2. i think you could do one inch over one inch.

  21. #60
    Concrete Kahuna virx67's Avatar
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    Default Re: Library of Board-Building Tips, Resources & Ideas

    Quote Originally Posted by Liam View Post
    i did one inch over 2. i think you could do one inch over one inch.
    sounds good. I'll probably do that then.

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